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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy... First post here. I'm not sure if this is the right place to post or not.

I'm hoping I didn't screw up my throttle body or throttle position sensor just now. I have cleaned a lot of throttle body assemblies but never a newer Honda. My wife's CRV was in desperate need of maintenance. So I changed both the cabin and intake air filters, and cleaned the throttle body and mass airflow sensor. I did not realize that Honda does not recommend cleaning the throttle body while installed. So I had my wife sit in the car with the ignition on so that she could actuate the throttle plate and I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and a clean shop towel. Once I was done with that, cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Hooked everything back up, started the car, and now I have a check engine light and my idle is a bit screwy. Seems to want to hunt for the idle. So after a bit of searching I see that I should have removed the throttle body before cleaning. I also see that the PCM memory should be reset, and an idle relearn procedure needs to be followed.
Is it normal for the check engine light to be on after cleaning the throttle body and MAF sensor? How likely is it that I just destroyed the throttle body? This is pretty bad timing considering that I loaned my dad my OBDII scanner and it's not likely to get back to me in the mail until Wednesday. I'm supposed to be leaving early Friday morning for a 500 mile drive to a wedding!

I appreciate any help you might be able to offer!
 

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Try the 'idle relearn procedure' before anything else. After cleaning the 'throttle plate' it usually returns to a different closed position and causes idle speed problems.
Here's what I would try:
1)have radio code
2)unhook battery cables and 'then' short the cables together (no battery connection allowed :( ) for a couple of seconds.
3)reconnect battery cables and do the 'idle relearn procedure' correctly (no radio, no opening and closing doors, no raising and lowering windows, etc)
4)restart vehicle and put the radio code in
5)hopefully enjoy your trip

Hopefully it will fix it and you will have a good trip.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Buffalo4 for the advice. I *think* this worked. After disconnecting the battery and starting the car, the check engine light was no longer on. I went through the idle relearn procedure and then took it for a drive. Everything seems ok, but I'm still not 100% sure that the idle is correct. I'm going to link to a video showing the tach behavior. It seems to be settling into idle at 750-800 RPM, which I believe is normal. What I'm not sure is the way it's revving up and then settling. Doesn't seem to be as smooth as it should be. Maybe I'm imagining things. I should have paid closer attention to these characteristics before actually doing the work.

man this is crazy... I can't post an email address or a link because I'm too new to the forum. Maybe this will work? https:// youtu.be/YWbyiP7ghuE just get rid of the space between the first and second parts of the link.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So that link at the bottom is a video of the start up. Let me know what you think. Just copy from https:// on through to the E and delete the space(s) between the second / and the y to make the link usable.
 

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well I just went out after letting the car cool down for about 90 minutes and started it up. Initially it starts and hits about 2000 rpm and then settles pretty smoothly to 1000. It sat there for about 30-45 seconds and then surged briefly to 1400 or so and then back down to 1000, before slowly settling down to about 800, now it seems to be fluttering between 800-850. Still no check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
think the map is damaged.
I won't disagree because I don't know enough to... However, if the MAP were faulty, shouldn't the check engine light still be on? Is it possible there are still codes present relating to the MAP even though the light is now off? If you go over to the forum at honda-tech.com and look for my thread with this subject

2007 CRV Check Engine Light after Throttle Body, MAF Sensor cleaning

I was able to link videos there that clearly show the behavior of the tach.

Thanks!
 

