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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!

I hit a pole and crushed the front part of my roof. Yup, it fell over and landed on the windshield and roof.
Windshield and center roof section is all that is damaged. I bought the car back from the insurance company and will replace the roof section myself and have the windshield installed afterwards.

Problem I have is in removing the headliner I can't seem to get the plastic seat belt cover in the rear ceiling to come loose from the headliner. Seems to be attached to the
roof also. Headliner is in great shape and I don't want to do any damage to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. And yes that is my renovated Ambulance in my back yard. It's great for going out on dates!!
DSC00800.JPG DSC00798.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update on headliner, There's two clips about 3'' or so forward, from the back edge of the liner. Carefully pull down the back edge a bit and take a flashlight and you will see them, plastic push in type, both sides.

I took a piece of 1-1/2'' x 1/8'' aluminum flat strap and pushed between the clip and metal roof to remove. Two more pieces of velcro further towards the front, will release and down it comes.

Seat belt cover in headliner is attached to liner and will come down with it. Do not attempt to remove this, while liner
is attached to roof!

Pic shows location of clips and backside of attached seat DSC00807.JPG DSC00808.JPG belt cover.
 

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Ummmmm.
Do you plan on replacing the roof and roof gusset(s) yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I was going to buy a used roof assembly from a salvage yard and remove the center roof panel for about
$400-500. After adding up the large amount of work involved and cost, I decided to just cut off the front 15'' and use a patch panel from the salvage yard. Unfortunately no one will sell me a cut off from a complete roof.

I just went ahead and used my porta power to push the damaged front part back up and worked the metal with a hammer and dolly. Now I'm waiting on a new windshield so I can trial fit and get the mounting area precise.
I'll then spend some more time working the panel and give a light coat of plastic filler. Prime and paint.

Very little cost involved there. I'm retired so I can do the work myself.
 

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Well so far so good.
Pretty impressive.


When I saw the initial post I assumed you didn't know what you were doing. Clearly I assumed wrong. Looks like you are well on your way to good results.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well so far so good.
Pretty impressive.

Thank you for the kind words.

I've built a couple of mid 30's street rods in the past and am now finishing up the last of three 89' Ford Cut Away Ambulances, that had been stored away for the last 20 years. Not your typical barn find, but was a package purchase
and the price was low.

The Honda is my daily driver and the most modern car I've had to repair. The headliner had me baffled, when it didn't come down when all the trim was removed. Better to ask people who are familiar with a car then risk destroying an expensive item. Never be too proud, to ask for advice.

Finished the metal work today, straightened the large brace behind the windshield and worked the sheet metal
some more. Will order a windshield next week and trial fit. If all is good, will start on the plastic filler.

I'll keep you posted on my progress.
 

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What's sad is that if you had made an insurance claim, they probably would have totaled it out, then sold it at auction. I have some minor damage on one of our '09s and I'm afraid to have it worked on for the same reason. (It's not even cosmetic--someone backed into the rear end of it in a parking lot and went under the bumper, hitting the tie-down hook in the middle of the spare tire tub, and wrinkled it a little.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, it doesn't take much for the insurance company to total a car anymore. They had my repairs at $6600 and value of replacement car at $7450. Expected sale of $2000 at auction. I told them I wanted to keep the car and to just send me the difference. After $250 deductible, I got a check for $5200.

The insurance companies would rather not take the car if possible, as the transport and auction fees are just an added burden to them.

You may be able to take a ''come a long'' pull that back out. If necessary, remove the bumper cover and use heat.
If so, be careful !!
 

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Another problem with insurance in our state is that it is the highest in the nation, and after we lost an older (but immaculate) Acura TL in a flood and got a pittance of a payout for it (one reason we no longer use GEICO), it took me five years to "pay off" that insurance. State law allows any/every insurance company a surcharge for a settlement for five years so, even if we switch insurance companies, the surcharge follows. That pittance of a payout cost me $4,500 over the course of five years, which was probably 3x as much as they paid out on the Acura (which was worth a lot more). We supposedly have insurance reform happening next year, but I suspect the savings will be only a few percent since the insurers will find loopholes to raise the rates back up.

I'm lucky in that it's only the "tub" of the spare tire well that is creased, and the thin metal flanges behind it that support the bottom of the rear bumper cover are slightly out of whack, but otherwise everything else is straight. If I could just get the spare tire to sit flat and the bumper cover flanges maybe an inch lower, it would be perfect. I may see if a body shop could straighten that and leave the rest to me. It does need a new bumper cover and lower plastic tailgate garnish (both are scratched, and the garnish was dented from a previous incident), but those I can bolt on.

As for your CR-V, I don't see $6,600 in damages. A lot of labor perhaps?
 

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My shop has a Porsche Certification. It is kinda tough to total a $110,000.00 car.

It is actually a good thing cars are totaling sooner. The automotive and repair industry is changing in a huge way right now. I have been doing this for thirty years and I have seen more change in the last five than I have in the previous twenty-five. You simply can not repair cars the way you used to.

A shop in Texas was found liable to the tune of $31.5m for doing a repair incorrectly.

In the case of the topic at hand, I am not surprised that totaled. Written correctly, completely gut the interior, including the curtain airbags, and replace the front roof support and replace the roof. It adds up quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have Farm Bureau Ins. It covers property, outbuildings, home, farm equipment, and the cars, etc., replacement cost on everything.They're pretty fair with their payout. They take the market value of the vehicle, if repairs are 80% of value, they total it. They contact the auction company that sells the damaged cars for them and find out what the auction co.figures it will bring and charge you that amount minus the fee they would pay the auction, to keep it. You receive a check for the difference of replacement cost of auto minus your deductible. $250 in my case.

