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Discussion Starter #1
:mad:

Recently, I started my 2001 CRV A/T to warm it up after almost a week of not driving; while vehicle was idling, I took out the air filter and dusted it.

Then, the engine died while the air filter was out! And wouldn't start back up.

Diagnosis: Dead ignition coil. Sadly, I couldn't get to remove just the ignition coil because the screw holding the rotor down was totally rusted. Thus, I ended up changing the whole distributor with a used replacement but didn't set the ignition timing yet.

Engine started after this but with some rough idling, then died once I pressed the accelerator; would start up hours later and die once accelerator was pressed.

As I couldn't get a timing gun, I set the ignition timing (after jumping the SCS connector) using the Torque app on my phone while advancing and retarding the distributor unit till I got the recommended value of 16 degrees (+ or - 2)- as below:
Screenshot_20160516-071314.jpg
However, once I pressed the accelerator again, the engine went off and I couldn't start up. The spike, dip and zero value happened when I throttled.
Screenshot_20160516-071503.jpg

I later remembered I didn't reconnect the SCS before throttling this time around. I presume it will start-up later on in the day, as before. I hope.

However, if I reconnect the SCS and throttle but the engine still goes off, what might the cause?

Thanks for your help.

P.S. Sorry for the long story.
 

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Look up how to check for a strong spark without damaging the ignition coil. Even turning the engine over with the distributor cap off with the starter to line up the rotor screw without disconnecting power to the distributor, can cause an ignition coil to short itself out.
Same with checking the spark at a spark plug without grounding the spark plug.
http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1
Are you sure there is enough gasoline in the gas tank? Gauges are not always reliable.
Next time it doesn't start, pull a spark plug and see if it is wet. If so, then it indicates a weak spark or too much gasoline.
If it is dry, that indicates a lack of fuel. Since it starts after a few hours, it sounds like a weak spark which can cause the engine to get flooded.
Is it possible that your fuel filter is clogged up? Pretty easy to change, overall.
Also keep that battery charged up and keep its connections tight and clean.

Since it died while you were idling it while servicing the engine air filter, could it be that you left something disconnected ;ie tubing, etc or possibly damaged the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor or it connector?
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I checked all the connections- nothing seems amiss.
Could running the engine without the air filter have caused a MAP sensor failure? - just asking to know.
Waiting for replacement MAP sensor I ordered, anyways.

Thanks!
 

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I don't see how the MAP sensor could have gotten messed up with the air cleaner out and the car idling unless a dust storm hit or someone sprayed oil on it.
Then again, I am not that familiar with it.

Look up on how to check that the timing belt didn't slip a tooth or two.

Pull a spark plug after trying to start it and see if it is wet or dry.
Look for the 'proper' way to check for spark. It may be that the igniton coil is damaged.
Check out the link http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1 for ignition info, esp Page 2.

Throwing parts at it can be expensive.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Buffalo for your help.

Haven't checked the plugs- slightly skeptical they''d be the cause as I changed them sometime last year.

Meanwhile, I sprayed on some WD-40 on the screws of the sensor some days back to aid the removal for replacement; today, I removed and re-installed the intake manifold tube, started it up today, and I can't get it to stall. Pretty strange. And I haven't changed the MAP sensor.

I hope it won't stall when I take it out on the road- that'd be terrible.

Guess I'll hold on changing any parts for now and hope it doesn't happen again.
 
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