2010 CRV new to me
1980
6
Hi,
I bought a 2010 CRV with about 77K miles. It only came with one key/fob and had 2 key/fob made shortly after the CRV purchase. When I was at the service desk, the mechanic noted that they rear differential fluid need to be changed which I did this afternoon. I've burnished the clutch pack just prior to the fluid change and then again right after. I let my teenage son drive 10 CW and CCW circles in a vacant parking lot.
So..my question is do I need to reset anything on the Maintenance Minder? The oil had been recently change and the oil life is showing an appropriate life remaining, so it looks like the shop reset the engine oil in the MM. When the rear diff. fluid is changed to I also need to reset the MM? if so, how?
The owner manual discusses reseting for engine oil changes, but I haven't found anything for the rear diff. fluid. FWIT, I did use Honda's DPDF II.
Thanks
Rich
I bought a 2010 CRV with about 77K miles. It only came with one key/fob and had 2 key/fob made shortly after the CRV purchase. When I was at the service desk, the mechanic noted that they rear differential fluid need to be changed which I did this afternoon. I've burnished the clutch pack just prior to the fluid change and then again right after. I let my teenage son drive 10 CW and CCW circles in a vacant parking lot.
So..my question is do I need to reset anything on the Maintenance Minder? The oil had been recently change and the oil life is showing an appropriate life remaining, so it looks like the shop reset the engine oil in the MM. When the rear diff. fluid is changed to I also need to reset the MM? if so, how?
The owner manual discusses reseting for engine oil changes, but I haven't found anything for the rear diff. fluid. FWIT, I did use Honda's DPDF II.
Thanks
Rich
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Thanks for the response.
According to the Owner Manual, pg 347, submenu 6, there's a symbol A6 or B6 that prompts for the rear differential fluid to be changed. Maybe that's all that happens and no reset is needed?
I'm glad the Honda mechanic told me about the fluid, it was really dirty compared to the new fluid. It doesn't make the shudder/growl as it was prior to the fluid change. Initially I thought maybe it was a characterist of the AWD (never had one, just 4WD with lockout hubs and manual shifter in the cab).
Thanks! That is exactly why I bought a Honda! I looked at Consumer Reports and Toyota and Honda were the top two across the board that were dependable and reliable. The CRV replaced a Sienna that we've had for 13 yrs. Very little went wrong and it fit our needs. I'm sure the CRV will do the same. We've only had it a few weeks, but really like it. It's a good time of the year to have an AWD although we haven't had much snow in the Denver area yet.
This will be the second Honda I've owned. The first (if it counts) was a 1981 CB750 motorcycle, that was a lot of fun, ha. Lot's of road trips.
Keep track of services performed from now on.
You will find that the MM triggers oil changes based on variable driving criteria (cold starts, hours running, rpms) but the other services come up 'close to' an oil change. So, if you reset the MM (and ignore or perform services out-of-sync) you will lose the accuracy of the MM.
It is suggested that you perform any services that you don't have records for: ATF (30K miles) rear diff fluid (30K miles) brake fluid (every 3 years regardless of miles). Engine and cabin filters can be removed and checked visually.
Coolant should be done at about 10 years then 5 years after that. Spark plugs/valve clearances should be checked around 100K. (I have checked valve lash every 50 - 60K and found them out each time FWIW)
You will find that the MM triggers oil changes based on variable driving criteria (cold starts, hours running, rpms) but the other services come up 'close to' an oil change. So, if you reset the MM (and ignore or perform services out-of-sync) you will lose the accuracy of the MM.
It is suggested that you perform any services that you don't have records for: ATF (30K miles) rear diff fluid (30K miles) brake fluid (every 3 years regardless of miles). Engine and cabin filters can be removed and checked visually.
Coolant should be done at about 10 years then 5 years after that. Spark plugs/valve clearances should be checked around 100K. (I have checked valve lash every 50 - 60K and found them out each time FWIW)
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