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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up my 2000 CRV from Connecticut and my family is driving it down back to Florida.

My Uncle put a lot of work into this vehicle including:
  • Hoses
  • Breaks
  • Spark Plugs
  • Belts (including timing belt)
  • Water Pump
  • Emissions Sensor
  • Spark plug wires
The check engine light came on for Emissions so then my uncle changed the emission sensor. the light went off several hours later and continued to run a little rough. My Uncle checked the gaps on the spark plugs and after that the car ran fine.

After about 150 miles later it started running rough again...when you drive its a smooth ride but when it idles it sounds like its mis-firing. You can hear a clicking like noise coming from the motor and the car shakes a decent amount.


Any ideas what could be the problem?


Also while your here, when we use the wind shield wipers it leaves a thin film like residue behind that is hard to see though at night when there are lights shinning back at you. What could be wrong with this? Solutions?
 

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I hate to be the first to suggest this might be evidence of a serious problem, but do you know when the valves were last adjusted? Check around this (and other) CRV sites and you'll learn that American Honda, in its wisdom, recommended 110K valve adjustment intervals while other countries with same engine recommended 30K intervals. Problem? They get too tight and recede into a too soft head and damage the seating and sometimes also burn the valves. Tested by compression test. Check engine light and rough running are symptoms and signs. Problem Part II: Big $$$ (several thousand) to replace head.

I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but....if corrected early enough you can save the huge expense of cylinder head replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
defiantly not what i wanted to hear...

I just don't understand why the car would run fine for 150 miles and then all of a sudden run rough again...this could be it...really hope its not a damaged head
 

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def do the valve adjustment, replace the cap and rotor and check the timing as well. Might as well do the oil and tranny fluid, rear diff fluid and radiator fluids as well soon. Fuel filter if not done needs to be with the mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you turn the AC off the car starts acting properly again. When you rev the engine the car is fine. But when it idles the whole car shakes a little and the noise comes back. When the car idles with the air off its fine. Seems to me that the AC is not getting enough power.
 

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I am having the exact sam issue for the same vehicle

the idle is dropping to low and almost stalling. I would clean out your idle air control sylinoid.
I am trying to replace the rotor. After removing the cap I am being challenged by a plastic cover behind the rotor. I know I will have to deal with the famous rotor screw afterwards. Still, how do I get the cover off? I understand that I can rotate the rotor to get access to the screw by a short turn on the ignition key. Do I have to reconnect the battery for this.

If this doesn't work how do I clean out the control sylinoid?
 

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I suggest you do not use the starter to turn the engine over so that you can access the infamous rotor screw without disconnecting the low voltage connection to the distributor.
Why?
It can cause the coil to short itself out by arcing.
Result?
You might get poor ignition performance,hard starting or no starting and you will then have to go through the pain and expense of replacing the coil.
It used to be that you could check the spark by removing a spark plug wire and checking how far the spark jumped and its color, but with the Honda coil, if it can't find a ground, it can short itself out.
You can, with the battery disconnected, rotate the engine via a socket on the crankshaft nut.
Buffalo4
 

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Just picked up my 2000 CRV from Connecticut and my family is driving it down back to Florida.

My Uncle put a lot of work into this vehicle including:
  • Hoses
  • Breaks
  • Spark Plugs
  • Belts (including timing belt)
  • Water Pump
  • Emissions Sensor
  • Spark plug wires
The check engine light came on for Emissions so then my uncle changed the emission sensor. the light went off several hours later and continued to run a little rough. My Uncle checked the gaps on the spark plugs and after that the car ran fine.

After about 150 miles later it started running rough again...when you drive its a smooth ride but when it idles it sounds like its mis-firing. You can hear a clicking like noise coming from the motor and the car shakes a decent amount.


Any ideas what could be the problem?


Also while your here, when we use the wind shield wipers it leaves a thin film like residue behind that is hard to see though at night when there are lights shinning back at you. What could be wrong with this? Solutions?
I would suggest that you clean the IAC valve.
Also do the Idle Learn Procedure.
Valve adjustment would also be recommended. (It might need it, but it doesn't sound like it is your immediate problem)
Could also be a weak coil. Have your Uncle check.
Have your Uncle do a compression test and a vacuum test.
Best of Luck, Buffalo4
 

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Removing the rotor on a 2000 Honda CRV

Thanks to replies on this forum I was able to complete this level in the distributor rotor challenge. I removed the air filter housing (just two bolts) for easy clearance to the bottom screw of the rotor cap. I then used the a wrench to turn the belt pulley which simultaneously moved the rotor. After a few rotations the screw aligned with a groove in the plastic casing. Took the old one out place the new one in and reversed the steps. Don't forget to bring the rotors metal edge to the original position (my mechanic told me this part over the phone)....of course I forgot. I took everything apart again and completed this step. Oh yes, the gapping was way off. I brought it back to .04 inches as suggested in the OPM.

I am still having the same issues after the start. While adjust the spark plug gap I did find that they were full of oil. I doubt that is good.

I belive this is because I may have overdone the oil tapping. This is easy to do when you buy a bottle of Lucas stop leak which is not measured in quarts and you buy a 5 quart container of oil. Not easy to measure how much you have thrown in there. Tomorrow morning I will drain a bit of oil, clean the plugs and give it another run. Please let me know if I am off track.
 

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Just go by the reading on the dipstick for the proper oil level in the engine.
See if your Uncle or someone can check your ignition coil.
I don't understand the rotor alignment part since it really can't be adjusted unless you had turned the whole distributor, as far as I know.
Of course, I only worked on a 2000 CRV distributor once.
How did you manage to adjust it?
Have a compression test done and a vacuum test done. You or your Uncle should be able to do this fairly easily. The vacuum gauge and compression tester are not very expensive and you may be able to borrow one from someone or possibly even an auto parts store.
 

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I was able to rotate the rotor to access the screw by using a wrench on the belt pulley on the opposite end of the engine.
I understood that part, I was curious when you said the rotor was 0.04" off. I don't understand how that could be unless you actually rotated the whole distributor assembly. Like I said, I am not that familiar with that distributor.
Perhaps the vehicle ran good for awhile after your Uncle worked on it and then the sparkplugs became oil fouled and started missing.
A weak coil can cause misfiring easier on a partially fouled plug than a strong coil.
I noticed you said you were using Lucas additive for oil leaks. Perhaps your engine has broken or sticky rings and that is letting the engine oil past them and onto your sparkplugs.
I still recommend a compression test and a vacuum test.
Buffalo4
 
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