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2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Header is installed. Along with a fresh oil pan gasket. Love the flat pan. Header fit with no clearance issues. Easiest way to put it on is from the bottom. I unbolted the bar underneath and pulled plastic down on driver side, and the header slid right up. Coming in from the top with it doesn't work too well. If the radiator wasn't there you could slide it down.

I will be getting studs and nuts for header bolts to head. The flange is much thicker and I don't trust the factory bolts depth now holding it on. Kind of hard to see in pictures, but clearance is fine. Make sure if you have an automatic that the trans cooler lines to radiator have clearance.

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I ordered some heat insulation wrap for that a/c line. It will probably be fine but I'm wrapping it. Header just comes with regular bolts to test pipe. Stock spring bolts didn't seem to fit. I'll be putting spring bolts in. I want that flex.

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Right now after test pipe it's the factory 2" with factory resonator. But I got some goodies in the mail today. Exhaust will be full 2.5 all the way very soon. Sound comparison videos will be coming soon. Header, test pipe, factory resonator sound. Header, test pipe, factory resonator, flowmaster super 44( although it's not fair because the super internals are loose just after sitting inside shop for a year. Pretty junk if you ask me). And finally we will get to hear the finished product with all 2.5 inch pipe, vibrant resonator and muffler. I don't want it quiet, just not rasping around. We'll find out if this setup sounds good.
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Bonuses... a trashed super 44 just from sitting in shop. Flowmaster really went downhill. The internals are rattling around and look at the outside. Only had it on about 6 months.

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Poor little guy. I'll keep you around. Looks like it was cracked as well. I didn't even know. Header was justified now lol. Yea, yea, I mean I knew it was cracked all along. Yeah!馃ぃ

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Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I ordered the 1320 stainless exhaust studs. Should be here next week. I also ordered wheels, lugs, and center caps. I got some spacers just in case I need them. In the meantime I forgot the pictures I had on facebook when I first got the crv with bad transmission. I put the 245/60R15's on. I love this size. I even had the same size on the back of my 01 civic. 235/60R15's on front of civic. Had my gopher out there washin!馃榿 so a little of the initial build until more stuff comes in.

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The valve cover paint job didn't last too long. Must not have prepped it well enough.
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My custom honda engine stand and transmission jack. All very heavy duty official equipment.馃ぃ

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First thing I got after getting it going was a factory roof rack from local pick and pull place. Think I gave 20 bucks for it. Sanded it all and painted with duplicolor truck bed coating.

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Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Ran into a snag with the header. Was running great for a couple days. Yesterday getting up to speed it started running like shit. Then check engine light popped up and it ran fine after defaulting to base parameters. Code p0138 current and p0136 pending. Watching oxygen sensors shows the front sensor working perfectly, but rear sensor is very slow to respond and takes about 30 seconds more to start reading than sensor 1. It will also just rest at a high or low voltage. Like the sensor is laggy/bad.

Usually with a test pipe you would throw a 420 code. Strange this is coming up after test pipe install. I'm wondering if the rear o2 sensor is actually too far away from exhaust flow to read properly with the spacer. I'm going to go through the flow chart and figure it out, but it sure looks like a laggy o2 sensor to me.
 

Registered
2000 LX 5spd awd
Joined
520 Posts
Your smart and sound lite you know how to use an oscilloscope so this tip is only for you i do not recommend this test to anyone but @JohnTaper . Get a propane enrichment tool and add it into your intake tube before your throttle body. No matter how far back the sensor is it will still react to an unwanted rich condition. You should see it react and go away regularly on your scope.
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Your smart and sound lite you know how to use an oscilloscope so this tip is only for you i do not recommend this test to anyone but @JohnTaper . Get a propane enrichment tool and add it into your intake tube before your throttle body. No matter how far back the sensor is it will still react to an unwanted rich condition. You should see it react and go away regularly on your scope.
I don't think the rear o2 is too far back. I'm wondering if it is too far out of the exhaust stream with the spacer/check engine light eliminator that the test pipe comes with. It's pretty long with a 90 bend. I'm going to be checking it out soon. I don't have the propane enricher, but I have my ways.馃榿
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
As long as you can hold it steady there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.
I really didn't even have to get that far actually. Holding throttle steady at 3000 rpm you can see the rear sensor just flatlines and works when it wants to. I have a final check to make sure we don't have a wiring issue, then I'll be replacing the rear oxygen sensor if that checks out. I did have to heat the pipe pretty hot to get the rear sensor out. I've never had a problem heating the pipe and bung to get them out before. We are definitely hovering over .6 volts at 3k rpm.

