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Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning to replace the front LCA Compliance bushing. Before I crack the bolts lose, what are the torque specs for the nut/bolt for the front and rear bushings, and the balljoint on the knuckle.

Thanks.
 

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I pulled pictures from the FSM but I am not allowed to link them up since I have no posts. Specs are as follows:

Both inboard bushings on front LCA: 61 lb-ft
Ball joint castle nut: 43-51 lb-ft

If you would like the original snips from the manual feel free to pm me for them!
 

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I just finished replacing both lower control arms. What fun - lot of lessons learned on the first side :( - second side went much better.

You'll have to disconnect the swaybar as well - the torque for that nut is 29 ft lbs

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #4
TJBart, it would be great if you could share a few lessons learned. Why did you replace the LCA vs. just the bushings? Mileage a factor? I was contemplating if I should do the whole LCA also, but I have 91k miles and the dealer said to only do the compliance bushing since the rear facing one should not be an issue.
 

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GTMAN

I replaced the lower control arms vs the bushings because it was easier. I don't have a local shop to press out the bushings and replace them. The forward bushings on both arms were completely separated. - I have 150K miles. I got AC Delco Pro arms off amazon for about $150 total. Very pleased with the quality of the arms and lifetime warranty.

On the first arm the hardest part was separating the ball joint. One of the videos I watched recommended a ball joint tool that had a lever arm that contacted the ball joint stud vs a typical ball joint/tie rod end/pitman arm puller (which I had). I bought the lever arm one off Amazon for around $25 and tried it. As I applied torque to it I expected the ball joint to pop but it didn't. I backed off and lo and behold the tool had bent the stud on the ball joint, I had placed a nut on the end of the stud to protect the threads - it bent just above the nut. I ended up whacking the arm with a BFH out of frustration to separate the joint.

One the second arm I used a conventional puller (not a pickle fork - don't use that), applied moderate torque to it, and smacked the lower arm with a hammer and the ball joint popped and separated. Took 60 seconds....

Alas, while whacking the first arm with the hammer I must have nicked the CV boot 'cause after a week I noticed grease all over the inside of the wheel and back of the caliper - so now it looks like I'll be replacing the CV shaft in addition to the ball joint.

Replacing the second arm only took about 20-30 minutes from setup to putting the tire back on.

I also replaced the strut assemblies on both sides a week earlier - if you need to do that - that was a simple task as well.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Cheers
Bart
 

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Discussion Starter #6
TJBart, Thanks for the great details. I did see the technique of applying pressure using a ball joint separator, and another with just smacking the flat spot of the arm carefully with a hammer. I have had an incident one one of my other vehicles when the ball joint separator would not pop the ball joint lose, and ended bending the ball joint threaded shaft. So now I'm planning to use a combination of separator and hammer approach.

On the strut replacement, any particular strut brand you recommend? What did you think of the ride compared to OEM after replacement? I'm considering to this with the LCA work so I wont need to revisit this area of the car later on.

Thanks.
 
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