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Yes my first post herem sorry it is long, I have looked online and in these forums and know there are some similar problems to what I am dealing with. Please bear with me as I explain my situation and ask for help.

I have a 2000 CRV automatic. 161K miles no codes initially.
about 2 months ago, I noticed a different sounding whine when I started it up. I asked my wife who drove it last and she said yes, she forgot to tell me about the transmission sounded funny and was slipping a bit. after test driving on our street, yes, it was slipping and revving not able to get into drive at times. so searching online and did the first drain and fill. 3 quarts. it was very dirty. (also did an oil change as it had been a while) and then tried looking for a solenoid and cleaning the screens in there. I was not sure which ones I was doing, but the easiest one to get to was on the top I think now it was the lock up solenoid (has 2 on it). it works fine in the test and I cleaned it and reinstalled. just did that one at first.
Now for the next month, we didn't drive it much at all as I had a friends car to use. so during that time, I did some test runs with no better. and then a few weeks later I worked on it and tried another solenoid. not sure what it was initially but now think it was the shift control solenoid. it was underneath and on passenger side. I thought it was one that I could do with fluid still in, but NO! I took it off and fluid started pouring out a little hole. Thankfully I had a container and measured just over 2 quarts. so had to buy some more from Honda. I did clean that solenoid as well. it was quite difficult to get to. But on test drive, still slipping
well, then after letting the car sit for another few weeks. After my friend came and got her car, I tried the CRV again. Well strangely when I drove it, it drove great! the only thing I noticed was a slight bump from 1-2. so I drove just locally within a few miles of home and it was fine for a week.

Well today I had to drive on the freeway and about 15 miles. it was all fine, until about 10 miles out. the check engine light lit up. and then the tranny started acting funny again.
i was able to limp to my appointment and then limp home just taking the streets and not over 30 mph.
This time it rarely would go into Drive. and often would clunk and jerk from stops. so drove in 2nd I assume and slipping often, and often I would pull over and stop and turn off the car. then after min, go again and would be a bit better.

so that is where I am at. now at home, the codes were P0740 and P0730.

I think the next step I will do is drain and fill one more time. and then I have read that the linear solenoid maybe the next thing to check.
but that is where i need some help.
On my car, where is that exactly? from images I see, it seems it maybe underneath on passenger side behind the other one I removed. behind Shift control? but I really can't see an easy way to get to the linear solenoid. how does one get to it? from top? After removing air filter housing? or from underneath? but seems like I need to remove the plastic skid plate (but that seems very difficult as there is a large silver bar (stabilizer bar maybe?) that goes through it.
what are the steps to get to it.

please I would appreciate any help on what to try next, or any suggestions.

thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
hello all,
i still need some assistance. is there anyone out there that can help me please.
need to find out which one is the linear solenoid and how to get to it.
thanks!
 

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Thanks rocky. yes, i have read those and other forums as well. I think I understand where the linear solenoid is. but how in the world do you get access to it to remove it? do I need to remove the pipe thing and the plastic splash sheila to get to it? Please someone let me know the steps to remove this solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
does it slip when you shift it manually?
I am not 100% sure if I remember. I think it drives OK in 2nd manually. but when put into drive, the last time, it wouldn't shift up.
I am going to drain again and see if I can flush out more of the junk in there and fill and try again. will let you know
 

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If you drain and fill it 4 times, with driving in between, you will have approx 90% new atf.
The old recommended Honda Z-1 is not highly thought of.
Since it sounds like the atf hasn't been changed in a lo-oong time, I would really suggest 4 drain and fills as the minimum.
Use either the new Honda DW-1, another synthetic atf compatible with your Honda , such as Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf (around $18/gal jug at Walmart) .
Hopefully too much damage has not occurred. Sometimes all that clutch debris not only clogs up the solenoid screens, it also clogs up the intake filter screen inside the AT sump and allows insufficient atf flow after a short time due to the clogging on the screen.

Best bet now is to do several more atf drain and fills with the proper fluid and driving time in between, at least long enough to go into TC lockup (highest gear) and through all the gears, incl Reverse and getting the atf up to operating temps.

Plenty of good links down below under the Similar Threads header.

Sorry, no advice on the Linear Solenoid that you asked about except that there are probably vids on youtube about it.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Buffalo4.
well I finally have time to get out there again today. So yes, now I did find out how to remove the plastic skid plate and bar. not as difficult as first thought. and yes, now easy to get to linear solenoid. I remove it and tried a test on it connecting to battery. I assume it should click if connect to 12V right? i tried both connectors and no click. so I assume this probably needs replacing at least this one anyway.

and yes, I drained it once already (~3 qts) and then filled and drive. and also then when removing the shift control solenoid to test, a bunch more fluid came out, so had to replace that. that was about 2qts.

so now I am about to drain fully again another 3qts and test drive it. but first will also replace the linear solenoid from a pick a part place hopefully.

oh and yes, I am using Honda DW-1 fluid for sure. Sure is expensive tho. so thankful I found some a bit cheaper from Ebay.
thanks for the help so far!
 

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You won't go wrong with the Honda DW-1. The Valvoline product is also much better than the old Honda Z-1, from what I've read, and a lot of people prefer it to the DW-1, not only for price, but for performance.

You may want to dig deeper into that solenoid you are replacing to make sure there isn't a screen in that hole that needs to be removed.

