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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I did a lot of research over the last few weeks & just got all of the parts in to replace/update the suspension in my 2006 PTAWD EX 5-spd MT.

Parts:
-Bilstein HD struts front & rear
-Dobinson 40mm (1.5") lift springs front (part #: C23-104) & rear (C23-105)
-3/8" spacer for the rear (to correct 1/2" rear end sag CRV's are prone to)
-bigger tires on OEM rims (still deciding how much bigger/exact size to go with)

Prior to doing this I decided to go to the dealer to run a diagnostic on my suspension to see if there's anything else I needed to fix/replace while doing this. As it turned out, I'll also be replacing ball joints & front sway-bar links (ordered both from Moog).

I'll post pics up once its done, but I won't be free to do it for another week or two.

I also found a pretty sweet deal on a Curt Class 3 (#13535) hitch so I got it to replace the class 1 which is on it now.
 

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fantastic ! looking forward to seeing lift pics and other pics with your mods. You may need a camber kit after lift ?? or just an alignment will do.
For tires I would suggest general grabbers AT2, they are fantastic tires off road and on highway.
I have firestone destination A/T on stock rims on my 07 CRV which are good as well, could not go with grabbers as no size available to fit stock rims for 07.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks vhercules. I actually ordered CMR's camber kit, but who knows if I'll get it remotely close to when I install everything else. I'm not too confident. I am going to get an alignment after I do everything for sure.

The General Grabber AT2's were exactly what I was planning on getting! I chose them because they've got great snow ratings, are quieter than other AT tires and are less expensive (& quieter) than BFG KO2's. The only problem is, like you mentioned, tire sizes since I'm using a stock OEM rim (16x6.5 with offset of 50). OEM tires are 215/65/16. So for Grabber AT2's its either 216/70/16 (which I wouldn't have even needed to lift to fit), or 225/75/16 which might be too aggressive. Though I am awfully tempted to go big, I don't want to take a big hit in MPG & acceleration especially since most of my miles are on highway/pavement. So I'll probably play it safe & get the 215/70/16's.
 

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yeah 225/75/16 might be much heavier and more work for the 4cyl in CRV. Grabbers are excellent, I have them on my Suzuki sx4 and they are great off road, snow and not very noisy on highway. Also no big mpg hit with the small size increase I went with.

Cant wait to see pics of you lifted CRV, the gen1 and gen 2 look great when lifted and with A/T tires. Will be great if you can get some before and after pics :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I definitely will. I think its going to happen next Friday. Initially, I thought I'd wait for awhile before even getting tires but I just got an email from eBay where DiscountTireDirect is offering $100 off for purchases over $400 until the 27th. For the grabbers that would knock the price down to under $100 each, for 4 anyway. Here's the link.

Do you have any recommendations on a camber kit? The only one I've heard of was from CRM but I've heard mixed reports on it. It seems far more people are into lowering than lifting. As such its a lot easier to find lowering springs & camber kits than for the opposite.
 

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Sorry, no experience with camber kits. Have seen a few on ebay and amazon but not sure how good they are. Maybe check with any reliable shop garage that does suspension work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Nope, I'm not lifting high enough to. If I was lifting 3 or more inches I might run into problems, but keeping it to 2 or less, its not going to be an issue.

I ended up ordering the tires off the ebay link I posted & decided I wanted to remove the plasti-dipped from my rims to paint them properly. So today, I had a great time trying to remove the plasti-crap from my wheels. Ended up using an entire can of WD40 to help dissolve it with a power sprayer in between & scotch-brite pads. Slicked up my driveway quite nicely & worried about greasing breaks, so I hit em with a bottle of brake cleaner, then wheel cleaner, more scotch-brite scrubbing and hours of elbow grease. They're cleaner that I ever remember seeing them & my brakes are fine. It was a fun time. Needless to say, it wasn't as easy to remove as the plasti-dip promo vids make it seem.

I still haven't received any shipping notification from Colorado Mountain Rally regarding my camber kit, so we'll see. I'm not sure how necessary it will even be so if it doesn't arrive in time I'll save myself the $100 and cancel it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Okay, some updates:
Next Thursday IS the day... I promise & I will post pics.

In the mean time trying to figure out hub centric spacers to compensate for the lift to reduce roll potential and increase handling. 20mm? 25mm? 30? 20 in front 25 in rear, same all around? Not sure. Too big can wear out bearings/axle. I bet there's some equation to identify 'for every mm of lift, it is optimal to widen the stance by X.'