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Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
I believe i found the problem. The rear oxygen sensor spacer moves the rear oxygen sensor out of the exhaust stream. To the point that it is not getting a proper reading. I also had the bend of the spacer facing forward. This may have caused the issue as well. I removed one of the spacers and pointed it backwards. Seems to have resolved the issue.

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It's gone back to where it was. So that wasn't it. Still have to test wires.
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Oh yeah that looks much better!
I'm going to drive it a few days before i go any further. Seems that moving the rear O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream takes care of p0420, but can cause P0138. I think this is a matter of getting the sensor spaced just far enough, but not too much. Sensor has a good ground and .1 volt reference signal. Service manual just says to make sure it is below .6. Sensor and wiring are fine. I think the pcm is just ultra sensitive in respect to monitoring catalyst efficiency.

In case there was ever any doubt, the rear oxygen sensor can make these vehicles run like shit until they kick the check engine light on. Very counter intuitive and I do not like that at all. I don't want to have to get a tune to get rid of rear oxygen sensor. I may just put the cat back on. I don't want to get even worse gas mileage running around in open loop. Nothing like a problem you created yourself. Good times. Not a big deal, just annoying.
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
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217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Spacing the oxygen sensor correctly, fixed the issue. I've went through two tanks of gas with no check engine light and no codes pending.

I got the stainless exhaust studs, but the workshop is not set up to work in this cold of weather. I do have the flowmaster 44 sound with the test pipe and header.

 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Changed my mind on wheels. Decided on some starfish 17's off of a 2000 mustang gt. I think I made the right decision. Bolted right on, no modification to anything.

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Minimal poke. Acceptable.

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I had the rear left camber arm set slightly positive because i had a tire that was badly worn on the inside before. Make a mark on the body of the adjusting arms so you know how many turns you've went. The locknuts and body are both 21mm. Locknuts both turn same direction to loosen, that can throw you off. I went in a half turn.

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I did get 2.5 exhaust all the way back with the vibrant muffler and resonator. I think it sounds pretty good. I'll have a video up soon with the sound. I have to tweak/redo one of the muffler hangers. It's hitting the stupid hitch on right turns.
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Needs a bath soon from the crappy snow roads. I need to order the trailing arm spacer kit from hrg to pull those rear wheels back. They're not close to touching but I don't like the way it looks.

Full lock to lock on front wheels. Still has clearance Clarence.
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Only difference now is the wheels are lug centric instead of hub centric. I could order hubcentric adapters for ease of installation but this is perfectly fine. One of the best tips I ever got was to hold the wheel and torque the lugs to 45 foot pounds in the air, then let the tires down on the ground with enough weight to keep them from rolling and do your final torque.
 

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@JohnTaper Very interesting that Mustang wheels fit the V!
 
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Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
@JohnTaper Very interesting that Mustang wheels fit the V!
They are the same bolt pattern. 5x114.3 or 5x4.5". They are a positive offset wheel like the stock crv wheels, but these particular wheels are a 30mm offset and the crv wheels are 50mm. Not a huge difference but it does change the scrub radius. I will be getting taller tires and moving the upper ball joint inward to make camber a degree or 2 negative to have a minimally positive scrub radius.

The scrub radius is too positive right now. I can tell because it has torque steer, brake pull, and moves the wheel on bumps. Nothing drastic, but it's there. Taller tires and some camber and toe magic should take care of it. Plus it won't look like a tonka truck with taller tires馃ぃ
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I got a spare starfish wheel and got a used 235/60 R17 put on it to test fit and see how I like the looks.

I ordered the hrg 1" trailing arm spacer kit to move the rear wheels back. I was going to order the hrg 1" lift for the front to match the 2" hrg lift that I have in back, but I decided on the 1320 brand 1" lift. Only because the 1320 is solid and I just have to compress the spring to turn the tophat 90 degrees. With the hrg you have to take the tophat off and change studs, or shorten them.

Bottom line, this only applies to the 1" lift. I think you have to shorten the studs on the 1.5 " as well, but I digress. Again this only applies to the 1" lift. I wanted to give hrg more business but I also like 1320 and I'm more than happy to support small businesses who actually produce something tangible as much as I can.

The driver front wheel bearing has some play so I will be replacing it. Since I'm in there I am just going to replace lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends with moogs. Don't read bad reviews online saying they were shipped with torn boots or boots tore after a month. These are installer errors that I will show how to avoid.

Also replacing the steering rack boots as they are torn. It doesn't look like the rack is leaking, but if I get down there and see that it is leaking, I will also replace the rack.

Fender flare is fixed and I will be installing them also.

