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I have a 2000 CRV with about ~97,000 miles that we bought about 5 years ago with 43K. It has been a great car. We have really only had to do routine maintenance at 60 and 90K which we had done at 2 different Honda dealerships (we moved). At the 90K service our "new" dealer suggested we have the valves adjusted on the car. I was a little suspicious as the previous dealer said nothing about this but, I agreed as I have been very religious with
maintenance. (My "old" dealer sticks by this and as of yesterday said the information in the manual about valve adjustment at 105K is still recommended by Honda.)

This was about 6 months ago. About 1 month ago the check engine light came on, but the car seemed to run fine. As we were going to drive out of state the next day, I took the car to a local independent mechanic because the dealer is ~40 miles away. He diagnosed a #1 cylinder misfire code, and replaced the distributor cap and spark plug wires. Anyway, about 400 miles
into our trip the light comes on again and this time I take the car to the nearest Honda dealer (this is the 3rd one).

The diagnosis (with multiple cylinder misfires) was that 5 of the exhaust valves were "very tight" and needed to be adjusted. The service rep told me that after the valves were adjusted the light may never come back on,
but if it did then I would probably have to replace the head, which as you know is very expensive. However, she also confided that Honda would probably help with the cost if I have been a "loyal" customer.

After we returned from vacation I decided I would drive the car awhile and see if the check engine light would come back on. After about 1500 miles the light has not come back on and the car run's fine, but I decided to call my local dealer and tell him what happened. On the phone he acknowledged this problem exists and that they replace 3-4 heads a year on this model. He then told me to bring the car in for a compression test. The test came back great with 180 PSI in all cylinders.

I also told my local dealer that I was a little concerned that there may be a problem with the head in the future and asked what had been done for his customers in the past. The service manager got kind of indignant about this and claimed that Honda has not acknowledged any problem and none of his customers with this problem had received any assistance from Honda once the warranty expired. I should say I had a 7 year, 100k warranty that expired ~6 months ago.

I think the compression test means that my cylinder head is okay? Right?
My feeling is that my local dealer did not adjust the valves correctly and within ~8000 miles the valves went out of adjustment enough to cause the engine misfire and trigger the check engine light?

Of course, my local dealer will not admit anything. I remembered when I initially called he had asked me if I had bought the car new, which seemed kind of irrelevant at the time. But now I am wondering if "loyal" customer means bought the car new and have all the service done there too? It also makes me think my local dealer lied about nobody receiving financial help, otherwise why would he ask me if I bought the car new?

I am wondering if there is any advantage to contacting Honda now to possibly help in the future, or am I just wasting my time as everything seems to check out okay and there doesn't seem to be any current problem?

Do you think there is anything I can do now to help myself in the future if there is a problem, especially as we are moving again?

My only potential ace-in-the-hole is that I got this car from my mother in law, who has bought at least 5 cars from this same dealer in the last 20 years and is in the market for a new one. In addition, the salesman is the wife of the dealership owner.
 

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It sounds like you lucked out and caught your valve problem before any real damage could be done. A correctly performed compression test is usually definitive. Stay after your valve adjustment, however. The B20B engine likes valve clearance checks/adjustments every 30,000 miles, NOT the 105,000 miles indicated in the maintenance schedule. This is a long running issue that is discussed in many threads throughout this and other CR-V forums. Do a search of the forum if you wish further information.
 

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When should you have the valves adjusted and what are some symptoms that they need to be adjusted?


It sounds like you lucked out and caught your valve problem before any real damage could be done. A correctly performed compression test is usually definitive. Stay after your valve adjustment, however. The B20B engine likes valve clearance checks/adjustments every 30,000 miles, NOT the 105,000 miles indicated in the maintenance schedule. This is a long running issue that is discussed in many threads throughout this and other CR-V forums. Do a search of the forum if you wish further information.
 

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never mind i didnt catch myself, for some reason i was thinking the junker V i had was a 98, but it was a 99, becuase now i remember 96( i think, it was not a US model) to 98 used B20b, and the 99-01 has the B20z2


ill give one of our code tech savvy members a e-cookie if they find out what the Z2 means in the engine code.
 

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Mazda's don't have names... they zoom zoom with creepy boys... in suits... ever noticed Mazda can't name a car? Neither can BMW, and Speed1, speed3, etc don't count as names. Only one I ever heard of with a name is the Miata, but that's even an MX5 or something.