Good job in digging into it and getting that solenoid out. Now that you know how to remove that bottom plastic plate, you will have no trouble replacing your headlights either (the assembly, not just the bulbs), as I believe that you need to remove it, and the bumper, to do so, at least on a 2000. Those old headlight lenses get really clouded ,etc with age.
BTW, if you need a set of those, aftermarket ones, I'll send them to you for shipping costs only. :D
I bought them for a friend's 2000 CRV and the box was damaged during the UPS shipment so they sent me another set. These look fine. Private message please.

And yes, the Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf is compatible and mixable with the Honda DW-1, if you decide to use it.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the quick reply again Buffalo4

so I am done for the day now. Tried the other guys idea of draining the fluid and blowing air into the top. seemed to work nicely. Got out more fluid this time. almost 4 qts this time.
Also removed the shift solenoid and cleaned the screen. tested again and that one works fine.
But the linear one is not clicking. so will go to pick a part this week hopefully and get a working one there.

I am interested in the Valvoline MaxLife ATF. wish I would have known before I bought 6 qts of DW-1 on ebay. as Valvoline is much cheaper.
but from what I first read online that most are quite strict about using ONLY Honda DW-1 ATF in these trannys.
I would have used Valvoline for the draining and filling these 2 times if you think that would be OK.

thanks! and yes, I may PM you about that other stuff.
 

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Many of the posters say only use OEM on almost everything, just like they used to say on the Odyclub forum. ONLY use Honda Z-1 atf if you value your AT. Blah,Blah, Blah---HONDA knows best!!!! Turns out that Z-1 was blamed for the early failure of many Odyssey ATs by a lot of knowledgeable people. The Odys are much heavier than the CRVs and the Honda Z-1 was not up to the task, overall. Those that used Amsoil and Valvoline and other top brands were very happy about their experiences. Now, very many of the Odyclub members prefer the Valvoline product, even over the DW-1 atf for their ATs that are not CVTs.
But, the Honda DW-1 has also proven to be up to the task.
I will be gone for around a month, but if you're still interested, check back.
Best of luck on your CRV! :D
Some Honda Dealers actually give a good price on DW-1. Many others don't. :(
Buffalo4
 

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Thanks again.
well I ordered a "new"/used linear solenoid as I assumed that was the problem.
and I thought like the other solenoids that I tested by connecting to the battery (it would like if it was good)
but now both my original one and the new one (who said it was tested and good) both do NOT click when connected to 12V.
is that normal? Is it supposed to click? or do these ones not? OR is my new part not working either?

Would appreciate any help if someone has done this before.
 

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oh man. well I have been out trying to figure out how to test these. seems like you have to connect wires to the actual 2 electrical points instead of just using the metal body to ground. that didn't work. BUT connecting 12V to the connector directly I did get a clicking! oh man. that means my old one is probably still OK. I guess I wasted some money on this ebay part. bummer
 

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So today's update.
well I assumed my linear solenoid is fine as when testing it clicks and acts the same way as the "new" old one I bought on ebay. oh well.
so installed everything back the way it was. refilled with the correct Honda fluid. took a test drive and sadly it actually seems worse now!
I almost didn't get it around the block. At times I could get it to go in any gear at all! just slipping.
and the whine that I hear in Park (and sometime other) seems more. not sure what that means exactly.
I cleared the codes, but the P0730 came back right away (Wrong gear ratio).
so not sure what to try next.
Since I do have an extra linear solenoid, I can replace that and try it I guess to see if that might help.
any suggestions out there?
 

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OK, just thought I would write out all this, to remind me what I have done.
SO.... put the "new" linear solenoid in to test it. still the same. and maybe worse.
at times, (most times) I am not getting any movement in all gears. (better in Reverse) but seems like all gears are not working much at all. If I sit there and slowly rev the engine, it may very slowly try to move forward, VERY slowly.
so seems like it is getting worse after all my work and not better at all.
I guess the next step is to take to a shop and see what they say.
 

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Well, i think my transmission maybe toast. like I mentioned before, I can't really go at all now. I put in drive and wait, and very slowly you can feel it try to grab and then slowly roll forward, but when given gas, still slipping.

So called a few places. I have gotten prices from $1400-$2000 for rebuilding. what do I do now?
 

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Well, i think my transmission maybe toast. like I mentioned before, I can't really go at all now. I put in drive and wait, and very slowly you can feel it try to grab and then slowly roll forward, but when given gas, still slipping.

So called a few places. I have gotten prices from $1400-$2000 for rebuilding. what do I do now?
If they know what they are doing and do a good job, that price range isn't bad. To just buy a remanufactured one at a parts store is going to cost that much and that would include you taking the old one out and putting the new one in yourself. The parts in a transmission aren't all that expensive. It is the labor to take it apart and put it back together. Make sure you get your torque converter replaced at the same time. It may cost a couple hundred more.
 

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OK, probably my last update on this transmission story. I ended up taking my car to my transmission place (I had my mini van done there 3 years back) (let me know if you need a good tranny place near downtown Los Angeles)
so anyway, I just ended up taking it there and yes, just picked it up today. Works great again! They rebuilt the tranny and torque convertor and also noticed the right front axle was going out. so did that too for an additional $75. was the perfect time to do it.
only cost me a total of $1300! so was super happy!
so hopefully it will give me another many years of happiness in this car.
 
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