Here is the vibrant exhaust. I will get some more videos of it idling and normal driving... I'm not too impressed with the sound to be quite honest. At idle especially, in my opinion, you just can't beat the sound of a chambered muffler. I don't know. Tell me what you think. I am genuinely interested in you guys opinion on it.

 

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2018 Honda CR-V EX-L Lunar Silver
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143 Posts
A lower note would be good. What would it take to sound like a Harley? :)
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
A lower note would be good. What would it take to sound like a Harley? :)
Lol, maybe if I kill a couple cylinders I can get it to lope. I'll just run cyl 1 and 4 companions.馃槅

I don't know. I'll probably go back to a super 44 flowmaster. They make a 60 series supposed to be for 4 bangers but I don't know how it will sound. I know the super 44 sounds beefier. This thing just sounds like a fart can. I'm sure the built in 3 inch tip isn't helping. I don't need that rice. The vibrant stuff is built well but I don't think the muffler sounds good on this engine. Not a bad product, I just don't think it's for me.
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Waiting on a few more parts, but I have a bunch of work to do this week

Lower ball joints
Driver front wheel bearing
Sway bar bushings
Outer tie rods
Steering rack boots
Front 1" spacer for a front 2" lift
Trailing arm bushing spacers
Stainless header studs
Heat insulate a/c line over header
Fender flares
Finishing sound deadening inside doors, front fenders, and front bumper
Intake piping to pull air from inside right front fender
Air filter bag

I need to move my gauge needles ever so slightly also.

I ordered oil and transmission crush washers. You can order a 12 pack of wix filters online for 60 bucks. Can't beat that price on wix filters.

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Apparently before I got this vehicle, someone took the transfer case bracket off and never put it back on. So I got one and a missing radiator stay from the local pick and pull salvage yard for 3 dollars. I also pulled a main relay out of one for a spare to keep in the car. Paid 2 dollars for it. There were 5 or 6 crv's there. It was sad. They were cut down before their prime. I wanted to bring them all home with me but they don't like to sell whole cars. I may still just go ahead and get a backup engine and transaxle.

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I almost forgot. This setup is 40% off right now on amazon. We shall see if it is any good.

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Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Small parts update before I dive in. The rack boots are the only thing I'm not completely sure will fit. I'll find out soon!
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I got a hood bra but then I realized I can't just slap it on. I need to get the hood in as good of shape as I can before I put the bra on.... So I'll be using a clay bar, buffing it, waxing, etc. etc.

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For fun, got some yellow headlight bulbs. I will also be restoring headlights and clear coating them.
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I also wanted to mention that I have NEVER got more than 21 mpg with this vehicle. Since installing header and test pipe mileage has increased to nearly 23mpg. I have not been taking it easy on it, quite the opposite, and only about 1/2 of the driving was on the highway. I need to plan a trip so i can see what mileage I can really get now. I'll also be checking/adjusting valves so I went ahead and got a new valve cover gasket. Not leaking, but it's always hit and miss reusing gaskets.
 

Registered
2001 Crv SE
Joined
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Slow going. I've had a few other cars to work on so crv was on backburner. Trailing arm 1" spacers are installed. Passenger rear frame brace was rotted in half so I need to make another trip to the pick and pull place. If they are all toast, then honda has them for 30 bucks. Driver side with splash shield is still ok so I cleaned it up a little.

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Not supposed to be a gaping hole in the front of wheelwell. St. Louis area is terrible on cars in winter. Wish they would use sand instead of salt. When I bought this thing a couple years back, the wheelwells weren't showing any rust. I'm sure it was there but nothing I could see. Por15 and fiberglass will soon be implemented.

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Wheel cylinders are leaking. I have new wheel cylinders. I could probably get the brake lines off the back if I really wanted to, but I just ordered both rear lines from honda for about 16 or 17 bucks each. I could make these lines, but for the price from honda, it's a no brainer.

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I haven't decided if I'm going to replace the brake flex hoses. Seems logical at 325,000 miles I should probably just replace them for peace of mind. Fronts are starting to split anyway. Can get a braided steel set of all 4 for like 110 bucks on ebay.

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Not even getting to the front yet, but I have went off the deep end. I ordered the moog front swaybar links, both lower control arms, aerogenics control arm/ball joint spacer (because I should have ordered the silver truhart upper control arms in the first place, even though I don't remember seeing them at the time). Also got a cardone left front cv axle. So everything will be new. Everything. Still have to test fit the tire size after everything is done.

This control arm got here from Ottawa in just a couple days. I currently have the autoshack coilovers all around and I couldn't be happier with them.

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Almost forgot.
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