2001 CRV Tune-Up Maintenance Questions

267 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Duckin3d, 4 h ago

Duckin3d

Discussion Starter · 4 d ago (Edited)

I have a 01’ CRV EX AWD Automatic B20z with 183,000 miles that I’m about to do a bunch of repairs/maintenance on.

These are the repairs:

Front Inner/Outer Tie Rods Left & RightBellows
Front & Rear Sway Bar Bushings
Front & Rear End Links
Front Upper Control Arms Left & Right
Timing Belt/ Waterpump/ Tensioner/ Thermostat
PS/AC/Alt. Belts (maybe AC idler)
Sparkplugs & Wires
Valve Adjustment/ Cover Gasket / Grommets/ Tube Gaskets
Camshaft/ Crank Seal/ Distributor Gaskets/ Rear Cam Plug
Front Brake Pads/ Rear Brake Shoes (maybe Drums)
ATF/Rear Diff/Coolant/PS/Oil
Radiator Fan
Cabin Filter, Fuel Filter
Front Passenger CV Axle and Wheel Bearing/Hub (Bearing + Hub assembly to be pressed in at a shop close by)

And possibly:

Oil pressure sender switch
Oil Pan Gasket

So anyway my questions are:

1) When I do my Timing belt should I replace the driver side motor mounts ? or any others at the same time ?

2) my metric wrench set got stolen a few days ago, do I need combination wrenches or will a few adjustable wrenches and my Knipex pliers wrench suffice? Do I need a deep offset (60/45 Degrees) box wrench for the valve adjustment or will a regular 12mm combination wrench be okay?

3) Passenger door lock knob thing doesn’t pop up sometimes (using the dash button) Is there a fix to his or replace the door actuator?

4) Brake Dash Light comes on and off intermittently, but brake fluid level is fine. I saw on another thread about a rubber piece behind the brake pedal sticking ? Or could it have to do with the parking brake ?

5) There was a tiny bit of leakage around the auto transmission cooler line that connects to radiator, should I replace that hose ? Does anyone have the part number I couldn’t find the specific one (it’s the one on the right side if sitting in car)

Automotive tire Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Rim Bumper

Hand Gesture Finger Automotive tire Nail

6) Do I need to transfer this bumper stop thing on the axle? What’s it called and do I need a new one? The new CV axle I ordered from Cardone doesn’t have one

Automotive tire Wood Bumper Motor vehicle Gas

Also I bought the Aisin Timing Belt Kit (Mitsuboshi Belt, Aisin Timing Belt, Koyo Tensioner, Honda OEM spring) and Aisin Thermostat are these fine ? Should I get an OEM Honda Thermostat

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craig baconator

· #2 · 4 d ago

You can probably buy a metric set of wrenches pretty cheaply. I wouldn’t want to round anything off, especially the valve adjustment nuts. You can probably use a socket if you get it mostly tight and allow for the stew to turn a bit and then recheck and redo, if you don’t mind spending a long time. Edit: you can probably get it mostly tight with an adjustable spanner and then use a socket.

Whether you replace the motor mounts depends on their condition and your budget and whether you want to have to remove all the belts again and do it again.

I think the thing on the CV axle is a counter-weight and OEM axles are probably a lot better (maybe experienced people will comment).

I think you will be fine with the Aisin thermostat.

The leakage from the transmission line is probably the fitting leaking on the radiator. At least that’s what mine was and I had to replace the radiator. I put in a junkyard one. Maybe I’m crazy.

The dash brake light is the little red exclamation mark? That is th e parking brake light. My light would occasionally get stuck on too—I believe it’s worse in the cold.

With the door lock knob I’d try getting in there and lubricating the assembly and working it.

You may want to also think of your front oil seal while you’re in there, or at least inspect it for leakage. I couldn’t get the crank gear off so I gave up on that.

You may need the special Honda hex tool for the crank shaft pulley.

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Duckin3d

Discussion Starter · #3 · 4 d ago

craig baconator said:
You can probably buy a metric set of wrenches pretty cheaply. I wouldn’t want to round anything off, especially the valve adjustment nuts. You can probably use a socket if you get it mostly tight and allow for the stew to turn a bit and then recheck and redo, if you don’t mind spending a long time. Edit: you can probably get it mostly tight with an adjustable spanner and then use a socket.

Whether you replace the motor mounts depends on their condition and your budget and whether you want to have to remove all the belts again and do it again.

I think the thing on the CV axle is a counter-weight and OEM axles are probably a lot better (maybe experienced people will comment).

I think you will be fine with the Aisin thermostat.

The leakage from the transmission line is probably the fitting leaking on the radiator. At least that’s what mine was and I had to replace the radiator. I put in a junkyard one. Maybe I’m crazy.

The dash brake light is the little red exclamation mark? That is th e parking brake light. My light would occasionally get stuck on too—I believe it’s worse in the cold.

