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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

I've got a coolant leak and have traced it to the water pump.
The bearing and shaft seal are ok and the block gasket seems to be fine.
However, there is a 1/4 " protrusion from the bottom of the water pump housing (aprox 8 o-clock position) with about a 3/16" hole running up into it.
When I plug the hole with my finger, it stops leaking.

Could this be a bolt that backed out or maybe a tiny freeze plug?

I'm half tempted to fill it with silicone or jam a piece of hard rubber up in there.

Any Ideas short of replacing the blasted thing would be great.

Thanks,
 

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This is the weep hole. If the seal in between the waterpump impeller & outer housing is bad. This is where the coolant will leak. The only viable solution to this is to replace the waterpump.
 

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Leakage from the the "weep hole" on water pumps is a built-in indicator to show that the seal is going bad. Your water pump needs replacing. The only normal preventative measure to make water pumps last longer is to change your coolant ever 2 or 3 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ahhh yess....
Thanks much for the quick response. I see what you're saying now that I think about the mechanics of the pump (without being able to see inside).

I know what I'll be doing the first weekend in the new year :mad:
But thanks for the help :D

....Unk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like you've done this b4.
It's awful cramped in there and I was checking out some DIY posts.
I think I can get through it OK, But there was one post that had me concerned.

It went on to say that you had to pull the valve cover and timing belt.

If my leak is the seal between the impeller and outer housing, why would I need to get to the timing belt?
 

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Yes, I have done this many times. I am a mechanic. What year is your CRV? If its the K24 engine with the Timing chain. You will only need to pull out the waterpump alone. But if you have the B20b engine you will need to remove the timing belt before you can get into the waterpump. If your CRV is 07 & up its the K24 or 2.4 liter engine you will just need to pull out the waterpump.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That makes sense now...I've got an '07. The serpintine belt drives the waterpump pully so I should be good.
I'll get a good one as you suggested.

It looks like im going to:
Remove all the splash guards
Unbolt the power steering pump and set it aside
Pull the upper engine mount
Remove the belt tensioner
Then tackle the water pump bolts
From there I think its a matter of patience....am i close?

BTW...do you know where I can special order some longer arms and a smaller pair of hands? ;)
 

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Funny I like that joke. Longer arms & smaller hand. ;) First remove the negative terminal of the battery. Be sure you have the radio codes if you have the OEM radio. Remove splash guards Remove serpentine belt, it is held by an automatic tensioner. I dont think that you will need to remove the ps pump. When removing the bolts from the water pump be sure you make note which bolts are coming from which hole most of the water pumps has different lenghts. Use the new waterpump as a template get a cardboard poke holes into the cardboard similar to the new water pump, then after removing the bolts 1 by 1 place it in the holes of the cardboard. You can remove the upper engine mount if you do not have enough clearance. I did mine without lowering the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dont hang around on the computer much, but i must say meeting you made it pay off.
I Forgot about starting with the battery (I already got the codes).
You've been a great help. Thanks so much!

PS...you can get those special order arms and hands as a set from your Honda Dealership.
However, I heard they cost you an arm and a leg!
 

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I meant no problem. I forgot to mention that you need to clean the mating surface for the new gasket. When cleaning it be sure you do not scratch or nick it. Torque the water pump bolts with a torque wrench. I have the torque spec for you 8.8 ft-lbs. Do the tightening in a criss cross patern. Do it 2x just to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Just in case anyone was following this and was thinking about replacing their water pump, here are a few notes:

First...if you thought removing the splash guards was time consuming, or were frustrated by breaking the plastic clips, you probably dont have the time or patience for this job.

Next...please read otto888man's helpful pointers in earlier posts in this thread and take heed.

I also found a comprehensive post on another website Forum that i found useful and will list in in a minute. There were a few things that didn't match up because the link is for an 02-05 (mine is an 07). Don't worry they are minor.

