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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been having excessive road noise that changes with speed and turns (a humming that grows to nearly a roaring). I find that it goes away when turning to the right at moderate speed (where the slight weight shift and tilt from inertia removes some of the weight load from the right side of the vehicle). The noise seems localized to the passenger rear wheel.

A trusted tire shop suggested there is not uneven wear on the tires and they are all in great shape so the noise is not tire or alignment related. He said it is most likely wheel bearing noise.

The entire bearing assembly must be purchased and replaced. A replacement part is only ~$50 - $80 USD or you can buy the OEM for $150 USD (see part #3 on the officially diagram https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.co...-l-4wd--5-speed-automatic/chassis--rear-brake).

The job only requires a jack, jack stands, a metric&imperal socket set (also one large nonstandard socket), socket wrenches, a breaker bar, screw drivers, a puller tool to remove the bearing assembly from the axel, and a torque wrench. You can watch it done here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tm8RZhaPWdI

I am about to perform the job and needed more info.

1. What is the size of that large nut in the center of the bearing assembly?

2. What is the torque spec on that nut?

3. What is the torque specification of the four bolts on the back of the bearing assembly?

4. Do all four wheels need to be hanging (i.e. the vehicle jacked up all the way around) or can the job be done with 3 wheels and a jack bearing the weight?

I don’t know where I can find this info other than hoping my local dealer or a Honda hotline will tell me - ??? Any info highly valued.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
UPDATE: Initial trial to begin the job failed. One of the two screws that hold the rotor to the hub assembly are seized and became stripped when I attempted to remove them. I tried an impact driver.. it broke a the bit and stripped the screw head. Will try to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose next. It may require I drill out the head to facilitate breaking it free with the punch.

New screws are easily purchased (see part #22 in the diagram https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.co...-l-4wd--5-speed-automatic/chassis--rear-brake). However, these screws are not required for mechanical purposes. They only serve to hold the rotor in place for safety reasons during manufacture (I was told by a trusted mechanic).
 

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I would have checked the brakes also. I had a howling from my left rear wheel that sort of did the same thing--it went away on some of the turns, and it only started howling around 50-55 MPH and was loudest at 60, then mostly went away by 70-75. Turned out that the outer pad was seized in the caliper a bit. I could also tell due to the wheel having a lot of brake dust on it, and it felt hot compared to the other wheels. At first I cleaned up the hardware and filed down the ears on the caliper a little, but then I decided to just change the pads out for Akebono and replace the stainless steel hardware. The Akebono fit properly, unlike the cheaper pads that came on the car (which were replaced at some point before I owned it).

No idea on the bearing though. I've never had to tackle that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the suggestion, Wildcat. I have had the caliper off (when I tried to initially diagnose the problem). Brakes and rotor are in good shape. I’m mainly needing advice on finding these torque specs and the size of the central nut on the bearing assembly. Will try to call dealer or Honda hotline soon.. but was hoping I could find the info online somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
UPDATE: Job finished and no more roaring noise from the wheel.

I borrowed a 250 ft-lb ratcheting torque wrench and a hub puller tool / slide hammer from Autozone to complete the job.
 

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Thanks for the post, and the details. Did you ever record the noise. How about the new hub as it is driven?

My rear wheel is noisy and I am wondering if this is inherent to the hub or it’s beginnjng to fail.
 

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I am having loud wheel noises as well on my 2011 Honda CRV SE. Thinking it was a failing AWD differential I removed it and the axles after having a shop remove the propeller shaft. Still had noise. Then I replaced the right rear hub assembly with a moog part. It did not have a O ring seal. Now I have a ABS light and VSA light on
all the time. Replacing the right rear wheel speed sensor did not help on the dash lights either. Still having noise coming from the rear even after changing the hub assembly! I am running Falken Pro G 5 tires so thinking the noise is from the tires now. Anyone else having noise issues due to tires on the rear areas of Honda CRV’s 2007-2011?
 

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I've had both a bad wheel bearing and a seized caliper (or rather, the pads were seized in place because the hardware was rusted) that caused noise. Badly worn tires could also cause a noise, due to alignment specs that are not correct. If the inside of the tread looks feathered or cupped, it could be an alignment issue. You could try swapping tires between sides, or front to back, to see if the noise moves, or if it stays with the wheel.

The rear hub should come with an o-ring only if its a two-wheel-drive CR-V. If it is all-wheel drive, the axle shaft is what seals off the area, and no o-ring is needed.

For the sensor, make certain the wiring harness to the vehicle is not damaged. I've broken a rear sensor before, but a replacement sensor fixed it. Otherwise, you should find someone to read the ABS error code to see where the problem is, rather than throwing parts at it.
 
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Thank you Wildcat. My next move will be to move some tires around and check for tire cupping or feathering. I pulled the ABS code at Advance Auto Parts and got a 16.1. That happens to be the right rear wheel speed sensor detecting a intermittent electrical noise malfunction. I changed the sensor and it did not fix the issue. I am at a dead end with this. Just been driving the vehicle with the ABS/VSA lights on since it drives fine, just still has the noise in the back from what must be tire noise, but the ABS/VSA is deactivated since the lights are on. The lights are more an annoyance than really anything else.
 
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