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Discussion Starter #21
Try swapping the relay with one of your other relays as a test
Thanks - Each relay powers the high and low for one side through the same pin (1). The low beams work so it can't be the relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
if grounding the blue/red wire turns on the high beams, it should be a bad combination switch ,here's
some info PDF below
Thanks again for the PDF files. The wiring diagram is inconsistent with the text description and it appears that the diagram is correct. The description says that when the high beams are on (dimmer switch on High) the low beams "remain off because their ground path is interrupted by the dimmer switch." The low beam grounds do not go through the switch, they are routed to G301 and G201. On our 2006 Pilot and 2017 CRV the low beams remain on when high beams are selected, but to be sure I verified that the 2005 and 2006 CRV use the same headlight switch and then checked on my friend's 2005. The low beams stay on when the high beams are selected.

The Connector Terminal View was useful. I had traced the black and Red/Blue wires to the switch and determined that they go to pins 12 and 4 respectively. I pulled the switch and ran leads from my ohmmeter to 12& 4. The only time resistance drops to 0000 in that circuit is when the high beam position is selected on the dimmer or when flash to pass is selected. That's how I determined that the switch is not causing the high beam issue (we know that the black ground wire to 12 is good, otherwise the low beams wouldn't work). That leaves me with a bad circuit between pin 4 and the high beams. It's what I had assumed, but with this evidence I can just focus on the red/blue between the switch and under dash fuse box, the circuit from C7 to F4 internal to the fuse box, and then the one between the fuse box and and the high beams (from F4). At least I will minimize my time under the dash tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
@AJ52

I'll admit I haven't read all the responses in the post, but I have some basic questions:

Do the high beams and high beam indicator "glow very dimly" with headlights ON and low beams selected?

If YES, you have a power supply issue to one of the bulbs. Let us know and we'll troubleshoot that problem.

Assuming they DO NOT glow dimly with low beams selected, does operating the "Fash to pass" cause the high beams to work?

YES - Replace the combination switch.
NO - Ground the circuit in the order I have listed to isolate the open in the ground path for the high beams.

View attachment 137660
Thanks - we're on the same page (No to your first 2 questions) but I'm not sure how you arrived at the order for the ground tests. If there was a ground at your #1 the left high beam would work (unless there were at least two more faulty wires). We know that there is a ground at your 2 because that's the connection at the switch, which has been tested (unless it is a problem with the connector itself, which I would find by testing your #4 and then 2 if it fails at 4). So once I get settled under the dash, I'll check at the input side of the fusebox (c7), then the output, and if necessary at the junction of the 3 red/blue wires. I hope to get to it tonight and I will be sure to report my findings.
 

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Thanks - we're on the same page (No to your first 2 questions) but I'm not sure how you arrived at the order for the ground tests. If there was a ground at your #1 the left high beam would work (unless there were at least two more faulty wires). We know that there is a ground at your 2 because that's the connection at the switch, which has been tested (unless it is a problem with the connector itself, which I would find by testing your #4 and then 2 if it fails at 4). So once I get settled under the dash, I'll check at the input side of the fusebox (c7), then the output, and if necessary at the junction of the 3 red/blue wires. I hope to get to it tonight and I will be sure to report my findings.
I came up with the grounding points strictly from an observational perspective of the schematic with a lot of understanding and history of accessing the Under Dash Fuse Box connectors and the accompanying pins.

Let me explain the ground path of this circuit a bit so it'll clarify my thinking.

The grounds at both bulbs (B2) and the high beam indicator (B14) use the same ground path through the Under Dash Fuse Box (UDFB) via F4 and F5. From there the ground path continues down through the UDFB to emerge at C7 then onto the combination switch via P4, through the internal switches, out P12 then onto ground.

We know P12 at the combonation switch is supplying a ground since it also supplies the grounds to both relays via P7.

If you have an open below P4 in the combination switch, then the high beams should come ON when you ground it there. If you have an open below F4 and F5, grounding B2 at either bulb, B14 at the high beam indicator or even C501, P3 for that matter will "capture" where the open is and we can narrow it down from there.

As far actually grounding the B2 terminal at either high beam bulb, I would discourage you from back probing the water tight terminal and encourage you to disconnect one bulb, gently ground the B2 terminal and the opposite high beam and the indicator should come ON. At that point you can reconnect the bulb and perform the same step on the other side, and the other side with the indicator should now light.

You really do not want to compromise a weather tight seal if it can be avoided for obvious reasons.

Good luck, we'll get it figured out!
 
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