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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I am kind of puzzled by my wife's 2009 Honda CR-V LX. We bought it new and it has 90,000 miles.

We were driving the other day, when the car suddenly jerked and the CEL, indicator and VSA lights came on.
It now only drives under soft acceleration. If I rev up to 3,000 it jerks repeatedly.

I checked the oil and noticed the car had VERY little. My wife waits for the little wrench to come on, but she does change her oil.

Took it to Autozone and they pulled a P2647 code. They said I should replace the rocker arm oil pressure switch.
Took it to a mechanic and pulled a P1259 code. They quoted me close to $400 to replace the VTech solenoid and close to $2500 to replace the VSA unit.

Has anybody had this issue?

I admit I am a little upset. We were without a car for months because of the airbag recall, and we currently can't use the passenger seat as we wait for the passenger seat airbag replacement. Not looking forward to having 3000 other reasons to be upset.
 

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Since two different codes were pulled I would take it to a Honda dealer and let them diagnose it. You will have to pay for the diagnosis but of the three I would trust the dealer the most.
 

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Sounds like very low/no oil

If I rev up to 3,000 it jerks repeatedly. I checked the oil and noticed the car had VERY little.

Took it to Autozone and they pulled a P2647 code. They said I should replace the rocker arm oil pressure switch.
Took it to a mechanic and pulled a P1259 code. They quoted me close to $400 to replace the VTech solenoid and close to $2500 to replace the VSA unit.
Jerks over 3,000 is what it does when it goes into Limp Mode when it is OUT of oil.

You are seeing 2 oil-related Codes, oil pressure switch and VTech solenoid - they would do so with no/little/contaminated oil or plugged oil filter with a blocked bypass valve.

Step one is change the oil and filter with 0W20 Mobil 1 or Honda full synthetic oil and Honda filter. If you already changed it, do it again. This MAY fix some of the issues.

Where has the oil been changed? What weight/brand oil. Does the oil filter also get changed?
 

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In the vtec system there is also a filter that can get clogged. Worth getting the part for an easy replacement.
 

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I would take this as a lesson learned and check the oil for her at least once a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the answers so far.
Will have to find the oil change paperwork for details, but, like I said, she does change the oil...

How about the VSA and caution lights? I can't see how that relates to the other, but they are on and they will not go away. All I got from the mechanic is a "it has to be replaced" (the whole VSA unit).

Thanks again.
 

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I would change the oil and have the codes erased. The VSA light will go on when there is a important engine or transmission code. Why can't you use the passenger seat? millions of people are, and you have since your got the car. If you keep running with low oil your looking at a timing chain job
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So... I took the car to another mechanic for a second opinion.
He comes up with a transmission overhaul as a solution, to the tune of $1800.
I am confused. We went from two oil related codes to a transmission issue.
So my question is, am I crazy in thinking that a transmission should last more, than 90000 miles?
 

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Have you checked the automatic transmission fluid level and looked at the color of the fluid?
Something very strange going on here.
Since you do not sound very mechanically minded, so, perhaps taking it to a Honda Dealer would be worthwhile.
First check the level and color of the automatic transmission fluid. Make sure it is between the marks or at the top mark. Look in your owner's manual (free download online) to see how to properly check it.
Do an engine oil and filter change (quality synthetic oil - they clean better) as 'downunder47' suggested.
Erase the codes and see what comes back.
Does the transmission seem to shift OK, etc?
More info needed.
Running low on oil may have been the major problem and just doing the synthetic engine oil and filter change may be all you need.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did not check tranny fluid. But will do. I am afraid to find none in there...
Don't work on my cars, but I have enough of a general idea to know that this is all over the map.
Definitely taking it to the dealer. Whether it is to get another opinion or to trade it in... still to be seen... :)
Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Forgot to mention and ask... Oil was changed by first mechanic. How long do I disconnect the battery to clear the CEL? Either I did not wait enough or the CEL did not clear.
 

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Did the code(s) come back instantly?
Don't be afraid to check the atf. Look at the color. Is it clear and pinkish ? Does it smell burnt?
It is very easy to check the tranny fluid. Fluid at operating temp. Vehicle level. Turn engine off and check shortly afterwards ( around 1 minute).