Relative to the notes in earlier posts in this thread and how the job is outlined in the link listed later, here is what i found when i did the job:

Do - remove the power steering pump and resevior. You will not be able to get in there with all those hoses in the way. Make sure you have power steering fluid before you start

Do Not - Remove the entire Belt Tensioner assembly (you wont be able to reach all the bolts anyway). You only need to remove the idler pully (one bolt)

Do - Remove the upper engine mount (rubber) and bracket attached to the shock tower. You will need a 19 mm Deepwell socket and a breaker bar in addition to the 17 mm indicated in the link. I would do this before removing the the idler pully, otherwise you dont have enough clearance to get the bolt out and pully off. Also...when placing your jack under the enjine, try to block it using the lower engine mount. This will help rotate the engine a little when you are jacking it up and down.

Do not - remove the engine mount bracket from the block. All the bolts are different lengths and 2 of the 5 will not clear the frame no matter how you jack the engine around.

Do - raise the engine up to remove the upper waterpump bolts. Also to line up the new pump and get them started again.
Do - lower the engine to remove the bottom three bolts. Also to get them started when putting the new pump on.
Note: Remember to keep track of the bolts like otto888man said and to cross hatch them when torqueing them down.

On last thing before the link:
These are just my observations...I'm not a mechanic. :p

http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=44958

have fun....Unk
 

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The information in the attached link is sensational! I changed my water pump last weekend on my CRV and in a perverse way, it was fun! Apart form having no room, the hardest part of the job is putting in and doing up the most forward of the bottom bolts. I used a surgical clamp to position the bolt which made it easy. I was thinking about removing the radiator to gain access to the bolt which may be an option.

Great write up & many thanks once again!
 

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The information in the attached link is sensational! I changed my water pump last weekend on my CRV and in a perverse way, it was fun! Apart form having no room, the hardest part of the job is putting in and doing up the most forward of the bottom bolts. I used a surgical clamp to position the bolt which made it easy. I was thinking about removing the radiator to gain access to the bolt which may be an option.

Great write up & many thanks once again!
Thanks for sharing!
 

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Yes, I have done this many times. I am a mechanic. What year is your CRV? If its the K24 engine with the Timing chain. You will only need to pull out the waterpump alone. But if you have the B20b engine you will need to remove the timing belt before you can get into the waterpump. If your CRV is 07 & up its the K24 or 2.4 liter engine you will just need to pull out the waterpump.
can i get the water pump out by removing only the PS pump and the tensioner? 2005 CR-V? thx
 

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Sorry I have not done this on this gen. Try doing a search online here. I think many of our members have done this. Be sure you also replace the coolant to remove abrasives that will lead to water pump failure. You can just relocate the PS pump without taking out the hydraulic hoses. Also check Youtube
 

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Pull the engine mount. I've pulled mine three or four times in the past two months and it's simple to do--it gives a lot more room to work, and the tensioner is far easier to get to in order to remove that belt. The engine bay is poorly designed in this case, leaving almost no room to remove a belt without that mount being in the way. (Snap-On even used to sell an expensive tool to reach the tensioner. The generic ones can be tricky to use.) You will also need to pull the tire off to get access to the lower water pump bolts. Don't tighten the water pump bolts very much either--I don't have the torque spec handy, but it's very low, probably between 7-10 ft/lb. You can unhook the power steering reservoir from the bracket, and then remove the power steering pump and move it to the side without having to disconnect any hoses.

If removing the engine mount, you will need a piece of wood the size of the oil pan (to cushion it) that you will use to raise with a floor jack in order to get the mount off.

I'm not saying it can't be done without removing the engine mount, but my patience level is near zero, and it makes for a much easier and faster job. I replaced my belt the last time I had it apart. And I've also replaced the tensioner pulley--it wasn't quite noisy yet, but the old one was very free-wheeling, meaning it was just about worn out. New bearings will rotate smoothly but a little stiffly since they have rubber seals and are packed with lifetime grease. (I used a Dayco tensioner pulley, since it came with an NTN brand bearing vs. the no-name import trash that fails after two months. Basically, NTN, NSK, Nachi, SKF, FAG, Koyo, etc. are all reputable brands.)

One warning about the bolt holding on the tensioner pulley--it is held on from the rear by a nut that is tucked into a recess in the back of the tensioner. It will fall off if you remove the bolt. It was easier to just unbolt the whole tensioner to attach the new pulley, since it's nearly impossible to reach around behind it to hold that nut enough to get it started. I don't know why they didn't just thread the tensioner instead.
 
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