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Discussion Starter #1
A little background here. I fixed my engine not starting last week by replacing the ignition coil inside the distributor (yay!) and was thrilled by doing that and saving money. However, while disconnecting the positive battery terminal during my work I accidentally shorted the wrench against the battery retaining bar. I heard a little zap sound. Not good. But the car started. Now the blower won't work at all. The AC light comes on but I don't hear the compressor or the blower.

I've done a fair amount of research which pointed me to the blower motor resistor and high relay. I've now removed the blower motor & resistor, as well as the high relay but I'm kind of stuck as far as how to troubleshoot these parts now. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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I would check every fuse under the dash and under the hood.

This doesn't really help you after the fact, but that reason right there is exactly the reason you always unhook negative first and rehook negative last. You never want to be playing with the positive connector while the negative is connected. Shorting negative to negative will do nothing. Shorting positive to unhooked will do nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I checked all the fuses under the hood. I can't seem to find any under the dash to check. Any specific place to look?

Yeah, I had a temporary memory lapse with the positive terminal thing. :)
 

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Check to see if you have any voltage at the terminals of the blower motor. I agree with Shryp it could be just a relay, that has gone bad. Let us know.
 

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Check fuse #17 (7.5a) in the under the dash fuse relay box. It powers the relay for the compressor as well as the heater fan relays. It also feeds the radiator and condenser fan relays.
That fuse/relay box is under the dash on the Driver's side.

BTW, that is why you should ALWAYS disconnect the negative battery terminal first. :eek:

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK. So I replaced the blower motor resistor but still dead in the water. Fuse #17 looks alright as well. Then, on a whim, I tried a different fuse in the #17 slot. When I turned on the fan knob I heard the blower start and stop suddenly. This can't be good... now I'm lost.
 

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Disconnect the fan motor and put a new fuse in and turn the fan speed knob. If it still blows the fuse, it could be the switch is shorting out. It is a trial and error process to narrow down if it is the relay itself, or the switch, or the motor, or the wiring somewhere in between. Do the simple things first.

Buffalo4
 

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You might have a bad or the motor brushes are going bad. Try to tap the motor with a hammer with the settings of the fan on high while giving it a good tap. Is it possible to check for voltage while the terminals are connected to the motor? Let us know.
 

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Well, it does sound like that #17 fuse did blow.
Fuse #17 just powers the 4 different relay coils, it doesn't feed power to the items that the relays control. IOW, it doesn't feed power to any of the fans, just to the relays' coils. It also feeds power to the 'blower motor high relay'.
So, if #17 fuse blows it must be a short in the wiring, or a shorted out relay.
Fuse #55 (40 A) in the under the hood fuse/relay box feeds the power to the fans themselves through the contacts in the relays.
Fuse #42 (40 A) in the under the hood fuse/relay box feeds the power to Fuse #55. so check that fuse also.
Look again at where you got that 'spark' and see if there was any damage to anything near.
I am using a '97-2000' service manual to get those fuse locations. You could probably search the Internet and find that same Service Manual in pdf format,for free, like I did, or you could just search for the electrical diagrams for your yr vehicle.
Does the recir light on your heater stay lit?
There is a troubleshooting procedure for an inoperative heater blower motor, but I can't copy and paste it with my setup.

All in all, remember that your radiator fan(s) will probably not come on at all, so overheating is a big concern. Post back if your radiator fan(s) actually do come on because that will eliminate a few things.

Buffalo4
 

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I suppose it is possible that a fuse did blow and then, when you removed the blower motor, the blower motor high speed relay and the power transistor, you caused the latest problem. You need to search online for a manual or a troubleshooting procedure.
Did the #17 fuse blow again or ?
I just looked again at the diagram and the #17 fuse also provides power to the 'mode control motor' and the 'recirculation control motor', which I believe just control air flow diverter flaps.
So check all three of the fuses I mentioned (not just looking at them, but removing them and using a continuity tester on them).
And remember my warning about possible overheating.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #12
UPDATE: Everything is working! The number 17 fuse was not blowing at all, guess I wasn't clear on that. And, yes, I did get a multi-meter out and test it (not just visually inspected).

Buffalo4 I appreciate your help but... maybe I came off sounding like an idiot but I am not. I'm just exhausted (I have a four month old to take care of). Of course I searched online for troubleshooting information. How else do you think I ended up here in this forum? I re-read my early posts and I can see how I came off sounding like I don't know what I'm doing. All I'm saying is don't be quick to judge someone when they don't say the right things. I've always been the guy who can figure things out and fix things that other people can't.

As it turns out the only reason that the blower wasn't working was because somewhere in my troubleshooting I misplaced the number 7 fuse (under the hood) while checking things. I'm still pretty sure that the resistor was the problem and once I put the number 7 back where it belongs everything worked fine.
 

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http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=11&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CE4QFjAKahUKEwii2umI8vTIAhVY62MKHYpkBHQ&url=http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/AH/ACR0101OM/enu/CR0101OM.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFlB3RPzorxDowLrbpZ0P8BZtwm8g

The above link is for a free owner's manual for a 2001 CRV, just in case you don't have one.
Page #289 shows fuse #7 (40 amp) that is for the "heater motor". My 1999-2000 Service Manual shows the "blower motor" fuse as Fuse 55 (40 amp) in the Under-Hood fuse relay box. Basically the same physical location but a different description and number.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have the manual already. It is confusing the way that they label the fuses since it goes 4, 3, 7, then 5. Very odd. That's probably what threw me off.
 
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