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First post here. My 2010 AWD EX has been having serious issues with acceleration and fuel economy the last two months. I'm on my third shop trying to get it fixed and am honestly getting ready to trade it in altogether. At slow speeds the car is really dragging, like I'm getting less punch at an RPM range than I used to. It's also noticeable on the highway going up even slight hills. In addition, fuel economy is down considerably from a few months ago and its as low as 16-18 mpg city/mixed, though highway is mid 20s

Recently had the following done: transmission and brake flush, 2 oil changes (a few weeks after first one the shop said it looked dirty, which doesn't seem right), fuel injection service, alignment air filters. Today I brought it to a new dealer and all they could find was a software upgrade that didn't help. Mechanics said it drives just like his CRV but I know it's bogged down somehow. They said they can't do anything if the check engine light or a code doesn't come up. I'm really frustrated and can't find threads with similar problems here. Car has 45K miles, tires are 12K mile old, been well maintained. Anyone have any advice so I don't have to jump ship to Mazda?

Thanks!
Mike
 

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Welcome to the forum. Was anything done before this happened? Have you checked if the brakes are dragging? try changing brand of gas , or try changing gas station. Try this accelerate or when its cruising shift it into neutral see how long will the vehicle coast. Oil level is it good? air filter? Let me know.
 

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Only work done recently was mentioned above; the problem seemed to get worse after the transmission fluid flush and first oil change (separate shops), but it was gradual. Air filter should be new. Most recent dealer shop checked the brakes for dragging after I mentioned there's often a smell near the back passenger door; my wife smells it regularly but I usually can't. Oil level looked fine earlier this week.

We've been using BP which has seemed to work well in the past; I occasionally use Sunoco or Shell but mostly BP and haven't noticed a difference among them.

I'll try cruise in neutral trick. Thanks for thoughts!
 

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Sounds like the same issue i had at 70k and my friend at 50 k, i found out a lot of people were getting this so my friend and i did everything you did and still did it we both chsnged our spark plugs and bamn it felt like a new car.change them spark plugs .you have low miles for a 2010 but its 4 yrs old almost 5 change them spark plugs with oem plugs i garenty it will work.and also try a bottle of chevron techron.and some premium gas
 

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Thanks for the tip on spark plugs! I will give that a try. Really glad to hear someone had the same issue, since I felt like I was crazy. Will report back with results.
 

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Rear diff oil?

Only work done recently was mentioned above; the problem seemed to get worse after the transmission fluid flush and first oil change (separate shops), but it was gradual. Air filter should be new. Most recent dealer shop checked the brakes for dragging after I mentioned there's often a smell near the back passenger door; my wife smells it regularly but I usually can't. Oil level looked fine earlier this week.

We've been using BP which has seemed to work well in the past; I occasionally use Sunoco or Shell but mostly BP and haven't noticed a difference among them.

I'll try cruise in neutral trick. Thanks for thoughts!
At 45k it should be about time for the second one? Could that be the source of the smell?
 

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At 45k it should be about time for the second one? Could that be the source of the smell?
Not sure I fully understand, but I meant that was second oil change in last few months. The second shop I went to did an oil change for me (regularly scheduled); then I went back to them a month or two later after noticing the worsening performance, and the guy suggested fuel injection service, air filter replacement, and another oil change because the oil already looked dark to him. Car had gone 1K miles or less between the two oil changes (second was free). Since I do a lot of city driving I do the oil changes every 5-6K whether the wrench comes on or not.
 

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Not talking Engine oil, but...

Not sure I fully understand, but I meant that was second oil change in last few months. The second shop I went to did an oil change for me (regularly scheduled); then I went back to them a month or two later after noticing the worsening performance, and the guy suggested fuel injection service, air filter replacement, and another oil change because the oil already looked dark to him. Car had gone 1K miles or less between the two oil changes (second was free). Since I do a lot of city driving I do the oil changes every 5-6K whether the wrench comes on or not.
My apology for the lack of specificity. I am talking about the rear differential oil. You MUST use only Honda brand Duel Pump lube in it. It needs to be changed regularly but the mileage may vary.
 

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For all my hondas i do.
Synthetic oil every 3k
Rear diff every 10k
Tranny fluid every 10k
Coolant flush every 30k
Serpentine belt every 60k
Spark plugs every 60k
 

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Pull the spark plugs and look at the electrodes. If the tip is rounded and outside of the gap limit (0.042" - 0.045" something like that), get news plugs (stick with OEM suggested Iridium plugs). At 45K miles, I'd be really surprised if your plugs were shot. I inspected mine at 60K miles and the electrodes were still flat on top and within gap tolerance.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for tips everyone. So far I replaced spark plugs, then drove 150 miles from VA to PA and it felt just as sluggish as before, getting ~18mpg city and 20 highway. Then, I noticed after a Sunoco fillup in PA that it felt like normal, peppy at times. Getting home I got 26mpg highway, which is summer normal.

Not sure if spark plug difference took 100 miles to kick in or if PA gas really is that much different than VA gas. I'm afraid to fill up again (due soon). If I do find it's the gas causing the issue, anyone have suggestions? 5mpg difference due to gas only sounds absurd. I thought I was already being smart getting BP most of the time. I'm still waiting to do the Techron, which maybe will also help.

Thanks! Mike
 

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Sure sounds like gas...

Thanks for tips everyone. So far I replaced spark plugs, then drove 150 miles from VA to PA and it felt just as sluggish as before, getting ~18mpg city and 20 highway. Then, I noticed after a Sunoco fillup in PA that it felt like normal, peppy at times. Getting home I got 26mpg highway, which is summer normal.

Not sure if spark plug difference took 100 miles to kick in or if PA gas really is that much different than VA gas. I'm afraid to fill up again (due soon). If I do find it's the gas causing the issue, anyone have suggestions? 5mpg difference due to gas only sounds absurd. I thought I was already being smart getting BP most of the time. I'm still waiting to do the Techron, which maybe will also help.

Thanks! Mike
Mike, if it were plugs it would be immediate.

You may be the victim of our political miscreants mandating Ethanol raising the mixture to 15%? This will definitely cause what you are experiencing. You might consider stopping putting food in your gas tank?

Go to the link below, bottom of the page and click on VA to get the list of stations in VA that are reported to carry Ethanol-free gas. When you get some it will feel like a totally different vehicle!

Ethanol-free gas: http://pure-gas.org/
 
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