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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI everyone first post ,hoping someone can help.Just got a new to me 2006 EX Auto 5spd 175k km (108k miles) 1 previous owner and generally very good condition love the car but..... didnt notice really on test drive as was in traffic and unable to accelerate as fast as i would have liked ,car shakes/shudders on acceleration most noticable around 60-80kmh possibly more on hills with acceleration aswell.
Gears change smooth and no other noises or grinding driving straight or cornering.
Have changed ATF fluid it was very dirty dark brown.
Have put new inline transmission filter ,changed ATF Fluid with GENUINE HONDA 3 times now has 4th lot of oil in which is now clear.
Shudder has improved but still definitely noticable and annoying.
Is it likely to need a new torque converter or is there other things to check?
Any help greatly appreciated before i head to mechanic which i cant afford right now.
Im intending to buy scan tool could there be any codes for shudder related items?
Cheers Jamie
 

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Last 2 vehicles i change were past 180k Km... It was their 1st time but surely they needed it.
One the rubber was rusty and cracked. The other was hydrohydraulic and oil was coming out...
The third had symptoms like yours and we were able to tell that change was needed after putting the old one and the new one side by side, old one was shorter by ~3mm...
If you flushed 3x the trans oil and gear change is smooth don't bother any more with it.
And don't get cheap with mounts it is rubber on metal and of course subjected to heat and cold...
I mean if there are 3 mounts for the engine and 1 for the transmission, change ALL of em

Sent from my BBD100-1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Last 2 vehicles i change were past 180k Km... It was their 1st time but surely they needed it.
One the rubber was rusty and cracked. The other was hydrohydraulic and oil was coming out...
The third had symptoms like yours and we were able to tell that change was needed after putting the old one and the new one side by side, old one was shorter by ~3mm...
If you flushed 3x the trans oil and gear change is smooth don't bother any more with it.
And don't get cheap with mounts it is rubber on metal and of course subjected to head and cold...
I mean if there are 3 mounts for the engine and 1 for the transmission, change ALL of em

Sent from my BBD100-1 using Tapatalk
I will definitely have a look at the mounts tomorrow.Have also read alot of people talking about inner cv joints can cause shaking aswell.
I have seen the rear diff mounting has some cracking not sure if that would add to/cause this problem.
 

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HI everyone first post ,hoping someone can help.Just got a new to me 2006 EX Auto 5spd 175k km (108k miles) 1 previous owner and generally very good condition love the car but..... didnt notice really on test drive as was in traffic and unable to accelerate as fast as i would have liked ,car shakes/shudders on acceleration most noticable around 60-80kmh possibly more on hills with acceleration aswell.
Gears change smooth and no other noises or grinding driving straight or cornering.
Have changed ATF fluid it was very dirty dark brown.
Have put new inline transmission filter ,changed ATF Fluid with GENUINE HONDA 3 times now has 4th lot of oil in which is now clear.
Shudder has improved but still definitely noticable and annoying.
Is it likely to need a new torque converter or is there other things to check?
Any help greatly appreciated before i head to mechanic which i cant afford right now.
Im intending to buy scan tool could there be any codes for shudder related items?
Cheers Jamie
Get the tires changed
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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12,595 Posts
Since the symptoms changed after you replaced the trans fluid, it IS probably the trans.
Glad you were you able to find Honda DW-1 fluid. It has unique friction characteristics.

+++++++++++++++

There are other avenues of attack:

At your mileage, the spark plugs are due to be replaced (use OEM style Iridium plugs), and valve-lash should be checked.
Just thinking out loud.
 

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2018 EX-L fwd
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1,068 Posts
Old method of testing motor mounts:
Find a large, immovable object such as a mature tree.
Open & support your hood/bonnet so that engine is visible in the gap between hood and front cowl.
GENTLY move vehicle forward until it touches the immovable object [IO].
While watching the top of the engine & engine in gear, SLOWLY accelerate the vehicle against the IO.
If mount/mounts are good, the engine will move slightly.
If the mount/mounts are bad, the engine moves excessively. Replace all at the same time.

Another method:


Another showing before & after replacing mounts [around 4:00 time]:

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok seems like quite a few possible causes good info coming through thanks!Been a few years since i had an older car that i could fix and diagnose at home.
The tyres are relativily new ,budget brand but over half tread left wear looks pretty even.
I have noticed a slight pull left when driving.(not had alignment checked only just got car)
I noticed sometimes a slight clunk going from park to drive and slight vibration in steering wheel with foot on brake.I will definitley check mounts.
Im wondering if theres multiple issues and doing atf helped with one of those,seems most people dont end up having to replace torque converters and fluid change usually resolves(im sure id be the unlucky one that needs new one🙄)
 

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2016 CR-V EX 2.4 L Gasoline
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Adjust the valves and put a new set of spark-plugs in it. It may be the sparkplugs. But with that many miles it is time to check and adjust any valves out of speck, and you have to remove the sparkplugs to do that job, and at that many miles they are due to be replaced, and worn sparkugs can cause the symptoms that seem like the transmission it's not working properly. It is by no means a definate that this is your problem, but it very well could be.

