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So I have a 2007 crv and I have a Vibration/wobbling when hard accelerateing or braking hard when costing it smooths out. started noticing it at 153,000 the car has 155,000 miles yesterday I slammed on the brakes to avoid hitting a deer and it seems to have got worse tires replaced and balanced at 154,000 miles and the CV JOINTS HAVE NO PLAY IN THEM. I took it to the dealership and they told me everything checked out fine (engine mounts,bent axles,ect)so now I'm at a lost I bought the car with 151,000 miles and had long maintenance record with the car had alignment at 149,500 miles. is 4wd rear diff fluid was changed a week after I got it. Transmission rebuilt at 133,000 miles. I have spent last 2 weeks researching this everything points to a bad CV joint expect for there's no play in the CVS nor is there a tear in the boot and I don't hear any clicking or knocking when turning. Any advice as to what it might be would be helpful thanks.
 

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Welcome to the forum! This could be any number of things. Loose wheel, bad wheel bearing, bent wheel, broken belt in tire, warped/cracked rotor, broken/cracked brake pads/shoes, sticking caliper, loose front end components, broken/dry shock, and it could also still be a transmission or diff issue or the CV joints. I would be most suspicious of those CV joints. At their age they are like my knees - they might still be pretty, but anything is possible! Also check that main driveshaft. Let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum! This could be any number of things. Loose wheel, bad wheel bearing, bent wheel, broken belt in tire, warped/cracked rotor, broken/cracked brake pads/shoes, sticking caliper, loose front end components, broken/dry shock, and it could also still be a transmission or diff issue or the CV joints. I would be most suspicious of those CV joints. At their age they are like my knees - they might still be pretty, but anything is possible! Also check that main driveshaft. Let us know what you find.
So I let a mechanic I know test drive it he said that it was probably CV joints failing even though there's no play in them. He also looked over my maintenance log and noticed alot of the fluids used wasn't Honda certified fluids he pointed out that the brake fluid that was last put in here wasn't Honda brake fluid and can also cause brake damage in Honda vehicles I was wondering if this is true if so should I take it to the dealership and have a brake fluid flush I don't understand how not using Honda brake fluid can cause damage. None the less he recommended replaceing CV joints. This is the first Honda vehicle I have owned and so far other then the small issues I feel this car can go another 100,000 miles and I love the gas mileage I'm getting in a crossover that is awd/4wd (havnt really figured this one out yet)coming from a Buick Rainier that got 14 miles to the gallon. Sorry for going off topic lol thanks for the reply
 

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I don't think it's too critical on the brake fluid. See your owner's manual for details, but I think as long as you use the right type you're good on that - DOT 3 HD or DOT 4. Make sure the fluid is clear and not blackened. However, on trans and diff fluids the use of strictly Honda fluids is critical. I think I'd go ahead and change those all out if they are not the specified Honda fluids.. The wrong diff fluid can cause a shudder as well as ruin the diff. Otherwise, your guy is probably right on those CV joints.Probably there are some frozen bearings by now, but at that mileage they have given good service. New ones should solve that issue.

My '07 isn't there yet as it has only 94k on it, but these Gen 3's are known for racking up some serious miles reliably if cared for, so I plan to stick with Honda fluids.

Pictures? Show us your V!
 

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Welcome to the forum. I would think bad CV joints would start knocking before causing what you are experiencing. Could they even do that?? As mentioned brake rotors true and not warped? Are you in the rust belt ?
Ujoints ?
 

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My experiences with a bad CV joint (@~125000 ml) is vibration during acceleration and it varies with different RPM, 1500-3000 it would vibrate, above that its normal. However, I don't experiences shaking during braking. It hard to tell if CV join have any play to them unless you remove it to inspect, OR the CV joint is severely damaged. My V's CV joint was the same condition as yours, @Astoner, until I removed it, to find out there were a lot of play to the joint. So your CV joint is on its way out. BTW if you were to replace the CV joint, and going with the aftermarket one (cheaper ~160/pair) its a hit or miss, as they will still have some vibration to them. Unless you go with OEM (expensive ~$400 each).
 

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My experiences with a bad CV joint (@~125000 ml) is vibration during acceleration and it varies with different RPM, 1500-3000 it would vibrate, above that its normal. However, I don't experiences shaking during braking. It hard to tell if CV join have any play to them unless you remove it to inspect, OR the CV joint is severely damaged. My V's CV joint was the same condition as yours, @Astoner, until I removed it, to find out there were a lot of play to the joint. So your CV joint is on its way out. BTW if you were to replace the CV joint, and going with the aftermarket one (cheaper ~160/pair) its a hit or miss, as they will still have some vibration to them. Unless you go with OEM (expensive ~$400 each).
Was that CV joint knocking ?
 

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Neither really. You said CV joint was bad. Was it knocking as well?

Vibration usually one of two things ,( or both of course ) Balance or alignment.
In my case, when the original CV goes bad I don't feel any knocking, I believe it was just worn out. The new CV joint, which is aftermarket, the vibration is there, just not as pronounce as a bad ones. However, it noticeable thru the steering wheel during acceleration. After doing alot of research online, many experiences the same vibration with aftermarket CV. Its not well built and/or balance as the OEM, hence the cost difference.
 

