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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, still the original owner of a 2000 EX (Milano Red) 278,000 miles on it. Need to eek out another 6 months or so! Long time member over at HondaSUV.com- those guys over there really helped me keep this car alive all these years. Alas, that site seems to have been sent to the big digital junkyard in the sky... :(

Anyhow, I've been having a bad vibration/noise problem from about 50MPH to about 70MPH, then it stops again. Coexisting symptoms are a "clunking" after reversing and shifting back into "D" and moving forward (use to be occasional, now it's constant) and a rubbing/squealing sound when making a hard left (especially turning up a hill). I've changed the Dual Pump II fluid twice to no avail. Not really sure if all three problems are the same root cause. BUT....

I've found this youtube video where the guy explains the EXACT SAME SYMPTOMS as mine on a '97. He shows what he describes as a "Rear Differential Bushing" and "tiny U-joint". I have the service manual but I can't seem to locate the part anywhere in the rear diff section. I also purchased a used rear diff (!) thinking the whole thing was shot, but I can't locate the parts he shows anywhere on THAT either.

OK, since I'm a newbie I'm not able to post a link. :( But go over to youtube and search for this title: "Honda CRV Vibrate? Here is how to fix it."


Can anyone identify what part he's talking about in this video? And/or have any more opinions on my problems? Thanks!!
 

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[URL="http://http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-parts/1998/honda/cr-v-5-door/lx-4wd-trim/4-speed-automatic-engine/chassis-cat/rear-cross-beam-scat[/URL]

If that link works, that's the page the bushing is on. Should be number 6 on the list. They don't seem to list replacement universal joints for the drive shaft to the differential (they are calling it a propeller shaft). Not sure where to find those. But someone out there makes them I'm sure.
 

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You might have multiple problems. The vibes you are getting at 50 to 70 mph then goes away after could be a bad tire(s) that need balancing. Could you tell where is it vibrating? Try to swap the front to back & vice versa. The clunking when shifting in from back to forward direction most likely a bad u-joints on the propeller shaft. You can verify this by removing the prop shaft then taking it for a drive. Before removing the prop shaft be sure you mark both the flange of the shaft in relation to the differential & tranny. Its crucial that it goes back where it came out from as you might get more balancing issues. Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks BDub! The link was bad but I was able to track it down eventually. And there's even an aftermarket piece available from Amazon Prime for 12 bucks! So that's on the way.

There's only one U-joint there and gets poor reviews due to fitment. If this persists I'll track another kit down somewhere.

Thanks also Otto! yep, tires was the first thing we tried. Due to poor alignment (must've hit a pothole or something, as I was only 18 months removed from my last alignment) the RR tire was almost down to belt on the inside. So I have two new rear tires, freshly balanced an aligned, an no relief from the issue. Leaving it at the mechanic tomorrow as I leave for vacation, so if the differential mount/bushing doesn't solve the clunk it I'll suggest to him that he remove the propeller tube to see if it goes away then. It was a loud metallic CLANG for the longest time- I actually thought stuff was shifting in the spare bay and it was the jack making the noise, but it has since settled to the "clunk". What is the danger/issue with running with a bad U-Joint? If it's not that critical, maybe I'll just live with that for the next six months as the car is starting its slow walk to the big junkyard in the sky...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, definitely SOME sort of damage on the U-Joint upon inspection. I need to post two more times after this so I can post the picture :) > So not sure if that is the sole issue or just one of the issues.

The used diff still has the U-joint attached- they just cut the propeller shaft. Everything out there says that the U-jpints aren't made to be replaced and the whole shaft needs to be replaced instead. I wonder if my mechanic can make it work with this used one or possibly a new one from elsewhere? Well above my skill level.

Or I guess an alternative would be to just remove the propeller shaft and run FWD mode. Sure wish we were safely out of snow season!
 

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If you are having alignment issues on the rear, the trailing arm budgings are most likely shot. If you've never replaced them. Definitely shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, for closure here:

bought the Rockford 430-9B U-joint and my mechanic installed it. He said it was a pain in the butt. I also had purchased the Eagle BHP-30 Differential Mount. It didn't appear that the existing one was broken, but my mechanic replaced it anyway. The vibration is all gone! Yee Ha! Still have a rubbing noise on a hard left, but I guess I'll just have to live with that for the final six months.

Anybody wanna buy a used rear diff cheap ?? ;) Ended up not using it obviously....
 

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OK, for closure here:

bought the Rockford 430-9B U-joint and my mechanic installed it. He said it was a pain in the butt. I also had purchased the Eagle BHP-30 Differential Mount. It didn't appear that the existing one was broken, but my mechanic replaced it anyway. The vibration is all gone! Yee Ha! Still have a rubbing noise on a hard left, but I guess I'll just have to live with that for the final six months.

Anybody wanna buy a used rear diff cheap ?? ;) Ended up not using it obviously....
Thanks for letting us know the fix! We're glad that you have resolved the vibe problem. I would suggest to lift all 4 wheels then try to simulate the hard left see if you could pinpoint the rubbing sound where its coming from by carefully inspecting where the wheels are touching. Are all 4 tires original size?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yep, all 4 are identical and the original size. The sound is definitely from the rear- I don't think turning left with the wheels off the ground will trigger that, do you? Anyway, the mechanic said the rear control arm bushings aren't great but tolerable, but shouldn't cause this sound I'm hearing. It's so infrequent I'm inclined to let it go as I plan to (sadly) replace the vehicle in 5 months (last mortgage payment WOOOOO!). It really only shows up turning hard left while turning UP-hill- a situation I encounter twice a day in my kid's school driveway. Now that the vibration noise is gone I do notice a lot of other little shakes, rattles, and rolls while at highway speeds. But nothing that makes me fear that parts will fall off like that vibration did! :D
 
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