The repair cost is high, because they send me to the best body shop in the small community I live by. Only two are there. The roof center panel is around $1300+ and about a hundred spot welds to remove and reweld. Removal of almost all the interior, has to be taken out to remove the headliner. Repaint and new windshield. Probably billing out at $80-$100 per hour. 7% sales tax.

I have $228 for the windshield that was installed today, in it. ( was a perfect fit and I only went in for a trial fit, to see what I needed to tweek. I couldn't believe I had it spot on. Dumb luck, no doubt ) Another $20 for the filler and probably,
let's say $100 for primer, paint and misc. Probably end up under $400 and X amount of hours work. More dumb luck!!

I'll post pics and info as work progresses.

BTW, if you decide to try pulling out your spare tire well. Hammer the high spots, upper and lower, with a hammer and block of 2x4, ( on the opposite side of the hammer blows ) as you're pulling with the come-a-long. The metal will want to return to it's natural state, just give it some help. If you can't reach under, to hold the block or strike a blow, find a willing friend to help.
MAKE SURE HE COVERS HIS EYES WITH SAFETY GLASSES. Lots of crud will be falling with each strike.
AND BE CAREFUL!!
 

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It is actually a good thing cars are totaling sooner. The automotive and repair industry is changing in a huge way right now. I have been doing this for thirty years and I have seen more change in the last five than I have in the previous twenty-five. You simply can not repair cars the way you used to.
So true. They have become so complex with all the electronics and safety equipment, not to mention plastic pieces that shatter and tear, that the body work is possibly the least expensive part of the repair.

Unlike a 1973 Pontiac, for instance.
 

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Update on headliner, There's two clips about 3'' or so forward, from the back edge of the liner. Carefully pull down the back edge a bit and take a flashlight and you will see them, plastic push in type, both sides.

I took a piece of 1-1/2'' x 1/8'' aluminum flat strap and pushed between the clip and metal roof to remove. Two more pieces of velcro further towards the front, will release and down it comes.

Seat belt cover in headliner is attached to liner and will come down with it. Do not attempt to remove this, while liner
is attached to roof!

Pic shows location of clips and backside of attached seat View attachment 135457 View attachment 135458 belt cover.
I'm trying to replace the ceiling mounted rear middle seat belt because my dog chewed it and we're selling it asap. I have a replacement seat belt assembly already. Which panels do you need to remove, and do you need to disable the rear side curtain airbags? If so, how is that done. Thanks
 

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I'm not sure, but disconnecting the battery should probably deactivate all the airbags.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
If you want to remove the headliner, you'll have to remove all the side panels from the bottom up.
Disconnecting the ground on the battery should disarm all, besure to you have your code for your radio. Also remember about the clips on the headliner and that the plastic surround on the rear roof safety belt stays on the headliner.
DSC00807.JPG
DSC00808.JPG
DSC00808.JPG
DSC00808.JPG
 

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Hi all!

I hit a pole and crushed the front part of my roof. Yup, it fell over and landed on the windshield and roof.
Windshield and center roof section is all that is damaged. I bought the car back from the insurance company and will replace the roof section myself and have the windshield installed afterwards.

Problem I have is in removing the headliner I can't seem to get the plastic seat belt cover in the rear ceiling to come loose from the headliner. Seems to be attached to the
roof also. Headliner is in great shape and I don't want to do any damage to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. And yes that is my renovated Ambulance in my back yard. It's great for going out on dates!!
View attachment 135386 View attachment 135387
would really like to see how you jacked the roof back into place with the console mount right there. have exactly the same situation as a big hickory tree came down the other morning on my wife's 2017 crv totaling it and also on my daughters 2008 crv damaging it also . it looks exactly like your car with the same damage
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, you can use a bottle jack and 2x4's if you be careful to keep it centered on the jack ram. Jack on floor and 2x4 pushing up.

First remove all side panels, visors, etc. from interior and the headliner. And clean all the broken glass out of the opening after you tape shut all vents to keep glass pieces from going into ducts.There's a header right behind the windshield opening that makes a good place to apply pressure. I worked around the crushed upper console mount
and straightened it out after the roof was in it's proper position, using pliers, hammer and dolly ( block of wood will work also). Push on the crown areas of the crease ( high spots ) of all crushed areas, use a hammer and dolly to work metal as you progress. Try not to over work the metal, just enough to get areas close. Metal is thin and works easily. Take your time. Once the roof is up, start working on the windshield area using pliers, hammer, dollies etc. Jack if necessary. Eyeball it as you work on it. Sighting from side to side. Remember, the windshield can crack if it does not lay perfectly seated on surround, when you hit bumps. I got lucky and had it perfect when I had the new windshield trial fitted. Dumb luck for me and the glass shop went ahead and installed without further massaging. Otherwise, mark areas that need more attention and keep at it till the windshield sets flush. Just take your time and work the metal in or out till it's right.

My ''A'' posts were in the proper alignment, so I didn't have to spread them apart or tweak them to get the doors, windshield and such to fit with proper gaps. Lucky me!

Cold weather has made it so I didn't have time yet to do the skim, sand and paint, but will take care of that when it warms up this Spring. I drive the car as is till then and went ahead and put the interior back in, but left the roof rack off to make it easier for me to do the finish work.

If the body work is too severe for you to handle, consider locating a donor junk yard car roof section and replace whole panel or remove the damaged part and replace just the area with a piece from a donor. Should be some hail damaged roofs out there for a reasonable price. New center panel was $1300+ when I checked for my 07. Lots of spot welds to remove....use a good quality Blair brand tool if you do as the cheap ones break the teeth off after a couple of cuts. If you go that route, be sure to brace the A,B and C posts, with welded tube before removing center section to keep body rigid and avoid possible fitment issues. Mine was easier to repair then replace.

Hope this helps.
 
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