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Seems most aftermarket axles don’t have the rubber snubber. Napa axles might??
A worn out CV joint should knock long before any vibrations are felt I would expect!!

You know what a cv joint knock is right ?? First shows up in a tight hard turn, low speed under torque
 

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Seems most aftermarket axles don’t have the rubber snubber. Napa axles might??
A worn out CV joint should knock long before any vibrations are felt I would expect!!

You know what a cv joint knock is right ?? First shows up in a tight hard turn, low speed under torque
My original CV did not show the knock symptom, full lock turn either sides, no knocking. Just the vibration getting worse and worse as I drove it. I went with the 1Aauto CV joint, after doing some research online. Alot of forums give bad review about the Napa, so I avoided this brand.
 

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Worn out CV joints can show different symptoms, depending on what's happening with the bearings. Sometimes they get loose, when the bearings have shelled out or simply worn down in diameter. Sometimes they get tighter/stiffer, when dry bearings seize or lose flexibility due to dried up or stiff grease and metal components. When they do, these conditions interfere with smooth motion, bringing on vibration or clicking sounds due to loss of balance and too loose or to tight components.

Why, I can remember the good old days, when everything under the car had a grease zerk on it, and you could prevent premature failures like this. But no more. They purposely leave them out so you can buy new parts sooner now. I laugh/cry when I see "permanently lubricated bearings" on things now, because the only thing about the whole new process that is permanently lubricated is my ... well, lets just call it my forced acceptance of it. :sick:
 

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Sometimes they get tighter/stiffer, when dry bearings seize or lose flexibility due to dried up or stiff grease and metal components. When they do, these conditions interfere with smooth motion, bringing on vibration or clicking sounds due to loss of balance and too loose or to tight components.
Isnt this cause by ripped CV boot, and the grease leak out over time and no longer lubricate the joint? Thus lead to the symptom you've described above. If the boot don't rip, just mean that the joint are worn out, and becomes loose.
DIYer like you and me are few and far in between, so not many are willing to work on their own car. When I rebuild my front and rear suspension, I went with the grease-able components that was available, in hope that they will last longer. But CV joint is one of those component that I will not attempt to regrease or rebuild, after watching that video by Eric the car guys about rebuilding ones. Really messy stuff to deal with.
 

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Isnt this cause by ripped CV boot, and the grease leak out over time and no longer lubricate the joint? Thus lead to the symptom you've described above. If the boot don't rip, just mean that the joint are worn out, and becomes loose.
DIYer like you and me are few and far in between, so not many are willing to work on their own car. When I rebuild my front and rear suspension, I went with the grease-able components that was available, in hope that they will last longer. But CV joint is one of those component that I will not attempt to regrease or rebuild, after watching that video by Eric the car guys about rebuilding ones. Really messy stuff to deal with.
The joint can and will fail even with a good boot. Torn boot just hastens the failure.
 

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The joint can and will fail even with a good boot. Torn boot just hastens the failure.
I got you. Just want to elaborate the specific scenarios that Kloker was describing that all. This will give the OP more details about all the instances that the CV can fail.
Referring back to the OP scenarios, seems like he's experiencing the symptom that my V's have.
 

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Isnt this cause by ripped CV boot, and the grease leak out over time and no longer lubricate the joint? Thus lead to the symptom you've described above. If the boot don't rip, just mean that the joint are worn out, and becomes loose.
DIYer like you and me are few and far in between, so not many are willing to work on their own car. When I rebuild my front and rear suspension, I went with the grease-able components that was available, in hope that they will last longer. But CV joint is one of those component that I will not attempt to regrease or rebuild, after watching that video by Eric the car guys about rebuilding ones. Really messy stuff to deal with.
The boot is not there to keep grease from leaking out. It's there to keep dirt and debris out. It has no other effect on grease condition. Environmental conditions such as extended long term driving in a very hot climate will cause the grease to dry out, stiffen, harden, and lose it's lubricating properties. Which is when the bearings begin to suffer. Of course, when a boot is torn, and dirt and detritus gets in and contaminates the grease, that then hastens the demise of the bearings.

Back in the fifties, I used to help my Dad work on his cars. Did you know that, in those days, the driveshafts on cars had enclosed, oil bath u-joints? Yup. They sure don't make 'em like they used to.
 

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My dad taught me how to use a lot of tools, including a shovel, a hammer, a rake, a hoe, and a lawn mower (and it wasn't a power mower, either), as well as a saw, a paint brush, a scrub brush, a plunger, etc. He taught me how to fix cars, appliances, sinks, faucets, drain pipes, sewer pipes, gutters, electric motors, yards, gardens, almost anything that needed fixing. But he also taught me how to play baseball, football, how to make and repair jewelry, do silversmithing, gemstone faceting, carpentry, and glazing. He was a highly accomplished slave driver. He also taught me respect, and humor, and common sense. The only things I learned on my own were how to weld, solder, build, and operate computers, ride a cutting horse, herd cows, brain tan hides, do leather work, drive a truck, and be a mean drunk. And how not to be good at picking women. :)
 
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