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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone! I'm new here (and at being interested in automotive stuff) and I have a few questions!

I've been having this issue for some time with my 2004 CR-V (~140K miles). It's struggling in acceleration. When I push down hard on the gas, and go up pass third gear, it makes this high scratching/whirring noise. I'm not really sure what it could be but the car is overdue for a tune up. I took it to Midas for an oil change and they also did a diagnostic test. They said I had to replace these parts:

Alternator Serpentine Belt
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Struts
Oil Pan Gasket
Oil Sender

And do computerized 2-Wheel Thrust Angle Alignment. Plus I think I need new tires.

Can anyone tell me what that noise could be? Could it have to do with the parts listed or something else?

Also, which of these should I take care of first? (and which if any can be DIY)
 

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If the timing belt is the original, that would be choice #1 to replace, along with a new water pump : Aprox-$600.00.
When they do the timing belt/water pump, have them do a valve lash adjustment and change the alternator belt and ac belt if needed.
If the timing belt fails, it usually results in major engine damage.
The whirring sound may be the alternator belt, the ac belt or the alternator or AC compressor?
If it is an automatic, is the fluid clean and up to the required level?
Hopefully a CRV owner of that Gen will contribute to your post.
Don't know why they mentioned the oil pan gasket or oil sending unit unless they saw some leakage there. Unless you are losing a lot of oil, you can delay those items.
Struts? If the ride and bounciness seem OK, delay that also.
If you tires are wearing badly, then it would be a good idea to get an alignment when you get new tires.
Buffalo4
 

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Yep,I was totally wrong about the timing belt. The 2003 on up all have timing 'chains'.
Nice!!
So, acevedob, you got bad info from Midas. No timing belt change needed (your 2003 doesn't even have one) nor water pump change needed , unless it is leaking through it 'weep' hole.
So, it sounds like about the only thing you 'might' need is an alignment when you get new tires. If the tire place also thinks your struts need replacing, then you should consider doing so, because when you replace the struts , you need to do an alignment.

If you have been neglecting your oil (poor quality or wrong viscosity or way too long between changes) your timing chain may have stretched enough to cause poorer power. A good mechanic should be able to tell you with a couple of quick checks.
That whirring scratching noise could possibly be caused by a worn timing chain and/or a failing timing chain tensioner. (the chain rubbing against the case). I sure hope not.
If it is the timing chain, that would help explain the loss of acceleration due to the timing change it would cause.

COSMOS-1, I really don't know if the 2004 is a non-interference or not. It probably isn't, but since it has a timing chain, it will probably just stretch and go out of time before failing enough to cause engine damage.

I think all Honda engines below 3.0L are interference engines. Don't quote me. :eek:

Good catch, BTW!!! Thanks,
Buffalo4
 

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Looks as if they zeroed-in on an oil leak, too?

Often this can be resolved simply by cleaning (or replacing) the PVC valve. (If it's stuck closed, the crankcase pressure builds and the oil seeps out of various seals)


+++++++++++++

Regards your scratching noise:

Difficult to tell over the Internet, but if the serpentine belt is original, that (and it's tensioner bearing) might benefit from replacement.

Oh, and do that tune-up...it was 'due' at 100 - 120K miles. New Iridium spark plugs (as OEM), valve adjustment, engine air filter. And have the brake fluid flushed/replaced if more than 3 years since to last time.

No Check Engine codes indicated from Midas, right?
 

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Acevadob, I'm doing some diagnostics on the Wife's 2004 CRV today for a P1078, has about 110,000 on it. Some of the items listed beow could be a do-it-yourself job. The list you have is almost identical to mine and the struts have been on the back burner for about a year.

Alternator Serpentine Belt

With the correct tool for loosening the tensioner appears pretty simple, may want to replace the idlers and tensioner pulley

Timing Belt

Not sure about this one, need more information about the valve adjustment first, had one shop tell me it was not necessary..??

Water Pump

Have not looked into it yet.

