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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2008 CRV rough idle while air con is on

I have been experiencing rough idle while i have my air con on, and the gear on R or D. This also happens occasionally when idling with gear on D or R but with aircon off. However, this doesn't happened when air con is off, gear in N or P. Car is idling around 700 ish, and dip a little bit with aircon on, this is when I really can feel the engine mildly rocking. When I popped the hood, I noticed that engine shaking more than usual, if any it shakes more than my 2010 accord 2.4L.

I have tried cleaning air filter and throttle body. No improvement whatsoever. Any idea what i should try? I scan with obdII nothing comes up. no trouble code.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
car is currently has 75,000km ish on the clock. Dealership replaced all Spark plugs with the new ones and serviced the injectors (maybe, fuel injectors). These were done at 60,000km. Oil changed regularly every 8k-10k km. However when I cleaned the throttle body this morning, I didn't check the spark plug. I was under assumption they were still good.

I'll check the spark plug tomorrow, any other thing I should look into?
 

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The spark plugs should still be good. But double check them for proper installation. I have seen many times that they are not installed properly especially the coil. When they installed it while inserting the coil they are crocked & it bent the spring inside the coil that touches the top of the terminal nut of the spark plugs that made the engine idle rough. Also be sure you check the tightness of the spark plugs when the engine is cold. If the engine is hot, then you tighten it after the engine gets cold the spark plug will be loose. While you are there, check if its the right type & heat range. Let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, rough idle happened recently together with me experiencing aircon at very rare occasion doesn't blow cold air. Do you think perhaps the compressor clutch has been getting weaker? is it possible that this might cause rough idling?
what's the normal idle RPM?
 

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As I read from your 1st post. It seems like you are having the rough idle most of the times from when the a/c is on. Just to verify the vehicle is an automatic? Im trying to find out what the idle should be in gear & neutral. From what I am assessing the idle is not related to the a/c. My guess is that the idle it should be at 750 +/- 50. Let me know. Have you checked the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes the car is automatic, 2.4L 5 speed.

I have inspected the plugs, they look bad in my eyes, I was so surprise to see this knowing these plugs were replaced just a year ago. Are they normal or something is wrong? It seems to me they worn out prematurely. Notice the burn edge at the base of white shaft, and the thread is all rusty.

This is my observation just now. after putting back the plugs and coils. It idles at 750RPM then maybe after 5-10 seconds it dips down to almost 500RPM at this point the engine almost stalls. It bounce back to 800RPM then down to 750RPM. The cycle repeats.

Also...I just realized that one of the radiator fan died.

The plugs are NGK ZFR6k-11. is there alternative to the better plugs? that lasts longer?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Btw, when I took out the throttle body i had to take off some small hose around it. one of those contained coolant liquid. I have topped it up directly from radiator opening..I lost almost a liter of coolant then. Question is what do i do to bleed the radiator lines? From my experience with BMW, I have to bleed every time I take off radiator hose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My Dad drove the car this morning and came back complaining high idling rpm (about 1,100RPM), sometimes bouncing up to 1,500RPM and down to 1,100RPM, making the unsafe to drive.. I am not sure what i did wrong, apart the fact that I forgot to bleed the system yesterday. However after bleeding, there is no change about the idle RPM, which now sits at 1,100RPM.. I think the problem just got worse.

I tried this bleeding method here: http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/61673-bleeding-coolant-system-07-crv.html#post378193
but strangely the fan won't come on at all. Btw the engine was hot from driving, maybe I need to wait the engine to cool down first before doing the procedure?

Any other idea or solution? can someone tell me what to do? I am at lost. Thanks
 

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Does the gen 3 CRVs have IAC valves/motors (idle air control)? If it does, you might take a look at it as a bad IAC valve can bad idling. But I believe starting in 2005 the CRVs went to drive by wire control...possibly eliminating the need for a IAC valve...if so, then I would check the throttle body...see if anything is obstructing the air flow...see that the throttle body/ butterfly area is clean and free of gunk and carbon buildup...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So my latest problem is caused by me taking out the throttle body and cleaned it up. Its still acting funny, i did some research and found out that you best leave tb alone unless you have HDS or HIM. it seems i messed up the TPS. Btw my car use drive by wire and i didn't notice any iacc.

I'm still looking a way to fix this, any input is appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes I have DBW and did took out the throttle body to clean it out. I regret doing this. I wouldn't do it had i known I needed HDS to reset everything after messing with it. I just let my car sit until i find solution that really works. I tried the idle relearn procedure. but no success, some of the posts had same result.

I'll have a read the link you posted, and post back here to report the result.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Since you have drive by wire...and you did mess (clean) the throttle body...you may have to go through a 'relearn' procedure for the TPS/throttle servo...

You can google it to get some info on it...like this one...

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/86-9th-generation/329777-throttle-body-relearn-procedure.html
So i tried the method you suggested. I shorted the positive and neg cable after disconnecting it from the battery. I even let it connected for the whole day. I started it again and apparently after 15 mins the cooling fans wouldnt come on. And i checked the engine temp using simple generic obd scanner tools. It read 114c, it freaked me out!! Immediately turn off the engine. I hope i didn't overheat it or anything....

why won't the cooling fan turn on? is it because there's still air pocket inside the cooling system?
 

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I don't see how air pockets affect the operation of the fans...seems like you have a bigger problem going back to the PCM (powertrain control module).

Not sure if this has been asked...you appear to have a scanner...any codes stored in the computer? If one of the sensors (temp, tps, etc.) went bad, I would think the computer would 'throw' a code. If not, you may have a bad control module.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't see how air pockets affect the operation of the fans...seems like you have a bigger problem going back to the PCM (powertrain control module).

Not sure if this has been asked...you appear to have a scanner...any codes stored in the computer? If one of the sensors (temp, tps, etc.) went bad, I would think the computer would 'throw' a code. If not, you may have a bad control module.
If you read the chronology from the beginning i had problem with erratic idle but only with aircon on. Then i decided i should clean the throttle body. This happened and i still can't find the source of the problem.

I was pretty sure the right cooling fan is gone cos when the fans came on only the left one did. But now, after having this high and fluctuating rpm idle, both the cooling fans won't come one. So i think i made things worse at this point.

I do have generic elm427 OBDII bluetooth scanner, paired with torque or touchscan for android. So I can't read many parameters including frame freze data, etc. I checked for code, it came up once when I put back throttle body but i accidentaly forgot closing the radiator cap. No codes come up after i cleared that fault code.

I asked the op in the link you gave me. He said the car was taken care by friend of him who was a honda tech. It seems my only option at this point is going to dealership?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay so the ac fan is ok, turned out the connector was a bit loose. I tried to jump both fans directly to battery, ac (condenser) fan turned over but the radiator fan didn't. So the fan must be bad, I'll get a new one next week.

About the throttle or tps sensor i might have screwed up, a friend of mine who runs ecu remap shop, has software that might be able to reset the tps and other stuffs. I'll try him and hopefully everything turn out ok.
 
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