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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a used 2006 SE with 122,000 miles on it. During the test drive, I only noticed a slight vibration that felt like a tire out of balance, but never really took it over 40 mph, nor accelerated hard at a higher speed. After having the tires balanced and rotated, the problem persisted, and we became aware of it much more. Between maybe 30-60 mph, under load, the passenger front side shakes BAD, and seems to shake with the vehicle speed. The more throttle I give it, the worse the shake gets. At around 60mph, it smooths out completely. We have quite a few hills here in East TN, so feel the shake alot when going up then. Coasting down hills, at the same speed, no shake, smooth as a babies bottom.

So far, I have seafoamed the engine, changed the sparkplugs with ngks, changed the engine oil with genuine honda oil, rear diff fluid with genuine honda, and transmission fluid with genuine fluid (need to change the trans fluid a few more times, old fluid looked like used motor oil!). I have been reading that several have fixed the problem by replacing the front axles. The question I have is some have had good luck with aftermarket axles, some have not. Which aftermarket brand is known to work the best? I don't feel like forking over nearly $1000 on genuine Honda axles for a car I just bought.

The next problem we have is HORRIBLE gas mileage. This thing is rated at 22/29. I live in a rural area, so rarely come to a stop once I start rolling, and usually travel at speeds between 45-55 mph. We have averaged between 18-20 mpg! This is after the tuning up, which improved it by about 2 mpgs, and the rest of the fluid changes didn't improve it at all. Could the axle issue be causing the poor mpg as well?
 

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Welcome to the forum. Congratulations on your new purchase. When accelerating at 60 mph do you feel any vibes? You mention that the front passenger shakes bad. Try to swap the front right to rear right or Even the the spare if its in good condition & balanced. If the problem persist it could be as you mentioned the CV shaft problem. Theyre are many aftermarket good ones. To name a few Mevotech, Cardone. I believe Cardone has a few different levels of quality. I would suggest to go for the better ones. For replacing the ATF be sure you only use Synthetic OE DW-1 or Valvoline Max Life fully Synthetic many owner's have good success with them. I have used the Valvoline & Mobil 1 with great success. If you want to save some money i would suggest to flush the tranny with regular atf then use the Valvoline Max Life in the last fill up. What's you odometer reading? Have you replaced the O2 sensor upstream? What NGK plugs did you use? Be sure you only use direct fit O2 sensor. Preferably NTK or Denso sensors. These vehicles does not usually like Bosch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Finally got around to doing the axle swap. Using a Cardone brand shaft, no luck. Took me 2 days to get it swapped because I couldn't get the lower ball joint free. Pretty sure I tore the boot on it too using a pickle fork to no avail. Will take it to a shop to get it replaced, not dealing with that headache myself. Ended up pulling the whole strut out to make room to get the axle back in. Also had to pull the entire half-shaft assembly out to free the axle from it. With the new axle, there is no change in the shaking. I had the tires rotated and balanced, no change in the shake. I did notice after removing the brake caliper, the inside pad is wearing pretty unevenly. It seems the lower slide bolt is seizing up. I pulled it out, cleaned the grease off, and regreased it. It improved a little, but not much. When we accelerate at 60mph, there are no vibrations. I haven't attacked the issue of the MPG, waiting to fix the shake it has. At times, the shake is pretty frightening!
 

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What is the condition of the spare tire? Have you balanced it? If its in good condition, has not been touched , check & see if the tire pressure is appropriate install it to the side where you replaced the drive shaft & see what happens. There could be a slight possibility that the drive shaft you got is also defective but its very rare. I suspect that its the tires are out of balance as the balancing machine is out of calibration or the rims are badly bent. I agree with you. You do not want another headache of dealing with the lower ball joint. Honda Lower ball joints are a paint to remove. Have you tried drive torquing the engine? I suspect that the engine is fine. Except for the fuel consumption. Let me know. I am here to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What is drive torquing?

Spare tire looks like it has never been used or replaced. Has the Bridgestone Dueler tire on it. Put it on in place of the Kelly tire, and saw a decent improvement, though there was still some shaking, but not as scary. Is it normal for the CR-V to pull hard to the opposite direction if one tire is replaced with a new tire? When I put the spare on the front passenger side, and would floor it, it would pull pretty hard to the left. On another note, anybody ever had the Kelly Tires on their CR-V? They seem to grip good in the snow, but the quality of the tire looks horrible. Is there an at home method to check for a bent wheel, or can I have a tire shop check the wheels when they put on new tires? The wheels do have a few scuff marks on them from where they have been curbed. I think I'm going to look at putting a set of new tires on it as well as new brake pads and rotors and see how it feels then. I really appreciate the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got 4 new General Tire RT43s put on today, and learned a few things. One, these tires really improved the road noise, much quieter, they handle really well too. Two, the tires that were on it were all re-caps. The 2 tires I had payed attention to happened to be Kelly tires, one other one was a Goodyear, and the 4th didn't have a brand name on it. They all had the same exact tread on them, and the shop showed me where you could tell the original tire ended, and the re-cap tread was placed over it. The bad news, the shake is still there, with no improvement. Not sure where to go with this now. Anybody in the Knoxville area the has some spare wheels I could try to see if the wheels are the problem? I think I'm going to have to take it to the dealership and have them figure it out for me. I am beyond frustrated now.
 

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Before you do that, have you checked the engine mounts to make sure they're OK?

Just re-read your first post, the vibe happens under load so the motor mounts will come into play in that situation.
I think it's worth checking them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was able to look at them all before, they all looked fine, no tears. Is there a way to check them under load?
 

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It's dangerous, but yes, you can.
Block the wheels well, set the parking brake TIGHT, and with the engine running, hood open, have someone put it in gear, foot on the brake and LIGHTLY rev the engine. This will show you if the mounts really have the engine tied down tightly.

I don't think you can 'see' tears in a mount unless you were to jack up the engine and take the weight load of the engine off the mount.

Be careful! Don't stand in front of the car while doing the above. USE COMMON SENSE!
 

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Just bought an 06 SE, drove it KC to St Louis and back. Slight vibration, 40-65 mph. My mechanic suspects an oit-of balance wheel, but I'm wondering (I realize this conversation is 4 years old), did you find a resolution?
 

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Can be a list of things. First place to always check is tires.

Beyond that just let your mechanic figure it out, dont try to use anything you read to discuss with them much. It's actually quite annoying. The list of possibilities is quite long. Bearings, struts, CV axles, propeller shaft, wheel, tire, I can fill up half this page with possible causes.

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Just bought an 06 SE, drove it KC to St Louis and back. Slight vibration, 40-65 mph. My mechanic suspects an oit-of balance wheel, but I'm wondering (I realize this conversation is
 

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Can be a list of things. First place to always check is tires.

Beyond that just let your mechanic figure it out, dont try to use anything you read to discuss with them much. It's actually quite annoying. The list of possibilities is quite long. Bearings, struts, CV axles, propeller shaft, wheel, tire, I can fill up half this page with possible causes.

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Thank you sincerely for your cautionary approach. I am blessed with an intuitive, extraordinarily fair mechanic, now a 35 min drive away, but indispensible . There was a manufacturing flaw (a split subframe on the right) in my '05. Scheit happens. I'll drive this '06 till it tells me we're done
 
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