I 'think' it just takes several minutes to clear the codes. If you have the time, wait an hour or overnight.
Make sure you have your radio code before disconnecting the battery.

Auto zone or others can clear it with their OBDII reader.
If the code(s) comes back, record the code number(s) again and post it here.
If you have a smartphone, you can buy an OBD2 reader for around $20 or just a real one for around $40 or one that constantly is connected for around $70 (Ultra-gauge , for one). Damn good investment and worthwhile, in my book.
http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/
Those gauges do a lot more than just record codes and, they reset codes. Look them up (instant mpg,temps,rpm,O2 sensor readings, etc etc etc,)
You will need your radio code if you disconnect the battery.
Does your transmission seem to work OK? Shifting, etc.
Just doing a simple drain and fill of the transmission (around 3 qts) with Honda DW-1 or another compatible synthetic atf can work wonders and is very worthwhile.
Pretty easy to do yourself and there are write-ups in this forum and vids on youtube on how to do it.
Don't despair.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So...
I did check atf and there is very little in there and I just got an OBDII reader for my phone, which I have to setup.

I have been reading other posts on the forum about similar problems and the simple solution of cleaning the VTEch screens. But how difficult is it to remove the tensioner and pump or whatever else needs to be removed to get to the assemblies containing the screens?
 

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Put some atf in it ASAP if you intend to drive it. Check the level properly.The Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf is around $18 for a gal jug at Walmart and it is compatible with your CRV and is well accepted to be better than the Honda Z-1 atf and equal or superior to even Honda DW-1 by quite a few Honda owners.
Buffalo4
 

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MaxLife Dex\Merc at walmart today...

Put some atf in it ASAP if you intend to drive it. Check the level properly.The Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf is around $18 for a gal jug at Walmart and it is compatible with your CRV and is well accepted to be better than the Honda Z-1 atf and equal or superior to even Honda DW-1 by quite a few Honda owners.
Buffalo4
Claims compatibility with Honda ATF-Z1. Does not mention DW-1 which is definitely recommended.

ValvolineMaxLifeDex-Merc.jpg
 

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Claims compatibility with Honda ATF-Z1. Does not mention DW-1 which is definitely recommended.

View attachment 72081
Even the 2010 CRV recommended atf was Honda Z-1, so yes, the Valvoline atf is fine for Javier2016's 2009 CRV.
I emailed Valvoline a couple of years ago and in the document they sent me, it said it was compatible in Honda's where DW-1 was recommended.
I also emailed Valvoline saying that the container label doesn't show it being compatible as a replacement for DW-1 but never go much back except them saying it was.
Buffalo4
 

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Honda voids transmission warranty if other than DW-1 is used.

Even the 2010 CRV recommended atf was Honda Z-1, so yes, the Valvoline atf is fine for Javier2016's 2009 CRV. I emailed Valvoline a couple of years ago and in the document they sent me, it said it was compatible in Honda's where DW-1 was recommended. I also emailed Valvoline saying that the container label doesn't show it being compatible as a replacement for DW-1 but never go much back except them saying it was.
Buffalo4
Yes, I recall reading that. It seems awkward for them to not bother to change the bottle to include this compatibility, especially since without doing so it will result in voided warranty.

My 2010 Owners Manual does list Z-1. I did the 4x drain/refill with DW-1 since it improved the '07 so much, and it really made it shift more smoothly, even with only around 15k miles.

DW_1_NO_Warranty.jpg
 

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On my 16 with CRV I am going to stick with Honda brand. My 2005 Pilot has had both versions of Honda 100k, Redline d4 for 100k, valvoline and generic Honda compatible for the last 28k.
But I do change ATF fluid at 15k intervals not 30k. Think that helps.
 

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Oil is the life blood of the vehicle and should be changed every 3,000 miles. The ATF should be changed every 30,000 miles. Just doing simple routine maintenance will let you keep your CRV for a very long time. Even with 90,000 miles.
 
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