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2001 Crv SE
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hood is done. I could spend more hours on it but it's good enough!
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Now for the heat/sound barrier. You can see the quality lol. It absorbs souDn! Other than the typo I'm pretty happy with the product. Not easy to put on in big sections. Split it in 3. Finished it with aluminum tape and some plastic clips just for insurance.

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You and guys like you JT are amazing! That you have the patience and talent to do all this is incredible and I salute you! It’s folks like you that can take on a project like this is what makes the world go round.

Good luck and please keep us posted when your build is completed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
You and guys like you JT are amazing! That you have the patience and talent to do all this is incredible and I salute you! It’s folks like you that can take on a project like this is what makes the world go round.

Good luck and please keep us posted when your build is completed.
Thank you very much. Most people can do any of this stuff if they put their mind to it. Patience is not my virtue but I have plenty of time to do this stuff. No rush, no pressure. Very therapeutic. There will be an update tonight. Out working on the beast as we speak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I intended to just put a short ram intake, sold for an integra, on today. But it turned into more of course. I saw that the throttle body was dirty.... So this is how to properly clean a throttle body. You need a red rag, throttle body cleaner, and something semi soft to hold the butterfly open. Screwdriver handle of the right size does the trick nicely. Obviously the only way to properly clean a throttle body is off the vehicle.

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Sure you want to clean the face of the throttle valve/butterfly, but where you really want to focus is the bore of the unit and the edge of the throttle valve. This is where the important stuff is happening. Carbon buildup can keep the valve from closing, erratic movement, and all around poor performance. This is especially important on drive by wire systems. If your Silverado dies turning slow sharp corners, do this procedure before you replace the throttle body.

Anyway.... you need to really get around the edge of the valve as far to the sides as you can. I use 2 hands and floss the red rag around the valve. Don't spray cleaner in the throttle body. Spray the rag. Keep moving to a clean place on rag. You will move to a new rag spot and spray the rag quite often.

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Now here is half the bore cleaned and one side of the valve. So at this point you would put your screwdriver handle through the other side so you can clean the other half.

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Once you get both sides clean with valve open, you can just let it close and get any spots near the center sides that are harder with valve open. Most of it is cleaned with the valve open. You may get a funny idle because you have made an air pocket in the fast idle valve when you disconnected coolant hoses. I had no such issues but I did leave the radiator cap and rev the engine a few times in an attempt to circulate coolant through. Clean bore, clean valve. Pretty straight forward. Replace throttle body gasket (i didn't).

New spare tire cover. I dig it.

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So with the factory airbox out of the way I decided to replace all the grounds that were easily accessible now. 4awg welding wire. Best stuff you can get. Made in USA. 4 awg. The insulation it has feels amazing and would be fine by itself, but it's getting sleeved anyway.

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A hydraulic wire crimper is a great investment. Good cable, tinned copper lugs, and ferrules, and you can make any battery cable for anything much cheaper than you can buy pre made and in my opinion these are better.

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Wire wrap and heat shrink seals the deal. I love seeing that fat glue sticking out of the end of the heat shrink. This is the best heat shrink I've ever bought. Continued in next post. Can only have 10 pictures in a post it seems.

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
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Yes the bolt going through grounds it and makes good connection. Yes grinding paint can make a place for rust. That's why I paint prepped it before putting the wire on and then clear coated over the connection. I will still be keeping an eye on these and possibly greasing them as well.

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All places where the wire lugs bolt down got wire wheeled and paint prepped.

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I don't like the electrical engineer that decided there didn't need to be a dedicated engine ground straight from battery to engine/transaxle. I am adding that now.

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That is an extra dedicated engine ground straight to the battery. Starter should be happier.

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I will be adding an extra alternator wire and the positive battery terminal like the negative. So don't mind the mess on the positive side.

The intake fits perfectly. Like it was meant to be there. This is not how the mount was intended I'm sure. But the rubber piece threaded right into factory airbox hole. Seems fine to me. I will keep an eye on it. I may make a little separator compartment.

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I hate to triple post it but I have more pictures lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
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New center console lid is done. Much better fit. Just as comfy.

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It's getting there... Slowly.

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Great stuff, John! Thanks for all the DIYs with pictures!

I'm thinking this should be in the DIY section. moving
 
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Thank you very much. Most people can do any of this stuff if they put their mind to it. Patience is not my virtue but I have plenty of time to do this stuff. No rush, no pressure. Very therapeutic. There will be an update tonight. Out working on the beast as we speak.
No JT, you are wrong. You have great talent and patience that few of us possess. Everything you’ve done is but those dash gauges are incredible. May I ask where you got the very cool spare tire cover? I want one!

FANTASTIC JOB all around!
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Wish they had green.

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I hear ya. I wish they had red. I need to get my special lady/ladyfriend a bigger Cricut and I could have her make whatever. Can still make one in pieces. Covers are cheap. I think the blank black covers are 10 bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well... moving forward. I've started on fender flares. I bought rubber well nuts (mainly to seal bolt holes in rears), stainless nylon nuts, and washers. Also got some fender washers with what I'm assuming are aluminum washers with stainless bolts.

I've removed most of the rust and cut back the polyester fabric material I used to seal the gap between rear wheelwell and fender. I'm basically just using primer sealer and duplicolor perfect match paint to try to protect what is left. It will be covered by the flares anyway. I have some por-15, but for now i think this will do. Hopefully have more progress tomorrow.

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I will probably be making my own design on a spare tire cover. I really don't want blue. I want the silver and black to have small red accents in places. If i wind up not liking how the red looks, then I'll just get blue or black washers, or panhead stainless bolts. We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well good times. I'm sure between a combination of the flares being very cold and cheap junk, one cracked while center punching it. I still drilled ugly holes through. Guess i should have warmed them up first. So now I guess I'll get some plastic epoxy. I'm losing interest in these flares very quickly. Even molding them to body shape with a heat gun, I don't have high hopes. This may become a how not to do fender flares section lol.
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Got a little friend in the mail today. Some motivation to get fender flares on......🤣
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2021 CR-V Hybrid EX Obsidian Blue
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This is fun to follow, thanks for taking the time to document and post all the pics! Brings back memories! My 2001 was the first car I bought on my own that wasn't previously my parents'. I loved it for over 200k miles and shed a tear when I sold it 😢
 
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