There was a recent thread where someone bought counterfit sparkplugs on Amazon and after about 6K miles had trany shutter and it was bad sparkplugs that caused the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well the transmission mount definitely had splits in it,so does hydraulic engine mount rubber and lower front mount cant see one at back of gearbox but ill assume that aswell,so will replace them all.
think there maybe play in the inner cv joint but it almost look like the play is in the mounting where the shaft comes through, could it be mounting bearing rather than cv joint itself?
Being in Australia Honda parts are ridiculously expensive no discounters on oem stuff so dreading the cost.Might have to start with the mounts
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Can't you get parts from Rock Auto, sent to OZ?
Not sure but i imagine postage will be too much.They sell aftermarket here and there pretty cheap just dont want to replace and find they still cause shudder.I see in US theres discount genuine parts you guys are lucky we get robbed for everything here😭
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The driveshafts have some up and down play where they enter gearbox on the short side and same play where it goes into the bearing carrier on the longer side is this normal ? i know its normal for small amount of in and out but not sure about up and down?
 

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Well the transmission mount definitely had splits in it,so does hydraulic engine mount rubber and lower front mount cant see one at back of gearbox but ill assume that aswell,so will replace them all.
think there maybe play in the inner cv joint but it almost look like the play is in the mounting where the shaft comes through, could it be mounting bearing rather than cv joint itself?
Being in Australia Honda parts are ridiculously expensive no discounters on oem stuff so dreading the cost.Might have to start with the mounts
I would suggest to start from inside out. Change all engine and trans mount first. This is what connects the vibrating engine to the rest of the chasis. Then move to the drivetrain and wheel axles etc. Leave wheel alignment and tyre check last.

Sent from my BBD100-1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would suggest to start from inside out. Change all engine and trans mount first. This is what connects the vibrating engine to the rest of the chasis. Then move to the drivetrain and wheel axles etc. Leave wheel alignment and tyre check last.

Sent from my BBD100-1 using Tapatalk
yep thats the way ill go with oem mounts be awsome if that was the cure but will see ,then save up for rest if that doesnt stop it
 

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1999 CRV Lx
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Once you replace all rubber mounts remove that axle you suspect has excessive play at the differential and slip your finger over the spline area. Is the fluid silver(ish) color or is it the same color as transm. Fluid.

Short story is, that is how mine is, silver residue over the inner cvaxle joint bucket splines. The one inserted to trans. Differential. I'm suspecting differential ball bearing race(output shaft bearing race) is shot.

BTW inspect upper control arm bushings and ball joint of suspected bad axle shaft side.
 

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HI everyone first post ,hoping someone can help.Just got a new to me 2006 EX Auto 5spd 175k km (108k miles) 1 previous owner and generally very good condition love the car but..... didnt notice really on test drive as was in traffic and unable to accelerate as fast as i would have liked ,car shakes/shudders on acceleration most noticable around 60-80kmh possibly more on hills with acceleration aswell.
Gears change smooth and no other noises or grinding driving straight or cornering.
Have changed ATF fluid it was very dirty dark brown.
Have put new inline transmission filter ,changed ATF Fluid with GENUINE HONDA 3 times now has 4th lot of oil in which is now clear.
Shudder has improved but still definitely noticable and annoying.
Is it likely to need a new torque converter or is there other things to check?
Any help greatly appreciated before i head to mechanic which i cant afford right now.
Im intending to buy scan tool could there be any codes for shudder related items?
Cheers Jamie
sounds more like a misfire to me. take a drive while looking at mode 6 misfires. Or just change the plugs if they are do and go from there.
 

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Well it certainly sounds like a bunch of good advice and to be honest, just about ANYTHING rubber in content is gonna let go eventually. I put a full set of mounts on my 1999 V months before I sold it, bought discount mounts from RockAuto because OEM were so expensive and I could get a complete set from RA for the price of a SINGLE discounted OEM Honda. Heres the rub, I had to MODIFY all those original fit mounts from the cheap guys and it cost me a LOT of frustration. I learned from there, do the right thing and buy the right part, OEM. Now in your case, I understand the frustration because it seems that every Honda dealer in Houston TX is out to double the price on all parts for DIY folks like me and a $12 qt of fluid because its Honda OEM???!!!! I buy online, but I can and you can’t. That said, I wonder if anyone in Japan is reselling and shipping your way??? Also, another thing to justify is the rising cost of ANY good and quality car, You got a good deal on a used but not used up CR-V presumably, and I can state after getting over 100000 miles outta my first V and sold it off for 1/4 the price I bought it at, you will have many smiles per mile on your purchase.. I currently have a 2005 CR-V and I too bought it from the original owner with a bunch of service records and I will not get upset at ANY bits that need attention as I am now at 88000 miles and I know I have preventative maintenance coming my way because I won’t have the payment or bills a new car costs. On a side note, my wife’s preowned 2014 RAV4 cost nearly 3 times more than my 2005 V, I am a very happy camper, but I am a cheapskate. LOL
 
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