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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I know there maybe other posts, but I can't find them.
but yes, wanting to get more mileage out of my 2000 CRV. (161K miles)
Right now, many short city driving, not a ton of freeway. but only am getting on average 16mpg. best was 22mpg, that was on a trip. I have only had it for 2 years.
Things I have done in the past 2 years (only driven it 10K miles in that time) was replaced 2 exhaust valves that were burnt when I got it. timing belt, water pump, thermostat, all belts (which squeal every time I start it up. then stop... WHY? ) I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W30 oil regularly. Replace plugs with NGK V-Power plugs. Air filter is a K&N, recently vacuumed it cleaner, replace fuel filter to K&N and lastly transmission was just rebuilt.

So next I was thinking, to replace the wires, who knows how old they are. I was thinking of NGK (9259) HE56 Spark Plug Wire Set. and maybe the PCV valve? does it matter what brand you use? then adding some fuel injector cleaner.

but what else do you suggest?
 

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might as well add cap and rotor along with the plugs/wires.
and maybe bump up the tire pressure to 28-30 from the 26psi called for.

mileage depends on driving habits also.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, thought of that. Will add to my list :)
do you have a suggestion on what brand of cap/rotor, should I get genuine Honda stuff? I see Amazon has them.

Also for the PCV. they range from $3 to way more. does it matter?
 

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City traffic with lots of acceleration and stopping just never allows an efficient cruise in top gear lock up.

And the Honda will run rich until warmed up. So cool weather and short trips bite efficiency. As do cold tires and rough city roads.

If your CRV is AWD there's a lot of weight and friction in all those drive line moving parts.

If your engine is running well, and not misfiring, then new ignition parts will not make any noticeable difference. Save the money for furl.

She ain't a Civic!!
 

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I went with the Bosch rotor and cap from amazon. my original cap had the center electrode worn down to nubbin. I have yet to install the rotor as it has issues with being frozen in place. check on posts here about replacing both as there are tricks to doing them.
changing plugs at 114k made the biggest gain on my 2000 5speed. I replaced oem wires with the blue ngks

changing out at 161k for you if all are original parts smart thing to do.

guess ya can change pcv if original though if it rattles it more than likely still works.

I get 23 city and 26 highway with my 5speed

how/where one drives though is biggest mpg maker
 

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In a dark area or at night, have the engine idling and mist (spray bottle) some water on the spark plug wires and see if you can see some arcing. If so, the wires probably need replacement
Check your timing!!
Do a compression check.
That low a mpg on a trip is not normal.
Have the valve lash adj unless that was done when the exhaust valves were replaced.
PCV valve should be replaced or cleaned if it doesn't rattle when removed and shaken.
Many recommend Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus or SeaFoam for the injector cleaning. I have used both but noticed no difference in performance, but perhaps my injectors were clean, etc.
Correct tire pressure can help . Many use 28-30 psi as akwagon suggested.
Buying a real time OBD2 gauge can be a lot of help as many, such as Ultra-gauge and ScanGuage give out much info that may really help with your low mpg. The Ultra-gauge is around $70 and I find my very useful.
Not only reads codes and resets them, but it gives open and closed loop mode (cold-richer warm-leaner), instant mpg, temps, distance traveled, timing advance, O2 sensor readings, and much more. I bought one of the first versions (wired) and use it all the time.http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/
Perhaps your ECT unit (engine coolant temp gauge) is faulty and is keeping your engine in open loop mode and causing it to run too rich,
There are many OBD2 readers out there and some can be had for around $20 that works with a smartphone or laptop.
Have your codes read to see if there are any stored ones.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all, so today checked a number of things. Rotated tires. I will need new ones in the next few months I am sure. filled them up to 29psi.
How do you check timing on this? I do have a timing light. but read about a jumper or something? help
I checked PCV and cleaned. it rattles fine. so maybe fine.
checked cap and rotor, yes, I think I will invest in some new Bosch ones and get those replaced soon. Wires, I tested with water and no arching at all. but they are the original Honda, or they were replaced with OEM ones. Sumitomo is written on it. I will watch to see if the blue NGK wires drop in price again on Amazon.
Added one of those Chevron Techron cans. they were on sale at Autozone right now.
I haven't checked compression, as I forgot the tool at work. will do that soon too.
i do have one of those cheap Harbor Freight OBD testors, but not sure if it checks what you say. also have a cheap-o bluetooth OBD for my phone, but it is not able to connect anymore. so may need to invest in a new one. I will look those up too.
thanks all!
 

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You'll have to search for how to check/set the ignition timing.
The shop manual tells you to disconnect the two Pin (BRW and BLK) service check connector from it's holder (under the dash) and then connect the SCS connector (P/N 07PAZ-0010100), to it (I'm sure it can be done with something else, possibly just a jumper). Then run the engine at aprox 3k rpm until the radiator fan comes on once ( all other electrical accessories off inc door lights, radio etc).
Then let the engine idle and connect the timing light and to cyl #1. With no other elect on (ac, heater fan,rear window defogger, radio, lights etc) the timing should read 16 +- 2 degrees BTDC (RED).
Rotate the distributor CCW to advance more, CW to retard more.

Another thought is to check the timing of the timing belt to make sure it isn't one tooth off on one of the cam gears.
Remember, don't crank the engine over with the starter with any spark plug wire disconnected or with the dist cap off unless you pull the proper fuse or disconnect the low voltage feed to the dist right next to it, or, you can cause the ignition coil to arc internally and short itself out.
If you're not getting misfiring, the spark plug wires are probably sufficient.
Also, O2 sensors and a partially plugged cat converter can greatly diminish power and mpg.
Buffalo4
 
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