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Discussion Starter #1
My sister has a 2001 Honda CRV and was getting a CEL, the codes were, P0303, P0304, P0300, and P1399. The plugs and wires are fairly new, they are both NGK. I just replaced the distributor hoping that would remedy the problem, but when timing it with the timing light, I have the distributor rocked all the way forward and cannot get the orange/red mark to line up... If I rock it back, the orange/red mark gets even farther away from the alignment mark... It has always idled kind of rough, valves were just adjusted and they were almost all within spec. So I'm stumped with the cel's and not having enough adjustment on the distributor to time it correctly.. Ane help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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You might need to check the timing belt for excessive slack. Have you checked the valve clearance on all cylinders? Was anything done before this happened? Do you have a repair manual handy?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Haven't checked the timing belt, it was done just a few years back. I did check all the valve clearances and only a few needed adjusted, the rest were perfectly fine. Nothing was done to the car, it's completely stock. I don't have a repair manual for it since it's my sisters car, I'm just trying to help her out.
 

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I will be sending you a PM. If the timing belt has stretched it will do what you are seeing in adjusting the timing. Is the vehicle sluggish ? Let me know.
 

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How do I check the timing belt for slack on this car?
Look at the section on how to change the timing belt. As I recall you will need to remove the upper timing cover then rotate the Crankshaft pulley to align the cams to be on TDC. When on TDC you will need to loosen the tensioner adjuster bolt. Then rotate the crank pulley anti-clockwise 2 x until the TDC marks align, then retighten the adjuster bolt to 33 ft-lbs. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the help! So the shop that previously did the timing belt job screwed it up. The timing has been two teeth off for almost two years. The new shop redid it and it runs fine now. But now there's a new problem.. I checked the valves not even a year ago and only three of them were out of spec by very minimal amounts.. I adjusted them back in spec. The new shop said they were all too tight and that cylinder #3 had a mushroomed exhaust valve and has no more adjustment.. Says it needs fixed before it causes more serious issues.. Like I said, I checked those myself and they were fine less than a year ago. How do I check this exhaust valve he's talking about to see if it's mushroomed like he said. They want to charge my sister $1200 to remove the head and fix it, but I'm thinking they're trying to make some money...
 
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