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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone, thanks for reading.

I purchased a 2005 CRV EXL two weeks ago, and right off the bat it's had some issues. Most notably, immediately after starting it struggles, the revs plunge to ~200 and then it cuts out. The code reader gives the following results:

Engine - Permanent Codes
P0134 - HO2 S1 Circuit No Activity
P1172 - A/F Sensor Circuit Out of Range High
P1157 - HO2S (A/F Sensor) S1 AFS Line Voltage High

P2422 - EVAP CVS Closed Stuck
P0496 - EVAP PCS (CPV) High Purge Flow
P0325 - Knock Sensor (1) No Signal

Antilock Brakes
26-1: Lateral G Sensor Failure
62-1: Battery Voltage High

I understand that P0134, P1172, and P1157 are related to the O2 sensor, so I ordered a new upstream sensor, but when I went to replace it just now I saw that it was brand new, meaning the P.O. just had it done. The downstream sensor is still the original though - should I replace this too?

P2422/P0496 - EVAP could be from a stuck evaporation box, or from a spider web stuck in the box. I'm going to take it out tomorrow and clean it up. Could also be a new PCM, new EVAP cannister/purge valve, or purge solenoid.

P0325. From what I understand the knock sensors commonly go on this gen. of CRV.

Before I start at the top of the list, is there a logical troubleshooting order? Any thoughts on a common source to these problems?


PS: The VTC solenoid is known to be faulty (oil getting through gasket), and the AC condenser needs to be replaced, but I'll do that in the summer time.
Thanks!
 

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Welcome to the forum! I highly recommend investing in a Honda Factory Service Manual, like this one:

2005 2006 Honda CR-V Shop Service Repair Manual CD w/ ETM manual | eBay

I got mine from the same seller. Comes on a Disc in pdf form, its the full set of factory manuals. Contains detailed troubleshooting for all systems. Mine has easily paid for itself more than once. It will help with all this and everything else.
 

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I have experience with P0134. Although it usually is a bad upstream sensor, that is not always the case (as it was with me on my Toyota Corolla). It took me forever, but what I found was one of the wires that is part of the connector that plugs into the sensor had a short/open in it somewhere between the connector and the ECM. It starts off from the connector as a regular wire, but becomes a shielded wire shortly after that. That shielded wire was shorted/open somewhere along the line. I did bypass surgery. Left the compromised shielded wire in place in the wiring harness and got a replacement that I surgically removed from the junkyard and soldered it to wire coming out of the connector and led it across the engine bay and through the firewall and into the wiring that goes to the ECM. Problem fixed.
 

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im doing my vtec solenoid at the moment...easy job and the gaskets are cheap...also gives you the opportunity to clean it out....my knock sensor has gone too, bit more of a pain to replace but do-able if your ok with spannering....dont buy the cheap ones off ebay, they dont work ( i speak from experience )
 
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