"B20Z" stands for "Because 20 people wanted it, we made it ZOOM!"
Mystery solved, I'll take that paycheck now.;)



 

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Having the same problem - I think.

During this past winter our CR-V (90k miles) would stall out whenever pressing the brakes or going into nuetral with the AC on. If we let it warm up before driving, everything was OK. If there was warmer weather, there'd be no issue.

It started to get a bit more frequent after about a month so I took it to our mechanic (independant). Told him what was going on & felt it may be the IAC valve since there was no check engine light & it was just the engine stalling. He was thinking the same way & inspected it & cleaned it out & popped it back in. There was no change so he suggested to take it to the dealership & get their feedback & let him know what they say.

Before taking it to the dealer, I read that there needs to be a valve adjustment on the 2000 CR-V before the recommeded 105k in the manual & that there had been issues with cars stalling out & that the valve adjustment fixed it. So I took it to the dealer & had them adjust the valves. It ran okay for about a week & then the stalling started again. We took it back to the dealer & told them that the car was stalling out even more since the valve adjustment. So the dealer took the car & had it for 3 days & told me it needed a tune-up to fix the stalling issue. I got pretty upset b/c if was something a tune-up would fix it meant it was something with the distributor, plugs, or wires & that would've caused the check engine light to come on.

So about 2 hours later the service department manager called & said he disagreed with the initial assessment I was given & had his master technician look at it. He told me that a bolt had rusted off the distributor causing it to come out of place thus making the idle speed out of whack & the stalling. He said he could replace the bolt & reset the distributor but also recommended the tune-up using all Honda parts (total of over $1400). I asked it the car was running safely & he said yes. I told him I'd just take it back to our mechanic b/c we had a tune-up less than 11 months ago & they warranty all tune-ups & parts for 12 months. The dealer said okay.

So we take the car back to the mechanic & the replace all the tune-up parts (cap, rotor, wires, & plugs). While they had the car I had them replace the water pump & timing belt b/c the car was now at 101k & we were about to drive from Chicago down to NC. After we got the car back the stalling had stopped but it still seemed to dip a bit low (around 300rpms) so they had me bring it back to adjust the idle speed. Off to NC we go!

In the middle of the West Virginia mountains going uphill (of course) the car sort of jolts & I can see that it's having a tough time getting up the mountain. And the check engine light comes on. We get off on the first exit (not even 1/4 mile away) & they just happened to have a service center on the corner. I thought we were unbelievably lucky. So we take it in (mind you in the middle of West Virginia) & they had limited resources but they did have an old code reader (some Snap-On model that just spit out the code numbers). I had the owner of that shop get on the phone with our mechanic after talking to our guy back home letting him know what happened. Our mechanic felt that the distributor was gone as well as the owner of the shop in WV. So we leave our car in West Virginia & get a rental (we had a flight leaving for mexico the next morning @ 6am). Just before leaving mexico, I call the shop in WV & the owner tells me the distributor was replaced & he had to adjust the idle timing.

so we pick up the car after it had been in the shop in WV for 10 days (5/15 - 5/24). The owner wasn't there. Just a couple of people who worked for him I guess. They give me the keys & one of the guys said that they could clear the error code but that it runs 'good'. He said I should take it to get the valves adjusted @ the dealer. I told him we had that done just a few thousand miles ago & the owner told me it was b/c the dealer adjusted the valves based on the bad distributor & that they needed to be adjusted based on the new distributor. I knew it was bulls*** but I had my wife & kids with me & still had to return the rental & get back up to Chicago b/c we had to get back to our jobs in 2 days.

I get in the car & immediately i knew something was wrong. the idle was just as rough as it was when the check engine light came on initially. I drove it & it felt as if it was missing a cylinder. the gas mileage was crappy getting back. just everything felt wrong. I called our mechanic today & he's going to look at it as soon as i leave work. he said the good thing is that the check engine light is still on & their computer will tell them exactly what is going on. i'm afraid though that it's the dreaded 'burnt valve' problem.

but wouldn't the dealer have noticed a problem when we brought it in to get the valves adjusted? i know i'll get some sort of answer (& a straightforward one) from our mechanic in a few hours but I just want to prepare myself. why would the idle be so rough & the cylinder be misfiring after swapping out the distributor with parts that haven't even been used for 800 miles? on one hand i feel like they may not have even replaced the distributor in the shop @ WV & just screwed me & my family over since we were in such a tough spot, but I feel like it wouldn't have made the drive back up from WV to Chicago on a gimpy distributor.



Anyone?

Thanks!
 
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