With the door lock knob I’d try getting in there and lubricating the assembly and working it.

You may want to also think of your front oil seal while you’re in there, or at least inspect it for leakage. I couldn’t get the crank gear off so I gave up on that.

You may need the special Honda hex tool for the crank shaft pulley.

yeah I bought the crank shaft holding hex Tool + the heavy duty thick 19mm socket.I’ll change it if it’s leaking but if it’s not leaking I’m not sure if I should.

the brake light I believe says “brake” in a oval light, I’m changing the brakes all around and doing a brake flush anyways just wanted to see if there might be anything I should be looking out for. Oh and I forgot to pick up Honda DOt3 brake fluid, will valvoline DOT4 be okay? I have some new bottles from last year

I wiped up the transmission cooler line spot so next time I’ll be able to pinpoint what’s causing it (if it leaks again)

On the CV axle, I don’t think it’s a counterweight because it’s made of a hard rubber, looks more like a bump stop to not allow the axle past the forks. But I searched and didn’t find anyone swapping it over or anything, I just want to know if it’s necessary

And yeah I’ll order the motor mounts ifthey look bad.And I’m just gonna get a cheap 12mm box wrench off Amazon or HF

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Duckin3d

Discussion Starter · #4 · 2 d ago

Does anyone know if that bump stop on the CV axle is necessary? Is there a way to transfer it over or if Honda sells a replacement?

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otto888man

· #5 · 2 d ago

Duckin3d said:
Does anyone know if that bump stop on the CV axle is necessary? Is there a way to transfer it over or if Honda sells a replacement?

Most likely no. The only way to transfer it is to disassemble the old one and disassemble the new one and slip it in.

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Realblag

· #6 · 2 d ago

The rubber donut on the axle is a vibration dampener. You can’t transfer it. Without it, you can possibly feel a vibration at certain speeds that is similar to a slightly out of balance tire. This is one of the reasons an OEM Honda axle is superior. Personally, I’ve always just saved money with an aftermarket and lived with the vibrations. Sometimes there are no vibrations.

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Duckin3d

Discussion Starter · #7 · 1 d ago

Realblag said:
The rubber donut on the axle is a vibration dampener. You can’t transfer it. Without it, you can possibly feel a vibration at certain speeds that is similar to a slightly out of balance tire. This is one of the reasons an OEM Honda axle is superior. Personally, I’ve always just saved money with an aftermarket and lived with the vibrations. Sometimes there are no vibrations.

okay yeah I tried finding an aftermarket cv axle with he dampener but there were none available and the OEM one from Honda was ~$300.

Theres excessive leakage around the boot ends(however no rips/tears) and the wheel bearing is shot. So Im replacing the wheel bearing/hub and a bunch of the suspension parts. Im installing a new Cardone axle for now, if there’s any problems ill try rebuilding the OEM one.

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otto888man

· #8 · 1 d ago

Duckin3d said:
okay yeah I tried finding an aftermarket cv axle with he dampener but there were none available and the OEM one from Honda was ~$300.

Theres excessive leakage around the boot ends(however no rips/tears) and the wheel bearing is shot. So Im replacing the wheel bearing/hub and a bunch of the suspension parts. Im installing a new Cardone axle for now, if there’s any problems ill try rebuilding the OEM one.

Excellent choice Cardone is one of the good ones. Many of the members reported Cardone is good not much report of Vibration. I would suggest to soak the Crank pulley with Penetrating fluid for at least 3 days before attempting to remove it. If you can soak it for 1 month in advance.

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craig baconator

· #9 · 1 d ago

Duckin3d said:
okay yeah I tried finding an aftermarket cv axle with he dampener but there were none available and the OEM one from Honda was ~$300.

Theres excessive leakage around the boot ends(however no rips/tears) and the wheel bearing is shot. So Im replacing the wheel bearing/hub and a bunch of the suspension parts. Im installing a new Cardone axle for now, if there’s any problems ill try rebuilding the OEM one.

Can they reclamp the boots?

I noticed during inspecting the axles that there was grease flung all over the place. I figured it hadn’t been for very long and there was no noise. They greased and reclamped it for me.

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Duckin3d

Discussion Starter · #10 · 14 h ago

craig baconator said:
Can they reclamp the boots?

I noticed during inspecting the axles that there was grease flung all over the place. I figured it hadn’t been for very long and there was no noise. They greased and reclamped it for me.

yeah if the axle isn’t bad I guess I could reclamp the boot end (it’s the small side). I’ll have to see when I get in there

Also does anyone know if I need an OEM key fob or will one of the “honda CRV” key fobs on eBay work? I found the original Honda security system manual/anti theft window stickers today and would love to have keyless entry (When we got the car it didn’t come with a key fob) But I read that all CRV’s came with the transponder module already under the dead pedal or left kickpanel.