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Hi I have been searching for information on a gen 3.1 CR-V transmission, specifically I have a 2007 LX AWD trim with the 2.4l. Even under normal driving the dummy ecu would rather let the torque converter slip than downshift. It seems to me that this programming is aimed to sell the car because afterall it is a pretty smooth ride. But this slipping is only wearing out the torque converter and wasting gas. It would be more efficient and less damaging to just downshift if the car can't hold a certain gear at a given speed. For the past 80,000 miles or so the car has had a shudder, it has slowly gotten worse but is fairly avoidable and mechanic couldn't replicate so we never did anything about it. I have been paying attention, and it occurs when the trans shifts up into next gear but the vehicle speed is too low to realistically use said gear, thus it just slipps the clutch to increase engine rpm and power output in order to maintain speed. The shudder occurs at this point, when at constant speed when there is little pressure on the trans but it is still slipping. When towing (which I do alot more often than the average crv owner) it is basiclly constantly slipping the torque converter, unless I drive it in a mannor of stop and go so that it's accelerating in a lower gear, then coasting (locked up) in the higher gear. This leads to worse fuel economey as well as increased strain on the engine, but significalty less (I belive) on the transmission.

You can ignore the following paragrah if not interested in details. Long story short, I am seeking information on how to 1: control the torque converter lockup in at least 4th and 5th gear (idealy all of them) or 2: how to prevent it from shifting into 5th (which in turn will force it to lockup in 4th.

Here's the speficic senario's where I experience issues: First: drving between 41mph and 50mph, any load any time, it will shift into 5th and slip converter, and will shudder at constant speed. Above 50mph it locks up in 5th and no issues. (note that 5th gear 50mph equals exactly 1500rpm). Second: around 33 to 36mph it will be in 4th, and slip converter and shudder at constant speed. Below about 30mph it stays in 3rd gear and does not lockup but does not shudder either so that's okay I guess. Between 37 and 39mph it tries to lockup in 4th, ocasionally if going down a slight decline it will lockup fully, but on level road it bounces between a 200rpm range, lockup and slight slip, no shudder but it would still obviously be better locked up. (i have read of others noticing this senario from day one) At less than 50mph I ussauly keep it in D3 so that it does not shudder, but it's aweful annoying to keep hitting the button. I wish it would just lockup in all gears, like the 6spd pilot my dad has. It's my understanding that part of the gen3 2011 facelife introduced a transmission that locks up in maybe all but definitly 4 and 5. There is little information on this, and I have never drove a 2011. Now when towing: I always use D3 around town, but 3rd puts it at 4800rpm at about 65mph. That's just an unreasonably taxing on the engine if on level road. Although note that going up a hill while towing two dirt bikes does require near full therrotle to maintian 65mph, and thus the crv will shift into 3rd on its own. At constant speed, in D, on level road, with even just one bike in tow (750lb with trailer) the stupid computer will shift into 5th, breifly attempt to lockup, can't hold it and have to slip converter, then it ussauly can't even hold that so it will go into 4th and slip converter, accelerate back to 65, shift into 5th. This cycle will never stop if left on cruise untouched. Sometimes if there's just the right incline I can get it into 4th, then hold it there long enough that it locks up in 4th, and if I work the gas right it will stay there untill the car accelerates and I have to let off gas to stay at 65 or I keep on gas and it just decides to go into 5th since the speficic load in 4th is lower at a higer speed.

It has 172,000 miles and I have recently become the primary driver, thus the crv has graduated beyond grocery duty and entered the working world. In the past few months I have added a class 3 hitch, and a plywood trunk floor (stock cardboard thing is so weak!). I need this car to last indefinitly and I feel the transmission is the weakest link, especailly since I wouldn't be able to fix it myself. I don't think this issue has ever been brought up becasue most people have not even put 100,000 on their gen3 yet.

I made this post in the powertrain form, I have somwhat a duplicate post in the suspension form in which I ask about stronger rear spings for towing. Overall Honda must have made a decent transmission since mine had very likley never had a fluid change until 165,000 and it still shifts great and only has a minor issue with torque converter shudder. Howver, I want to see at least 300,000 out of this powertrain. At that point the car will either be a rusty money pit, or I'll have moved south and it will be eldigable for a new engine from some donor 2011.

Additionally heres a quick list of mods I'm trying to figure out:
*Day time running light switch
*rear wiper on ONLY when switched (no reverse auto on)
*Aftermarket stereo/speakers (original broke at 155k)
*Rear suspension lift
*More comfortable driver seat (being 6ft, hate roadtrips)
*Case vent oil catch can
*General rust proofing
*Better center console
*Key sense chime delete
*Headlights go off with engine
*Larger fuel tank

Sorry for the long post, wanted to get the details in there. Thank you very much for any advice! I've been a long time lurker, first time poster.

Eric
 

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Can't help on most of your questions, but you stated the atf was changed. Was that a single drain and fill or ? What atf was used.
If it hadn't been changed for the first 165k miles, then I would strongly suggest that 3 more drain and fills should be done using the newer Honda DW-1 atf or another compatible synthetic atf such Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc , etc. Since you are towing, you should also install an aux atf cooler in front of the condenser/radiator. Putting in an atf filter, such as Magnefine, would also be recommended, since any slipping will most likely be putting particles into the atf.
Have you ever changed the external atf filter on your CRV?
Hopefully those with more AT experience will give you some good suggestions.
Possibly Googling for each question may give some results.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did drain and refill twice, the fluid actually wasn't horrible first drain, and looked regular dirty second drain. I did buy another filter, but am now waiting on more atf to ship before I can change fluid for third time and filter first time. Drain plug magnet had very minimal metal on it, just a layer of sludgy metal garbage, nothing to concern much about. Yes I did of course use Honda DW-1.

No changes after a few thousand more miles with the two drain refills. Going on a road trip with 3 dirt bikes in tow this weekend. It will be hilly the entire 100 miles... CRV will definitely be getting a good workout.

PS- front pads wore out the other day, I got 83,000 on first set and nearly 90,000 on the second set. Going on the third set of $40 napa pads and front rotors are original from the factory. This car is stupid reliable!
 
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