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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I am having issues with my 2001 crv. My check engine light came on and started flashing. It also idles pretty rough. It spat out a ton of codes including random misfire, individual cylinder misfire, and O2 sensor. I replaced the downstream O2 sensor and that got rid of that code.
It still ran rough and had all the same misfire codes. I looked up the P1399 code and saw that everyone says the crv valves have a tendency to recede. My car has 156k and I got it around 104k. I am going to assume they had never been adjusted. A couple of the exhaust valves were tight, and almost all of the intake valves were loose (I thought that was weird). I adjusted them all to the upper end of recommended specs.
Put it all back together and I changed the plugs (stock replacement) and that got rid of cylinder 1, 2, and 3 misfire codes. I had the car running and unplugged the injectors to make sure they were working. Injector 4 did not seem to working as the idle did not change when it was unplugged. I replaced that injector but was still getting cylinder 4 misfire and the p1399 code. Plug 4 is also covered in carbon now even though it is brand new. The lifters seem to be making a lot of noise as well. I also replaced the air cleaner and fuel filter.
Unfortunately this is my daily driver so I cannot give it a break.
There is a 2001 Crv in the junk yard near me with a complete motor so I could get parts off of that.
I was also thinking about buying a remanufactured head but I wanted to see what other people had to say before I do that.
Thank you
 

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Adjusting valves to the loose side of the specification is a very good idea. Plan on adjusting the valves each year.
The P030x and P1399 codes are all related to valve issues. The P030x series indicates which cylinder is having a problem, while the P1399 is a general error indicating a problem with the valves in one or more cylinders.

The noise the B20 engine in your CR-V makes when the valves are adjusted correctly has compared to the noise a sewing machine makes. And in the case of the B20, nosier is much better than a quiet engine, as a quiet engine makes the valves are too tight.

Unfortunately, it sounds like there may be damage to one or more of the valves, commonly referred to as a burnt valve. What it really means is that one of the valves has overheated because it was too tight, and partially melted.

A compression test won't tell you if there is a problem, only a leak down test will identify if you have a problem.
Finding a "spare" head and having a 'valve job' done on it, and then swapping it with your current head is one solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay thank you so much. I have not ever had to have a machine shop do work for me so I was wondering what your thoughts are.
I believe I can order a remanufactured head online for $500.
Do you know how much it costs to have a head rebuilt?
 

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I don't have any idea what it costs to have a head rebuilt.
If I were buying a remanufactured head online I'd want to have a conversation with the seller to find out what they mean by "remanufactured", and what kind of warranty they are offering. I'd also make sure it was from a 1999, 2000, or 2001 CR-V to reduce any incompatibilities between your 2001 and a 1997 or 1998 head. And if it includes all the gaskets you'll need to install the head.

And if there's a core charge that they'll refund when you send your old head to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info. Now I have a better understanding of what I need to look out for
 

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The intake valves become looser due to wear and the exhaust valves becomes tighter due to the valve seat receding.
So, quite a few recommend setting the intakes to the lower clearance level (tighter) and the exhaust valves to the higher clearance level (looser).
Did you try a compression test? If a valve is burnt or not seating well at all, there should be a noticeable loss or compression due to leaking, but, it is not leaking real bad, a leak down test would be needed.
Wouldn't hurt to use some Techron Concentrate, MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil), SeaFoam, Risilone or similar cleaner in case you have a sticky ring, etc.
There are ways to check for a burnt valve. Google for it.
Spark Plugs? Which ones did you use?
I have heard that the V-Power (cheapest of the plugs) NGK ZFR6F-11 worked the best on that generation CRV. That is a copper core plug and it is recommended to be changed at around 30k miles.

Many have had poor luck with Bosch or Champion ones.
Buffalo4
 
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