2001 SE 4AT 4WD @156k Questions!

1. There is a Gen1 service manual PINNED to the top of this section.

2. Standard ride height struts are available from several sources. Do an ADVANCED SEARCH for the brands you are considering. If you want to change ride height, SEARCH for those reviews too.
You can do a Google Search too. Use 2001 AWD replacement struts: CRVOC as your search terms.

3. A lot of the V's road noise is transmitted through the mountings of the suspension and sub-frame, so add-ons such as DynaMat will have a limited effect. Again, learn the SEARCH function here.


PS: Click on your avatar (upper right) and go to ADVANCED SETTING>VEHICLE DETAILS so that you can type your V's specs into your avatar...saves folks asking all the time...

WELCOME to the CRVOC.

CRoadster said:

First Post. Couple questions if anyone is willing to give their time and knowledge.

1) Where can I find/get a service manual for my year/trim?
2) I use the car for long stretches of road. Was hoping to get recommendations for better suspension parts as mine are worn. Willing to drop an inch of clearance.
3) Anyone who's done sound proofing to your CRV, please recommend me a good brand, Quality over quantity.

Any reply is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for your time.

Click to expand...

2- I've personally used Moog where I could. Beck/Arnley as well. Both seem well recommended here. Moog end links and bushings both felt like a sturdier part (in hand) than OEM, but your mileage may vary of course. Used Detroit Axel quick struts, but wish I had gone with something nicer personally. Fighting a bit of a suspension squeak now. Dont think it's caused by the struts themselves, but hate having to wonder if it is because they're cheaper parts.

3- I sound proofed some areas of the rear in preparation for a hidden Sub and Amp in the spare tire compartment, under the picnic table. Used one box of Kilmat ($60) which covered the body under the plastic bucket of the spare tire compartment, both sides of the cargo area under the trim (had to remove it to run the wires anyways), and the trunk hatch door under the trim. I had low expectations of the effect it would have, but the mats are fairly heavy and it definitely didnt hurt. Sound system sounds great and actually get much more sound from the rear speakers than I had previously- which I wonder if its a result of the deadening in those areas. I have another box on standby to use on the interior of each door the next time I have the panels off. I dream of doing the ceiling under the headliner and the floor under the carpet some day. I would imagine those two would have the biggest impact overall. There's a user here @JohnTaper who has a great thread about building out one of his Vs. I believe he covers deadening briefly. That thread is a great read on restoring some life to our Gen1s

Butyl damper, like kilmat or dynamat, is more a vibration dampener rather than sound deadener. Although stopping vibration helps with sound, the butyl stuff really only needs to be used on thin metal that vibrates like a cymbal. Like the roof, inner doors, inner fenders, hood, trunk, and wheelwells. On top of those is where you would put sound insulation foams and liners.

I could go on all day about sound deadening. I had good results with kilmat 80 mil butyl damper. You'll need the roller tools and cleaning the surface well and then using paint prep/ grease and wax remover is a must.

I used a few different thickness acoustic foams from a few brands. Different width rolls of foam tapes and tessa tape for clips and small rattles. It is alot of work and research to do it without being a waste of time, but it is a fairly rewarding end result and not all that unenjoyable to do.

I try to use moog suspension parts but i have used many brands with no issues. Just don't get the super cheap kits with everything included. I just don't trust cheap ball joints/tie rod ends.

Putting foam behind rear and door speakers makes a world of difference in the sound quality. That I can promise you. Butyl damper, then acoustic foam, then big thick pieces of foam speaker rings, baffles, or even polyester stuffing directly behind the speakers works wonders.