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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I had a quick question. This is my first post, so please excuse me if I'm in the wrong forum section.
I recently managed to get myself a garage at my apt. Now when I drive my car into the garage and come to a complete stop, I begin to hear a rattling noise with the transmission engaged and my leg being on the brake.
This rattling noise goes away when the transmission is put into Park or Neutral. And as soon as it's engaged to 'D' or 'R', the rattling sound starts again. It's very intermittent but at the same time continuous - It's not periodic in nature. Something like "Kat kat ka kat ...... kat kat .....kat kat kat kat" continuously.
Previously I could not discern this sound while in open parking spaces. I can only hear it while in the wooden garage as the garage amplifies the sound.
This is a 2010 Honda CRV LX, 4WD, with 45K miles on it. I'm sure this has something to do with the transmission.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 

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My guess would be it would be something in the exhaust. Check on the heat shields around the catalytic converter and work from there. You would think they would always rattle, but when you put the car in gear it puts a higher load on the engine and the engine pivots slightly in the mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Shryp. I'll check the heat shields around the catalytic converter for any loose sections. I also planned on taking it to the dealer. Not sure how much would that cost me. For most other things, I work under the car using ramps. So turning the car on and going under is not something that I would do.
 

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Good suggestion, and if it is the shield, just have it removed. You will not notice any difference when it is removed! These always go after about 5 years give or take!
 

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Sounds like the reduced RPMs while in drive is just right for an exhaust piece or other loose item to rattle. Put the park break on while in gear, making sure the vehicle won't move, and then get low to the ground and try pinpoint the vibration.
 

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could also be a cracked bracket that holds the exhaust....i had a similar thing on a 2005 civic. The bracket near the Catalytic converter was cracked and made lots of noise when I was barely moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
bad news...

So I engaged the transmission with the parking brakes on and went under the car. It seems to me that the sound -intermittent clicking- is coming from the transmission. That's really not a good sign. I'll be taking it to the dealership this week. The car still has powertran warranty. I hope the dealerships don't give me some sTory to say this was my fault. I'll be damned of they do. Any idea how much am I looking at worst case?
 

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Noises are often very hard to localize. I'm still betting it's the exhaust (your symptoms are classic), or perhaps something else that's simply loose. Let's hope anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Verdict is in.....

So turns out the steering wheel pump is bad and this is not covered under the Powertran warranty. Dealership is charging me $573 for replacement with a re-manufactured part. Declined this outrageous chaarge. The diagnosis cost me $70.
Comments and suggestions are welcome. I hate these large costs,

Thanks,
 

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Other than the rattle at idle with engine engaged, does the steering seem to have any other problems, leaks, difficulty turning at slow speeds etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not that I have noticed any difficulty while turning. It has been the same. One this the technician did was made me turn the steering wheel while engine engaged with the parking brake on. I think the rattling/clicking increases when this is done. They then took my car to the garage where I couldnt't tell what was done. Then they confirmed it's the power steering pump. Not sure why the fix is so expensive. I'm getting the pump for like $150 on ebay.
There is another thread on this forum about the power steering system making a sound. I need to read all the pages to see if that is the same problem.

Thanks,
 

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First thing I would do ...

There is another thread on this forum about the power steering system making a sound. I need to read all the pages to see if that is the same problem. Thanks,
I would do a full fluid exchange.

But then, I do that to all fluids every 3 years, sometimes even with less than 20k miles.

2nd, I would replace the idler bearing. Might have to replace the entire unit.

My '07 was exhibiting the exact symptom, rattle idling in D. We all thought it was the PS pump, but it was the idler.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would do a full fluid exchange.

But then, I do that to all fluids every 3 years, sometimes even with less than 20k miles.

2nd, I would replace the idler bearing. Might have to replace the entire unit.

My '07 was exhibiting the exact symptom, rattle idling in D. We all thought it was the PS pump, but it was the idler.
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Downunder47 - you may be absolutely right!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Th5PDQ98-fE&list=UU-H3CPr1NxLxqRUxno5PCBQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbtULXASeqU&list=UU-H3CPr1NxLxqRUxno5PCBQ

If you look at these two videos (especially the second one), you will see that the tensioner (below the pump) jerks only when you hear the sound. This makes me believe that the problem is not with the steering pump but with the idealer bearing, that you suggested.
I called up the dealership and notified them that probably their diagnosis was wrong. They said that if I can get a documentation from another mechanic saying that the problem was fixed without changing the Steering pump, I would be refunded the diagnosis cost.
So please have a look at this video and give me your honest opinion. I believe you have beaten even the mechanics at the dealership in the diagnosis.
Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
 

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Try for verification?

=============================================================
Downunder47 - you may be absolutely right!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Th5PDQ98-fE&list=UU-H3CPr1NxLxqRUxno5PCBQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WbtULXASeqU&list=UU-H3CPr1NxLxqRUxno5PCBQ

If you look at these two videos (especially the second one), you will see that the tensioner (below the pump) jerks only when you hear the sound. This makes me believe that the problem is not with the steering pump but with the idealer bearing, that you suggested.
I called up the dealership and notified them that probably their diagnosis was wrong. They said that if I can get a documentation from another mechanic saying that the problem was fixed without changing the Steering pump, I would be refunded the diagnosis cost.
So please have a look at this video and give me your honest opinion. I believe you have beaten even the mechanics at the dealership in the diagnosis.
Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

If you can reach something down in there, I would use a long 3/8" drive socket extension, to put some pressure on the idler the noise may stop, or change sound dramatically. This ads to the suspition it is the culprit but of course not absolute.

In my case it was still in Extended Honda Care so I didn't really care what it was. The service manager and I listened and shook our heads. He got his youngest set of ears who said it might be the pump or idler! I picked it up the next day and they reported it was the idler.

A valuable concept for such instances, from Harbor Freight:


Stethoscopes.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
If you can reach something down in there, I would use a long 3/8" drive socket extension, to put some pressure on the idler the noise may stop, or change sound dramatically. This ads to the suspition it is the culprit but of course not absolute.

In my case it was still in Extended Honda Care so I didn't really care what it was. The service manager and I listened and shook our heads. He got his youngest set of ears who said it might be the pump or idler! I picked it up the next day and they reported it was the idler.

A valuable concept for such instances, from Harbor Freight:


View attachment 29906
Thank you 'downunder47' for all your valuable suggestions. I'll keep you posted. I can only imagine if I had to allow the dealership to go ahead with the $600 repairs (PS pump), what it would be like. Then they would say something like 'ye and your idealer pulley bearing was bad too and so we charged you an additional $100 to get that fixed'.

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If that were my car making that noise (second video) there's no way I'd let a dealer change out the pump.
When was the belt last changed and was the idler checked at that time too?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So the culprit was the tensioner assembly. Previously I replaced only the idler pulley(part of the tensioner assembly) and that did not help.
After replacing the entire assembly ($73 from AutoZ), the problem was no more.
Now it's time to fight for my refund ($70) from the dealership for the wrong diagnosis. I would hate to spend $600 to replace the PS pump at the dealership only to see the rattling sound still there.

Thank you everybody especially 'downunder47' for your valuable suggestions.
 
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