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We have a 2005 4wd SE and have always used Castrol 5-20 and changed every 5k miles or so. I'm thinking of switching to Mobil1 5-20.

Any concerns I should be aware of? Could I extend changes to 10k? Is the stock filter ok for 10k?

Thanks in advance.
 

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We have a 2005 4wd SE and have always used Castrol 5-20 and changed every 5k miles or so. I'm thinking of switching to Mobil1 5-20.

Any concerns I should be aware of? Could I extend changes to 10k? Is the stock filter ok for 10k?

Thanks in advance.
The stock filter should be fine. If you really want to be sure, have an oil test done by Blackstone at 5K and see what they tell you for YOUR vehicle. We are just giving you our opinions here which don't mean a whole lot more than the paper they are written on... That said, I have gotten 10K out of my OCI for the life of my CRV (100K) and have only used Penzoil Platinum. At 10K, the tests showed that I could have gone another 3-4K on that oil. I have always followed the MM system and taken it down to 10-15% before changing.
 

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Thanks for the opinions. I've searched all over this site and synthetic seems to be the right choice. I just bought a 2010 Tundra that I decided to switch to synthetic. It has 22k miles on it. I found a good deal at Costco and figured at $5/qt it was time to switch to Mobil1. I realized when I got home that 5-20 is what the V takes. Hmmm.

I've always used dino oil and remember things from way back that seals will leak etc... when switching to synthetic, I guess that's not a big deal anymore. As far as the drain interval, at $5/quart it would be no big deal to change at 5k, but I don't want to be wasteful. Even 7.5k would be great so I only have to do it twice a year.
 

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Having worked for A company that produced oil and oil additives, I would advise against ever switching to synthetic with that many miles. When using standard oil, carbon deposits are left on internal engine parts. They adhere so strongly that after many miles, the metal components begin to actually wear around the carbon buildup as if it was part of the engine. Synthetic oil has a strong detergent effect. It is designed not to "carbon up" and also will clean existing carbon deposits off of the metal. Since the engine has worn around those deposits, and now they're gone, what are we left with? Gaps between engine components. These gaps are prime spots for oil to leak through and get burned. I've seen numerous cars with less miles than you begin to use large quantities of oil after the owner switched to synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cigarguy, you brought me back to earth, bummer. That's the kind of thing about synthetics I remember from years ago. What do you think about switching to synthetic in my Tundra with 24k miles?
 

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Personally, I wouldn't do it at that mileage if it was my vehicle. If I don't use synthetic from the onset, I won't use it at all. I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles. At that interval, there's little chance of sludge buildup, which is the entire goal of synthetic. If you stay on a frequent service schedule, standard oil works just as well as synthetic.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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FWIW, I switched to synthetic on the Acura TL at 140K miles...simply because, at that time, Group III synthetics were cheaper to use because of the extended drain intervals.

Still no problems three years and 30K miles later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Carbuff2. I intended to switch to to Mobil1 which I bought for $5 a quart. Cigarguy kind of scared me so I went to my local Napa to get 3qts of my usual CastrolGTX and paid 5.29ea + tax.
 

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It is a roll of the dice at best. You may not have any issues, but I've seen plenty that have. Personally, I'm not willing to take the chance of creating a problem for myself. There isn't enough advantage of synthetic over regular to benefit me. I can get the oil changed at my dealership for $19.95 so I'd rather just change it every 3k and not have any worries.
 

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I have switched cars of mine with high miles with no ill effects. Never even heard of carbon deposits outlasting steel engine parts. Sounds like what may have happened to a '70's car. Regarding the coking of dino oil, doesnt that presume that it wasnt changed frequently enough? And what about cooking dino in SoCal temps? That stuff would turn to tar long before syn would break down. That's why they made syn. This is all without talking about fuel efficiency benefits of running syn. And I've been running syn in my daily driver for 10+ years and there are still some dark spots that I can SEE thru my oil fill hole that havent been washed clean yet. Cant imagine that syn would clean away metal if it hasnt cleaned out deposits yet. JMHO.
 

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I run synthetic in every vehicle I own.....including my quadrunners. Easier winter starting ( if you have to endure the cold ), more consistent viscosity, higher mileage between oil changes.....can't say I have ever had any issues with synthetic. I am even starting to run it in my two strokes and lawnmower.
 
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