Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of December's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, daughter reports horrible scraping noise when braking - boo, rear brake work time. I live in the Atlanta area, and we have a terrible problem with shops buying rust belt cars and trucking them in here. He said his Mom had been driving it... right. I've done brakes so many times over the years, I'm thinking this will be easy. Pads and rotors ordered: check. Car up on jack stands - check. Off come the wheels, take one look at the calipers, and I'm pretty sure they are original. Both frozen solid with rust. Order calipers: check.

So yesterday, I swapped all the parts out without any trouble (highly recommend the Harbor Freight Pittsburg Steel impact screwdriver - can't be beat for $8.99), and now start bleeding the brakes. I was very careful to clamp off the brake lines to minimize fluid drain, but I know the replacement calipers were empty - I expect some time to be spent bleeding. A quart later, I still have air in the LR line. And yes, I know to open/close the bleeder valve sequenced with the brake pedal. I'm keeping the master cylinder full, but I'm mystified where all the air came from.

I know the sequence is LF, RF, RR, LR - but I would not have expected to go through an entire quart....

Am I missing something, or shall I just persevere? :)
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
12,164 Posts
Gen2 brakes are susceptible to binding from rust and sticky caliper pins.

Got some extra brake grease? Clean and PACK the caliper slider pins (note that they are different top & bottom).
Then remove the pads and scrape or file the caliper metal UNDER the stainless steel guides. These can bind the pads. Coat under the SS guides with brake grease to prevent further rust blooms.
Your goal is to have the pads 'falling-out-loose' when reassembled.

++++++++

Now, on to bleeding:


The ol' mechanics trick of lightly tapping the 'empty' calipers as you bleed will serve to purge stubborn air. In some cases, you might need to un-bolt the calipers and let them hang with the bleeders UP while bleeding. A single quick pump of the brake pedal might help as well (but don't pump down to the floorboard). <--- Floorboard = another antique term, LOL

Finally, you might need to take the car onto the road to 'exercise' the ABS pump (in case that is blocking the path to the one brake). It will self-test the first time you go faster than 10 MPH.

Post back with progress!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Appreciate the comments. The calipers I bought same complete with guides, the entire assembly is new, clean, shiny and lubricated, and nigh, pads falling off. So, I'm good there.

Good ideas about tapping and possibly hanging them with the bleeder valve up. Never heard those before.
 

·
Premium Member
2005 and 2006 EX AWD
Joined
·
522 Posts
make sure the left and right caliper is in the correct position the bleeder is on top,finish the brake job mount calipers and open only one bleeder at a time usually start on RR or LR it don't matter what order then' keep the master full don't touch the pedal while gravity bleeding usually 15 minutes each wheel then have a helper on the brake pedal push the pedal down (don't pump) open the bleeder and close it before they let off the brake pedal ( dont pump)just yell push down and OK when they are to let up on the brake ,do that 2 times on each caliper including the front calipers and all should be good ,the trick is the gravity bleeding part . if you want to you can put a small rubber hose to a container on each bleeder ,I just put a bucket under the wheel that's being bleed without hose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
make sure the left and right caliper is in the correct position the bleeder is on top,finish the brake job mount calipers and open only one bleeder at a time usually start on RR or LR it don't matter what order then' keep the master full don't touch the pedal while gravity bleeding usually 15 minutes each wheel then have a helper on the brake pedal push the pedal down (don't pump) open the bleeder and close it before they let off the brake pedal ( dont pump)just yell push down and OK when they are to let up on the brake ,do that 2 times on each caliper including the front calipers and all should be good ,the trick is the gravity bleeding part . if you want to you can put a small rubber hose to a container on each bleeder ,I just put a bucket under the wheel that's being bleed without hose
Yeah, I'm there. I have not tried the gravity bleeding, about to give it another go. The calipers don't have that much volume, so pushing a qt of fluid through the system makes me suspicious.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
12,164 Posts
I have not tried the gravity bleeding, about to give it another go.
Another bleed strategy (that allows one-man hydraulic bleeding) is to buy a vacuum bleeder. The one pictured sells for ~$25 from Harbor Freight but they have a coupon with an $18 price, currently.


The calipers don't have that much volume, so pushing a qt of fluid through the system makes me suspicious.
Once the fluid color lightens up (indicating 'fresh' fluid flowing out) you should have been looking for the cause. My rule of thumb is ~20 oz. of fluid through any brake line is enough to start looking for WHY.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
~20 oz of fluid - well the why is not about where the fluid is going - it's where is the air coming from? I became frustrated and decided to go bleed the right rear. 4 pedal presses, no more bubbles and the fluid was clear. I go back to the left rear and it's still sending bubbles. But the brake pedal seems firm. So I buttoned everything up and took it out for a drive, very cautiously at first followed by several panic stops from 35mph, 45 and then 55. No pull, car tracked fine, no fade, no ABS lights.

I think that the air might have been coming at the nipple / hose interface. My drain line is not clear, so I cannot conclusively prove this.

I'll monitor. Next time I have to do this, I will buy that bleeder thing from HF. I appreciate all the suggestions.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
12,164 Posts
think that the air might have been coming at the nipple / hose interface.
You could pinpoint this condition by sealing the union temporarily with grease.

But, if the brakes feel firm it is probably an air bubble.
Drive it a day or so and see how the brake pedal feels. If you think that one side is not working, verify by comparing the temp of the center of the rear wheels immediately after a few hard stops.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top