[jubilanttiger]

Hello, my 2008 honda crv EXL, 106k miles, is producing a tapping sound from the engine especially when in drive mode.
My mechanic diagnosed it, checked the engine oil, and is suggesting that we first try with the following:
1. Replace Valve cover gasket
2. Replace 4 iridium spark plugs.

I don't know how to find them online, since there are so many different gaskets and spark plugs that are confusing me. Of course I can check with the mechanic, but the mechanic is busy, and I suspect that I need an extra pair of eyes so that I get the right parts. Therefore, I'm here asking for your opinion.

Questions:
1. For instance, I search for "gasket" at hondapartsnow.com site, but I get so many different gaskets, that I would need your help to identify valve cover gasket.


2. For spark plugs when I search I get 2 different from hondapartsnow.com site. Which of them are iridium spark plugs? Also which one do you recommend?

3. Do I need to order 4 of the spark plugs?

(sorry unable to post the url links since forum rules block me)

 

[kloker]

It's not difficult, but there is a little bit of a learning curve with the website:


Gasket Set (Includes other needed seals, O-rings): https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~gasket~set~head~cover~12030-rta-000.html

Spark Plugs: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~spark~plug~9807b-5617w.html


The gasket set is what you need. It includes the valve cover gasket (part #3 in blowup) plus all the misc. O-rings and seals you need to replace in the job, which, I assume means the mechanic plans to do a valve adjustment. The plugs are the iridium NGK's. Go ahead and get the set of 4. Amazon might have them cheaper. This sound could be a valve adjustment issue, or it could just be a sticking lifter, or any number of other things. The plugs are likely not related to the tapping issue but you are due for them anyway in maintenance, so it's smart to do them since they have to come out anyway. Let us know how this comes along.

 

[canyon]

Could what you describe be a case of need for valve adjustment?

https://www.crvownersclub.com/forum...ice/194171-symtoms-need-valve-adjustment.html

 

[Tigris99]

The valve cover gasket has nothing to do with the noise, neither does the spark plugs.

Sounds more like valves are in need of adjustment. But doing so requires a valve cover gasket.

It's best to let your mechanic handle all of this due to the questions being asked about both jobs. Not a good idea to try and do these jobs yourself, especially the valve adjustments

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[Carbuff2]

Oh, piffle! Valve adjustments are not THAT difficult. :HighFive:



Especially when you use the 'go-no go' method of checking. (Which eliminates the learned 'feel of drag' required when trying to determine the correct gap with one feeler.) The 'thin' feeler should easily go into the gap; the thick feeler should not be capable of going.



Regards the necessity of a valve cover gasket:

Honda's design, tolerances and machining are such that the valve cover gaskets can be re-used. You just need Hondabond or some other oil resistant sealer for the 'corners' of the valve cover.

20 years ago I would have ordered a new VC gasket kit when I set about doing a valve clearance check, but I don't anymore.:wrenchin:


++++++++++++++


Otherwise, Tigris99 offers correct advice.

 

[Tigris99]

Oh, piffle! Valve adjustments are not THAT difficult. :HighFive:



Especially when you use the 'go-no go' method of checking. (Which eliminates the learned 'feel of drag' required when trying to determine the correct gap with one feeler.) The 'thin' feeler should easily go into the gap; the thick feeler should not be capable of going.



Regards the necessity of a valve cover gasket:

Honda's design, tolerances and machining are such that the valve cover gaskets can be re-used. You just need Hondabond or some other oil resistant sealer for the 'corners' of the valve cover.

20 years ago I would have ordered a new VC gasket kit when I set about doing a valve clearance check, but I don't anymore.:wrenchin:


++++++++++++++


Otherwise, Tigris99 offers correct advice.

I agree the job is easy for those who are somewhat mechanically inclined. But if someone is struggling identifying what a valve cover gasket and number of spark plugs needed, it's best to leave a valve job to someone that knows what their doing. Otherwise that's how the lock nuts and such end up coming loose/falling off, valve clearances end up wrong and so on leading to engine damage.

I agree the gaskets can be reused a few times but at the age of his V it's best to replace it. Not a matter of tolerances and such, matter of rubber degredation.