Struts

I purchased a strut compressor tool off of craigslist, used once just need to buy the struts and have a list of wear items that I will replacing. If you do it yourself don't cheap out on a tool, the single bar type can be dangerous. I'm more than likely going with a Sachs strut and have a Rock Auto discount code. You'll get different prices due to the type of strut used, some come with springs and some come without The Sensen is the cheapest with springs so I'm shying away from those.

Oil Pan Gasket

May want to double check the drain plug, had the oil change done at the dealer and they failed to replace the gasket, it leaked within an hour of me picking it up. Took it back it and it was fixed immedialtely I had a big falling out with the dealer for a number items under the hood that should have been replaced during their maintenance since the car was new. Clean it first then check where the leak is coming from

Oil Sender

Clean the engine and then check in a day or so to be sure it is the sender.


One other item that should be looked into for the both us is the AC compressor, there a recall or a TSB on it and can the compressor only and the hoses be replaced IF it has not grenaded yet and sent debris into the condenser and evaporator..!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the info guys. Check engine light wasn't on when I went to Midas, but it has turned on periodically since then. It's been on for the last 48 hours now and I'm starting to get nervous. I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow or Saturday.
 

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acevedob, can you ask the dealer/mechanic for the DTC or stop by O'reilly's, Autozone etc. and have them scan for the code and post it.

Yeah, might be the VTEC solenoid code (which would cause poor acceleration when illuminated)

Anyway, no more guesses until you post the code up.
 

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Hope I'm not jackin' your thread too bad acevedob and hope this information is useful to you, took a drive to the dealer to see what type of resolve I could get from the dealer about the AC compressor. The primary visit was the windshield which I managed to get a Pilkington windshield as opposed to a China branded Safelite, what a joke those are they pulled a BS with me on my truck and I stopped the install in my driveway and forced them into a GM branded Pilkington windshield.

Back to the AC, I spoke with the service manager and nothing like someone feeding you line of BS to your face, lying in to put it bluntly. I was informed by him that their was in no way shape or form a recall, TSB of any sort for the 2004 CRV. Their however is/was a class action lawsuit years ago so I would suggest keeping an eye on the A/C compressor, if the compressor fails it will send debris through out the system doubling the cost of repair.

I also spoke with a small shop I purchase my Amsoil from and he suggested to replace the compressor only as did the dealer. My thoughts were to replace the hose assembly being 12 years old, still thinkin' on that one.

Now that I have the service mangers email address time for a nasty gram in the morning, never forget to grab a business card........

So to start with I'm gonna finish diagnosing the P1078, change the oil, have the windshield replaced tomorrow, replace the serpentine belt soon and do some looking around on the idler and tensioner.

Here are some links about the AC..

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/13-dear-honda-feedback-forum/4839-honda-crv-2004-compressor-issue.html

http://forums.edmunds.com/discussion/5273/honda/cr-v/honda-cr-v-ac-compressor-problems/p66

https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/1894-honda-air-conditioningcompressor-class-action-settlement/


With all that said who is the recommended online Honda parts supplier, also who makes the A/C compressor for Honda..???
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I was on my way to Autozone last night, and the check engine light turned off! I wasn't able to get the code! I'm not sure why the check engine light keeps turning on and off periodically. The guy at Autozone said it was "the computer resetting itself"...I'm not sure if that explains anything. Nevertheless, I'm going to my local mechanic to get the car checked (or should I wait for the light to turn on again???)
 

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Did the Autozone kid try to read the codes anyway?


Some of the more 'important' codes get stored in memory and can be recorded even if the CEL is gone. ( A friend;s Civic with an intermittently flaky Crank Position Sensor comes to mind.)



It would be best to read the codes with the light on. Being that it is intermittent, I'd ask your mechanic if he could read the fault on his diagnostic software if the light comes back on. (takes 5 minutes) Then, when you have your scheduled appt, he will have something solid to go after.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally got the code from Autozone. It's P0325.
They suggested I buy a knock sensor. What do you guys think?
 
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