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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I recently adjusted my valves and had trouble getting the 10mm wrench on some of the front (intake) valve nuts. So I used a socket to tighten some of them down and check the screw head slot to make sure it did not move. I also turn the crank shaft through the whole procedure again and checked each valve with the .009 and .012 blade and all were fine.

Car runs good and a valves are a little quieter. Was surprised at how little adjustment was needed (210,000 miles).

Anyway, I got to worrying that perhaps the valves might work themselves out of adjustment since I used a socket and not a wrench. Any thoughts or am I needlessly worried about this.

Shoulda bought the special tool.

thanks!
Jack
 

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It doesn't really matter how you tighten them down. The main reason for using an open wrench is so you can keep the screw from turning. In fact, you should use a torque wrench and a socket after you are done anyway. If the valve gap is fine after final tightening you are good. They also sell 'go through' socket sets. It is basically a hollow socket that connects to a ratcheting box wrench. Useful for things you need to hold the center of, or for nuts on long studded rods.
 

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No need to worry. The special tool will make life a bit easier. Did you torqued the locking nuts to specs? As long as you tightened the locking nuts to specs, they will not loosened up. The B series engine valves have a tendency to tighten & loosen up after a while. Not the K series engine as the one you have. Honda engines loves valve adjustment I noticed if its done correctly it makes the vehicle happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks otto!

I did not use the torque wrench. Just tightened pretty good... twice.

Guess I should have?
Jack
 

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A torque wench is a good idea. Too tight and you end up breaking something. Too loose and they can come loose. Best option is to torque them all with a torque wench and then spin the engine over a few more times and give all the gaps a final check.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sat here and worried about the torque spec. .... so I got out my torque wrench and set it to spec (104 in lbs) and tightened some external 10mm bolts.

The checked with regular socket. I know I tightened valve nuts to at least 104 based on this test. I didn't bow up on them though, which was a good thing. Guess the real danger is over tightening here and tearing something up. 104 inch lbs is really not very tight.

Was thinking about taking cover off and checking torque but now I don't think that is necessary... thank goodness...its getting cold in arkansas... finally!

Jack
 

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Sat here and worried about the torque spec. .... so I got out my torque wrench and set it to spec (104 in lbs) and tightened some external 10mm bolts.

The checked with regular socket. I know I tightened valve nuts to at least 104 based on this test. I didn't bow up on them though, which was a good thing. Guess the real danger is over tightening here and tearing something up. 104 ft lbs is really not very tight.

Was thinking about taking cover off and checking torque but now I don't think that is necessary... thank goodness...its getting cold in arkansas... finally!

Jack
I hope you meant 104 inch pounds. Not 104 foot pounds. 12 inch pounds to a foot pound. I doubt you could torque, them to 104 foot pounds without them breaking. Sometimes however people don't realize there is a difference.
 

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I've never used a torque wrench when tensioning the valve keeper nuts. I guess my wrist is calibrated properly!


My Butt Dyno is highly sensitive, as well! I can tell when the car is 2 HP down.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hope you meant 104 inch pounds. Not 104 foot pounds. 12 inch pounds to a foot pound. I doubt you could torque, them to 104 foot pounds without them breaking. Sometimes however people don't realize there is a difference.
oops... i meant inch pounds.... just edited post to correct.

Yeah, I have two torque wrenches and had to mark them clearly with a black marker so as not to use the wrong one.

jack
 
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