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I don't think you ruined anything by doing what you did.
Just recheck everything that may have become disconnected or moved when you did the maintenance. Sometimes even something as simple as the connector going to the power steering pump gets loose or bumped. Remove and re-connect all electrical connectors that you removed or bumped.
You could take the crv to an autozone or similar to see if there are any pending codes, etc.
I am hoping that the idle will calm down with driving and if the power, etc seems OK, it should be reliable to drive on a trip.
Buffalo4
PS: Just watched your vid on youtube and it looks OK to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWbyiP7ghuE&feature=youtu.be
The computer takes several cycles to get everything the way it wants for the fuel/air ratio and advance,shifting points, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't think you ruined anything by doing what you did.
Just recheck everything that may have become disconnected or moved when you did the maintenance. Sometimes even something as simple as the connector going to the power steering pump gets loose or bumped. Remove and re-connect all electrical connectors that you removed or bumped.
You could take the crv to an autozone or similar to see if there are any pending codes, etc.
I am hoping that the idle will calm down with driving and if the power, etc seems OK, it should be reliable to drive on a trip.
Buffalo4
PS: Just watched your vid on youtube and it looks OK to me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWbyiP7ghuE&feature=youtu.be
The computer takes several cycles to get everything the way it wants for the fuel/air ratio and advance,shifting points, etc.
Buffalo, I will do everything you said... Just for the heck of it, watch this video, which was shot after the first, maybe 90 minutes later after cooldown.

https://youtu.be/-MzBFL2zVjI
 

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I have no idea why that sudden surge. Hopefully others have the answer.
I sure wouldn't let that stop me from driving it on that trip, next Friday.
Hopefully someone will give you the answer you seek. Off to watch football, downtown. :)
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well I decided to just do a reliability run this afternoon. I ended up driving 116.5 miles. I did not use the A/C. I did not go faster than the speed limit, so 95% of the drive was between 55 mph and 65 mph. I live at about 2000 feet above sea level. The first part of the drive down to the valley is about 9 miles mostly down hill before I get to the flat-ish land. Still rolling hills in a lot of places. In any case, the first leg of the drive was 54.5 miles and I averaged 33.5 mpg. The second leg, reversing the first, with just a few differences for running errands for my wife, was 62 miles, and I averaged 29 mpg. I was actually at 34.5 average mpg until I had to pull the grade back up to my house. So all in all that's a 31.25 mpg dead average. That is the best economy this car has gotten in the nearly 8 years I've been with my wife. The best previous mpg after this kind of run is about 26. She usually lets the dealer maintain it. Why, oh why, has it never performed this well? Now, to be fair, the only other variable is that I did add a can of Sea Foam to a full tank of gas with this service. I paid close attention to the idle at every stop and I let it sit and idle for a few minutes after ever start up... I haven't seen the surging again. So maybe whatever needed relearning just took a little longer than was initially thought? I sure hop so. Until further notice, I'm going to call this my used get out of jail free card on the throttle body cleaning procedure.

Thanks again for your help... Oh and BTW, Autozone and O'Reilly don't offer OBD2 scanning here. I guess someone sued Autozone over something related to complimentary scans, or rented scanners, and now neither chain will do anything but sell the scanners in California. It's irritating being from this state sometimes!
 

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Sad to hear that the free scans are gone due to some closet type people who readily sue and screw everybody else up . :eek:
Happy to hear your results and I hope you will have an enjoyable trip. :D
The mpg increase is most likely due to your maintenance. :) Congrats!~!!
Buffalo4
 

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Sad to hear that the free scans are gone due to some closet type people who readily sue and screw everybody else up . :eek:
Happy to hear your results and I hope you will have an enjoyable trip. :D
The mpg increase is most likely due to your maintenance. :) Congrats!~!!
Buffalo4
I believe it was stopped because: 1/ it's considered a form of car repair, and they're not license to do repair, and 2/ some stores have people who are a bit too eager to "interpret" the code into a "this is the part you need to buy", and at some point some people got mad because "the part I need to buy" didn't really make the code go away, then started suing.

I imagine both problems can be easily solved with some form of disclaimer that Autozone can force the customer to sign, but maybe they just don't like the hassle. There is also the part about liability, because someone can easily buy something based on a code that is incorrect (or put in incorrectly) and render the car unsafe. Now it's not a problem if you work at home and only do that to your own car, but when a business is involved, experience dictates that there will always be people who start suing the business for money. Maybe they just get tired of that and want to get rid of the liability.
 
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