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[jubilanttiger]

Hello, my mechanic looked at the car, while doing the regular 100k maintenance - replacing valve cover gasket and spark plugs. He said that the valve cover gasket looks to be alright. He also noticed that the camshaft lobe was getting worn out, and was suspecting that might also be the reason for this issue. We observed that the noise is louder when idling. He is unable to figure out the reason for this tapping sound from engine.

Today, I'm taking it to be diagnosed by Honda dealership. Fingers crossed!

If you have any suggestions to diagnose this issue, they are welcome.

Thank you.

 

[Tigris99]

If he was in there did he adjust the valves?

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[jubilanttiger]

@Tigris99, yes he did adjust valves. Or rather, he said that the valves are just fine.

Honda dealership diagnosed the issue today. They are saying that the AC compressor is causing the problem and needs to be replaced. Do you think AC compressor can be a plausible reason for engine noise? The dealership service people say that when the AC is running the noise increases, but reduces when AC is not running.

 

[Carbuff2]

Get a price just to replace the compressor CLUTCH.

Known issue with Gen3 CR-Vs.

 

[kloker]

He also noticed that the camshaft lobe was getting worn out

No. Camshaft lobe wear requires testing with a dial indicator to detect, and can generally only be verified by a very high skill level mechanic. It is not visibly detectable. A severely stuck or sticking lifter will cause a noticeable engine miss and rough idle. So - no.

If the tapping or clicking sound is coming from the A/C compressor, it will be irregular, and you should be able to watch it happening, with a light shining on it and the A/C operating. It won't do it when turned off. If it is clicking fairly constantly it means the compressor is short-cycling, which means the system is low on gas (Freon). Sounds to me like the clutch is working fine, and the system just needs to be charged. First, your "mechanic" should have been able to easily diagnose it and fix it. The stealership is likely trying to sell you a compressor you don't need. Take the car to a reputable mechanic and have them evacuate the A/C system, pull a vacuum, do a leak-down test, and re-charge. I had to do this on my '07 with 92k on it. The A/C system only holds less than two pounds of 134a when full, and mine was down by over a pound. It had never been serviced before, so a pound or so leaked out over twelve years is not that much of a leak. That was about five months ago, and it is working just fine.

If a thirty minute + leak-down test shows the system is leaking, they can find and fix the leak (with dye), which could be the compressor, or it could just be an o-ring or seal elsewhere in the system. Honda just likes to sell compressors because they want to take your money. It's one of their favorite ruses. It is said that Gen3's commonly have this issue, but I don't buy it. I think it's just a wide-spread dealer scam to charge you a thousand bucks to fix a hundred dollar problem. I'd bet money your compressor is just fine. You just have to find a shop you can trust, with a real mechanic. Dealerships mostly don't really have mechanics, they have parts replacers, and the service writer telling you you need a compressor is a salesman, not a mechanic. It's how all car dealerships work.

If the sound is regular, and happening when the A/C is off, then it is not the compressor clutch, and could be any number of things, such as a sticking lifter, or a cracked belt, or a bunch of other things. Find a real mechanic! If you happen to be in Austin, I can point you towards my guy, who is the best around these parts.

 

[jubilanttiger]

Thanks kloker, carbuff, canyon and Tigris for jumping on this thread.

I'm able to hear the tapping sound even when A/C is not ON. The Honda dealership says that AC compressor is still rotating even when it is not running, thereby the cause of the noise, even when AC is not running. Could this be true, that the AC compressor can produce sound even when car AC is turned off?

I live in Seattle. Do any of you know of a reputable mechanic in Seattle? Or maybe a way to search for a good mechanic.

 

[Carbuff2]

TThe Honda dealership says that AC compressor is still rotating even when it is not running, thereby the cause of the noise, even when AC is not running.

The clutch drive wheel is ALWAYS turning while the engine is running. The electromagnetic clutch 'pulls in' to run the A/C compressor while the AirCon is operating.

From what I've sen of the clutches, they can wear at an angle, thus making a noise at all times. The noise should change when the A/C is engaged though.

 

[jubilanttiger]

video which shows the engine sound

Carbuff, thanks for replying to this post.

Can you kindly watch this 2mins video? It seems that the tapping sound happens both before and after starting AC.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sQ6dN2lUOg

Does it sound like an issue with AC compressor clutch or something related?

Thank you.

