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So my daughters 2000 CRV started misbehaving the other week. History - owned from new, 271,000 odd miles, meticulously maintained entirely by me. Never had a running problem. Still runs like new. It stalled while running, she pulled over, it restarted fine. Towed home just in case. I ran it for 10 miles it did the same to me. Again, no warning, no stumble just cut out. It restarted fine and ran fine all the way home. Checked for codes - nothing. Checked for obvious stuff - nothing. So, I replaced the ignition switch (even though it did not stall when key was jiggled) and the main relay as a matter of course to eliminate the most common causes. Stalled on the next test run. As it always restarts, diagnosis is almost impossible. I hate the trial and error approach. Anyone suggest the next step.....distributor.....crankshaft pos sensor.....fuel pump....ecm?
 

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Is it a hard starter when warm as well? But good when cold?
Sure you can check the fuel pressure, but take a look at the EGR. If clogged it can create some of the symptoms you talk.
 

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I joined today to post similar, my wife and I have 227k 2001 EX that recently had O/C, plugs, & wires changed, a very good mechanic shop gave it a clean bill of health before we set out on a vacation earlier this week. What happens is unexpectedly the engine sputters as if running on 3 cylinders, and the engine light comes on, I usually immediately bump it to neutral, rev the engine and it will then idle as expected, but I feel I'm pushing our luck, and it happens so infrequently, surly others have had this problem, I'll check the "EGR", but sheepishly will 1st need to research what an EGR is...1 moment, ok, i see it is an Exhaust Gas Reticulation device...I've also re-seated the plug wires, thinking they were not connecting good - any ideas? I'll continue to research here...advance thanks, Jayindy
 

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Rocky, thanks for reply. Until tonight, the three times it has cut-out, it has restarted almost immediately. It has allways happened when fully wamed up. Fiddling with it tonight, it cut out again when warmed up. This time would not restart....yeah! Pulled a plug lead and struck in a spare spark plug. No spark! Narrows it down to a failing ignitor or coil I think, probably heat related as you suggest. It did restart easily about 5 minutes later. So, at 271,000 miles I think an entire new distributor is my best bet as she's still got a lot good of miles left in her. Will report if successful.
 

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If your CEL (check engine light) comes on for any reason, there will be stored error codes that can be read. If you don't have a code reader, pop into Oreillys or Autozone. They will read the codes for free. Error code(s) should help with initial diagnosis. Symptoms could any number of things and intermittent problems are the hardest to solve of course.
 

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So, just a follow up on my diagnosis/repairs. Put in an entire new distributor - duralast gold, excellent quality - half the price of Honda. Straight swap, just need to be careful aligning the rotor arm. Take pictures as you disassemble/reassemble. Now running as normal. Took old distributor apart and sure enough the coil had been arcing (white/gray burn marks on casing) presumably only when hot and intermittently. So, unless in dies again in the near future, I am declaring a success. Hope this helps someone else with a similar problem.
 

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So, just a follow up on my diagnosis/repairs. Put in an entire new distributor - duralast gold, excellent quality - half the price of Honda. Straight swap, just need to be careful aligning the rotor arm. Take pictures as you disassemble/reassemble. Now running as normal. Took old distributor apart and sure enough the coil had been arcing (white/gray burn marks on casing) presumably only when hot and intermittently. So, unless in dies again in the near future, I am declaring a success. Hope this helps someone else with a similar problem.
There is also an igniter (electronic points) in the distributor that will usually fail when it gets hot. A failing coil will usually cause hard starting because of a weak spark.
Both the ignition coil and igniter are known to be suspect in that vintage CRV.
Here is a link to a good read on that vintage CRV: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1

Buffalo4
 

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I joined today to post similar, my wife and I have 227k 2001 EX that recently had O/C, plugs, & wires changed, a very good mechanic shop gave it a clean bill of health before we set out on a vacation earlier this week. What happens is unexpectedly the engine sputters as if running on 3 cylinders, and the engine light comes on, I usually immediately bump it to neutral, rev the engine and it will then idle as expected, but I feel I'm pushing our luck, and it happens so infrequently, surly others have had this problem, I'll check the "EGR", but sheepishly will 1st need to research what an EGR is...1 moment, ok, i see it is an Exhaust Gas Reticulation device...I've also re-seated the plug wires, thinking they were not connecting good - any ideas? I'll continue to research here...advance thanks, Jayindy
A couple of things may be the fuel filter (on the firewall passenger side- pretty easy to replace) and the type of spark plug. Usually NGK spark plugs work the best. Bosch spark plugs can cause problems with the early CRVs'.
NGK 4291 ZFR6F-11 V-Power Plug . It is a copper core spark plug and low cost. They have a recommended change interval of aprox 30k miles.
Perhaps you should start your own post for possibly more responses and the fix.
Buffalo4
PS: There should be code stored in the computer. Stop at an AutoZone, etc who will usually read it for free and post back what the code number is.
 

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Ok I've been getting more familiar with this site, sorry to high-jack keefnheavs original post. We made it back from vacation today w/o any more "sputtering" problems on our now 227k 2001 EX CRV. I will start looking thru our repair receipts to see when my fuel filter was last replaced, the make of the spark plugs we put in last, and get the engine codes from autozone and get back here.

I'm found the hills on I65 between Lafayette, IN and Montgomery AL were a bit challenging for our 146hp 2.0L engine - I found myself in the slow lane, downshifted, and max'd at about 65mph - I simply could not keep 70mph on most hills - the cruise worked fine and a couple times did a double downshift - I had to kill the cruise control - I just could not bear the high RPM noise & stress I felt I was putting it thru.
 
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