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Discussion Starter #1
My 2001 CRV AT revs without moving the vehicle- after driving for a while- like the gear suddenly disengages from the engine.

The problem started after I had the steering rack replaced due to a leak. During the replacement, it seems the AT transfer case had to be removed to make way for the rack replacement.

While driving in traffic a few days after getting the car, the car suddenly refused to move- just revved as I pressed the throttle. After switching off and restarting, the car seemed to reset and the problem abated for a while to resurface a few miles later. I had to keep 'resetting' this way until I got home.

I did an ATF change (DW-1), but the problem remained. Dragged it to the mechanic, who suggested cleaning the screen inside the transmission.
Screen cleaned. Still no luck.

Next option suggested is a rebuild or replacement. I would have thought these transmissions are built to last beyond 380,000km??

Any pointers to what could be the problem??

Thanks.
 

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If it ran fine before the steering rack replacement, and subsequent trans removal/replacement, it sounds like something wasn't put back together correctly or a sensor wire isn't hooked up right.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh yes, it ran fine before that.
And it does run fine- for a while. Only after a couple of miles does the problem resurfaces.

Anyone had this kinda experience and eventual solution?
 

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As what 20CRVEX13 mentions that double check all of the electrical connectors for looseness , corrosion & improper installation. You could have missed something. Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A check was done 2nd time I had the transmission 'touched'- to clean the screen inside; nothing seemed to be amiss.
 

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See if your shifter will go down to the 2 and 1 gears. If it gets jammed up the linkage cable needs cleaned and lubed under the cover plate where it connects to the bottom of the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The shifter goes across all gears (1 & 2 inclusive).
Even during the revs without motion, I changed gears to see if 1 or 2 would pick but no. The car only moves after switching off, resting for a few secs or mins and restarting.
 

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You need to physically break/re-make all the connections of all the electrical wires that would have been touched when the work was done. Don't just 'look' at them. Something isn't talking to the computer correctly, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, no electrical connections were disconnected and reconnected-according to this mechanic. Just mechanical unbolting and bolting.

As it stands, looking at a replacement transmission - :mad:
 

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I'll leave it to others more familiar with your model to comment on whether or not you can actually do that work without disconnecting any wires, but, something smells fishy to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, I got the transmission changed however, I now have a 'newborn' to handle- a P0131 code has surfaced, car has stalled twice while I left it idling for too long.

Reading the voltage on the Torque app shows zero. Am I looking at bad sensor or possible wiring connection problem?

I mean, this code wasn't there before the transmission replacement.
 

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How many miles between the tranny change and the code showing up. It is possible that the connector for the O2 sensor is not on tightly as it might have been disturbed when the tranny was replaced.
That code indicates a failing primary (closest to engine or upstream) O2 sensor. If it is malfunctioning, it can cause too rich a mixture and could cause your engine dieing on long idles. A rich mixture can shorten the life of the catalytic converter (fairly expensive to replace).
Check the connector to the O2 sensor to see if it is clean and not oily. If oily, clean it thoroughly and reconnect it and see if the light goes out. Not sure of why you are getting zero voltage reading on your Torque app. Check the O2 sensor connector first.
Put your code in the search box in this forum.
Research that code on Google also.
http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0131-and-P0137
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/14lzz-obd2-error-code-p0131-2001-honda-crv.html
Another thing that can cause engine idle and dying problems is valves that need adjustment. If yours have never been adjusted, it is time. Not to difficult to do and there are how-to's in this forum and on youtube.
If you are going to replace the O2 sensor (pretty easy except for breaking it loose) yourself, buy a Denso and not Bosch online.
Here is one such link, you may find better prices and double check for the proper part number for upstream :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DENSO-Oxygen-Sensor-2344011-Acura-Honda/281595711844?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=d96584c9b61c46e6af8cfa2eeb45d507&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=111139100427&rt=nc
Most common fix is replacing the primary O2 sensor, but that doesn't mean it is the cause of your problem.
Buffalo4
PS: Sad to hear of all the recent problems you just had: steering rack, transmission, wow!
 

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I think a 0 v reading can happen until the engine goes into 'closed loop' mode. This won't happen until the engine warms up some.
Open loop mode is a rich mixture mode. Perhaps an engine coolant temp sensor is bad and not telling the computer that the engine is warmed up or similar.
I think a vacuum leak can also cause open loop problems. Check to see if the pcv hose is disconnected. It is possible that it happened during some of that work that was done recently.
Best of luck,
Buffalo4
 

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so I've got a 99 4wd, it was doing the weird false neutral thing you were describing. I pulled the trans, I believe there were 6 electrical connectors to the trans and had to remove the first o2 sensor. After I opened the trans up I saw that the internal filter had been completely clogged by very very fine metal particles almost a metal paste. it came from the carrier housing in the trans the spider gears had sheared off and been ground up in the trans. I replaced the carrier housing and cleaned the filter. it drove like new for about 15 miles before dropping the false neutral crap all over again, what I did wrong, I never cleaned out the trans or torque converter and I am not pulling the trans again so tomorrow morning I will be using a borescope to find the exact location of the trans filter and drilling a hole straight to it to clean with ease after cleaning I will tap fresh threads and insert a new drain plug. if this works I will be the first person to successfully log the remedy that doesn't cost a $3,000 trans job. hope this was helpful.
 

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another note, there a complete service manual for our gen. cr-v for free download on hondatech just type "99 crv service manual" into google. when it opens in adobe reader or acrobat or whatever you use I believe the automatic trans section starts on page 690
 

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Discussion Starter #17
PS: Sad to hear of all the recent problems you just had: steering rack, transmission, wow!

Thanks, Buffalo4!
Terrible chain of events indeed; the code came up same day as the tranny change, so I'm guessing it's a result of the work done- however, same way I thought when the tranny problem started after my rack was replaced. Thankfully, a sensor isn't as expensive to replace and I don't intend going back to the mechanic for that!

I did the valve adjustment around March this year and I rechecked for vacuum leak yesterday- PCV valve, filter housing hose et al; seems no leaks.

Will try to get at the connector today to check for oil or otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will be using a borescope to find the exact location of the trans filter and drilling a hole straight to it to clean with ease after cleaning I will tap fresh threads and insert a new drain plug. if this works I will be the first person to successfully log the remedy that doesn't cost a $3,000 trans job. hope this was helpful.
Now, this I would like to see the outcome; do keep us posted.

Staring at the torque converter lying on th ground by itself, I figured it might have been the bad part, as the gear parts all seemed in good condition, clutches and all...but then, I had paid for the replacement.:eek:

Btw, thanks! I got the manual.
 

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so the boroscope wasn't helpful at all, very disorienting actually. I drilled the hole this morning but missed the filter and ran out of time before the shop opened. plugged the hole and i'm going to give it another try tomorrow. I really hope I get it right I don't want the bottom of my trans to have 30 drain plugs in it. i'll try to link or post some pics when I get it right...
 
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