On a side note, last May I got a little rear-ended which resulted in having to replace my exhaust right off & bent the spare tire mount down some. When I got my tires changed last week, two of the mounting bolts on the spare holder snapped off so I was running with it held on by one nut! I ordered a new one off ebay for $50 with free shipping & I installed it yesterday -pretty easy. I also tried installing a Curt Class 3 hitch and found that one side was off by an inch or two because the inner sub-bumper (which is part of the unibody) was bent in -also from the accident. So, tomorrow I'm going to tackle pulling the bend out with some 2x4's and a big c-clamp and installing the hitch.

I also just ordered a lower pitch horn (http://www.collegehillshonda.com/product/DL163-LT.html) because it was $10 with free shipping, should be an easy install and will hopefully eliminate some of the high pitched meep.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Unfortunately, it was a hellish few days. Decided to start with the rears because I heard they can be a nightmare since the lower strut bolts tend to fuse onto the bushing and it happened to both of mine. Had to take a saw-zall with a million blades to cut the bolt on either side of the bushing while laying deep under the V. Then (as if that wasn't fun enough) the nut is spot welded so you have to take a grinder and chisel to it for a while, again, inaccessible unless laying deep underneath it.

Then, my friend borrowed a heavy duty wall mounted spring compressor from a friend. We disassembled one spring assembly and one of the compressor's arms bent when compressing the new heavy duty spring. The fronts came out super easy. Then we cut all of the remaining springs off of the strut assemblies because I was recycling the top hats. We brought the new struts, hardware and springs to a few mechanics. The first got one of the rears on, but said it was too sketchy to do the rest. He said he had never seen anything like it before and feared he was going to break his machine.


Here's a pic of it assembled:
IMG_4741.jpg
Pretty sketchy. Stored energy like a cannon.
The next place simply said that it was too sketchy to do so we had them disassemble the one we got on.
At a total loss, I contacted Dobinson and they were awesome about getting back to me. Waiting on the Australian headquarters to respond hopefully Monday.


Then I took these side by side pics to show the difference:
IMG_4746.jpg
Has to be the wrong size. I saw another pic of someone doing this and the difference between the two was nowhere near as drastic.


Here's the fronts:
IMG_4748.jpg
Now this would clearly work without the sketchy hassle of those ridiculous rear springs.

So, now I'm without my daily driver until I hopefully get replacement rear springs shipped ASAP from Australia. I hope they make good on this and I'm optimistic. Luckily I have access to another car otherwise I would've had to spend more money on OEM springs which would've completely negated going through any of this and all of the money I invested, haha!
 

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Like I said yesterday via texts, Im sorry this happened to ya. That rear spring is clearly the wrong one for your application. Just sucks they are half way around the world and this is your dd.

Keep us up to date on what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will. Thanks again. Yeah, I felt so defeated. Then tried to trick myself into thinking it could work, and it very well could be installed, but it wouldn't be too safe and a harsh ride would be an understatement. It would basically feel like no strut/spring at all.
 

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I feel your pain man ! i have been following your thread with eager anticipation to see you lift your V and I can imagine the frustration, hang in there and hopefully u get the correct springs soon. from the pics the rear looks way off.
 

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BTW, you need the discontinued OEM front splash gaurds/mud flaps. 02-04 is different than the 05-06 BTW. I have a set of the 05-06 to get rid of here shortly. Tried them on a friends 03 and the inner spash shield is different and they dont work on the earlier years.

Anyways, just throwing that out there for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
BTW, you need the discontinued OEM front splash gaurds/mud flaps. 02-04 is different than the 05-06 BTW. I have a set of the 05-06 to get rid of here shortly. Tried them on a friends 03 and the inner spash shield is different and they dont work on the earlier years.

Anyways, just throwing that out there for ya.
Alright, I could be down with that.
 

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>> I also tried installing a Curt Class 3 hitch and found that one side was off by an inch or two because the inner sub-bumper<<

Do you get rattles during turns or rough roads after installing this? According to reviews, this has been experienced by a number of users. I have been thinking about installing one but I don't want to have to listen to rattles.

FWIW, multiple reviews also state that upon arrival their Curt hitch was not manufactured correctly and thus did not line up with the holes, so maybe your issue was not totally related to your accident.
 
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