 

[kloker]

Thanks kloker, carbuff, canyon and Tigris for jumping on this thread. I'm able to hear the tapping sound even when A/C is not ON. The Honda dealership says that AC compressor is still rotating even when it is not running, thereby the cause of the noise, even when AC is not running. Could this be true, that the AC compressor can produce sound even when car AC is turned off?

It is absolutely possible. If it is the case, it means the clutch is stuck in the engaged position, which means either the magnet is not switching on and off properly, or the clutch discs are mechanically stuck. Either way, a new clutch is likely the solution, though not necessarily. I had the same issue on my F250 once. I watched my mechanic disassemble the clutch, clean it out (it was full of a lot of dust and crud, and lube it. Then it was slipping, so he removed one of the spacer discs so that it would more fully engage. After that, it worked perfectly for two years until I replaced the entire system. I would say that if the compressor is otherwise okay, just have them put a new clutch on. That compressor may last years longer. Or not. It's up to you. But get the prices before you decide. That new compressor with clutch assembly is going to set you back a pretty penny. If you do go that route, stick with new OEM - not rebuilt or aftermarket. Also, a good local mechanic may be way cheaper than a dealer. Price it first.

That compressor with a new clutch together is about $810, for just the parts (labor not included) at hondapartsnow.com:

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2007-honda-cr-v-5dr_ex-l_4wd-ka-5at/a-c-compressor.html

I highly recommend you get yourself a factory service manual. It has a 150-page troubleshooting section for the A/C system. I got my manual, in CD form (as a pdf)(over 3,200 pages!) for about $45 off eBay. It is very comprehensive, and will allow you to narrow down the problem and likely save you money. For instance, if the compressor clutch relay is stuck, it could cause this, and it is a $15 plug-in part. If you follow the manual procedure and then pull that relay and the clutch releases, then you just saved a thousand dollars. That may be a best case scenario, but the system is fairly complicated and some guidance from the manual can go a long way towards saving money, or else at least knowing what it needs. My manual has paid for itself already, and easily.

Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Carbuff2]

Does it sound like an issue with AC compressor clutch or something related?

Thank you.

Can't tell...I hear the fans engaging at 1:35 so the A/C is on then. I hear the tap sounds like something external, not rotational like an A/C clutch.

To determine a worn A/C clutch you measure the gap.

Try searching YouTube for 'worn A/C compressor clutch Honda' and tell us if any of the videos sounds like your issue.

 

[fnjeep314]

I know that the conversation turned to the A/C system, but I am wanting to check my valves on my 2010 with 103K. I have no idea if they have ever been done.(Just bought it 6 months ago at 93K)

I know that you have to rotate the motor and at certain positions adjust certain valves. Does anyone have a pdf or something going over how to do the valve adjustment?

I am ot a mechanic by trade, but have been one for the last 20 years, and been modding cars just as long, and I was an aircraft mechanic for 6 years in the Navy, so I'm pretty handy!

 

[Carbuff2]

EricTheCarGuy has a YouTube vid for his Element (which also uses the K series engine).

You don't even need to jack up the car...just turn the wheel full-right and then you can turn the crankshaft with a 19mm on a ratchet.

 

[Tigris99]

Kloker

No the cams do not need measured on these. Gen 2 CRVs (and matching accord/elements) had an issue with the finish on the exhaust cam lobes pitting for no reason other than age. Very noticeable when removing the valve cover. Doesnt effect performance till it gets bad then cam needs replaced. Already did it on mine.

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[kloker]

I know that the conversation turned to the A/C system, but I am wanting to check my valves on my 2010 with 103K. I have no idea if they have ever been done.(Just bought it 6 months ago at 93K)

I know that you have to rotate the motor and at certain positions adjust certain valves. Does anyone have a pdf or something going over how to do the valve adjustment?

I am ot a mechanic by trade, but have been one for the last 20 years, and been modding cars just as long, and I was an aircraft mechanic for 6 years in the Navy, so I'm pretty handy!

I can't imagine why it would need it, unless there is some issue. Maybe in five more years? However, I highly recommend you get yourself a factory service manual. Mine has easily paid for itself and then some already. I got my copy in CD form (pdf) for $45 off eBay. 3,200 pages of in-depth goodness. Covers pretty much everything, including this.