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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!
I just installed Uhaul #78221 (Same as Valley #82163). It was easy and took 30 min. It arrived with bolt holes 1/2" off but a solid whack w 6 lbs hammer (a piece wood between to protect powder coating) did the job. Either their jig is off or FedEx dropped it....
I went for Uhaul because it's well made hitch, has highest rating (4000lbs) and was cheap, too . $ 125.00 with shipping. A great deal!
Installation:

1. Jack the tail up. Put jack stands under the frame.
2. Remove the rear muffler.
- They don't ask to do this but it only takes 5min and deep 12mm socket. Then you get free access to the bolts (17mm socket). You don't need to replace sealer ring at the flance. Spray rubber donuts with WD40 or Fairy to help removal & installation.
3. Check if holes allign, adjust if not (I used hammer).
4. Tighten 4 bolts but not all the way. measure if hitch is centered on the car.
5. Tighten tow hook bolt (19mm socket). Use thin washers to shim it between the bracket and the hook (I used one 1.0mm per side for perfect fit). The way it comes there's too much play, If you tighten w/o washers powder coating will crack.
6. Remove 4 bolts one at time, use BLUE LockTite adn tighten all the way.
7. Paint a stripe cross the bolt heads to check if they stay solid.
Don't buy a receiver before you know how high your trailer tonque is at towing position. This hitch sits pretty low ( receiver hole center 13" off the ground) and far in (6" from the receiver bolt hole to the edge of the bumper). You need raised neck receiver and 6-8" long (from the bolt hole to the center of the ball).

BTW - I started the engine rear muffler off and it sounded NICE! A perfect, mean & mellow sound :) I may get custom made stainless classpack later.
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WIRING QUESTION: How do I remove the rear left panel to get access to the factory towing plug? All they advice is "Remove rear panel". Great... But how? Where are the clips and how to get them out nicely? Thanks!
 

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Hi!
I just installed Uhaul #78221 (Same as Valley #82163). It was easy and took 30 min. It arrived with bolt holes 1/2" off but a solid whack w 6 lbs hammer (a piece wood between to protect powder coating) did the job. Either their jig is off or FedEx dropped it....
I went for Uhaul because it's well made hitch, has highest rating (4000lbs) and was cheap, too . $ 125.00 with shipping. A great deal!
Installation:

1. Jack the tail up. Put jack stands under the frame.
2. Remove the rear muffler.
- They don't ask to do this but it only takes 5min and deep 12mm socket. Then you get free access to the bolts (17mm socket). You don't need to replace sealer ring at the flance. Spray rubber donuts with WD40 or Fairy to help removal & installation.
3. Check if holes allign, adjust if not (I used hammer).
4. Tighten 4 bolts but not all the way. measure if hitch is centered on the car.
5. Tighten tow hook bolt (19mm socket). Use thin washers to shim it between the bracket and the hook (I used one 1.0mm per side for perfect fit). The way it comes there's too much play, If you tighten w/o washers powder coating will crack.
6. Remove 4 bolts one at time, use BLUE LockTite adn tighten all the way.
7. Paint a stripe cross the bolt heads to check if they stay solid.
Don't buy a receiver before you know how high your trailer tonque is at towing position. This hitch sits pretty low ( receiver hole center 13" off the ground) and far in (6" from the receiver bolt hole to the edge of the bumper). You need raised neck receiver and 6-8" long (from the bolt hole to the center of the ball).

BTW - I started the engine rear muffler off and it sounded NICE! A perfect, mean & mellow sound :) I may get custom made stainless classpack later.
-----------------
WIRING QUESTION: How do I remove the rear left panel to get access to the factory towing plug? All they advice is "Remove rear panel". Great... But how? Where are the clips and how to get them out nicely? Thanks!
go here and watch the video.
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118427.htm?vehicleid=20079903

it's not very hard to do the wiring and i only removed the side panel about half way and i pulled on it a bit and stick my hand inside.
take your time in removing the plastic panels/plastic pins coz they break easily. i did mine slowly/gently and i still managed to break 1 plastic pin and i think it took me around 30-45 mins. if you do it fast, you can probably do it in 15-20 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! That video helped. Everything went well.
BTW - The plug is high up next to the window. Not down and back.
I bought "REESE" brand receiver and it's way too loose for Uhaul hitch. I'm going to weld more material to get it perfect. Maybe Uhaul has larger receivers?
PS. CRV tows very well 3500 lbs load BUT it's hunting for gears 4th and 4+OD too much. Gotta drive faster than 60MPH or 50MPH. Up hill's not a problem thanks to 3rd gear lock-up. There should be 4th gear OD lock out as well. Towing milage is amazing - 22.5MPG fully loaded!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Direct from Uhaul (net store)
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- A few thoughts after 2000+ miles of towing small car trailer:
1. Excellent gas mileage. 29MPG flat land, 22MPG hilly high ways while towing.
2. CRV is NOT good for towing :( No torque. The tranny hunts for 4th and 5th gear all the time. There should be a 4th gear lock out. 3rd gear lock out is ok for up hill but too low for normal use. To keep tranny on 5th gear I must go 75MPH, at least.
- I wonder if there's a way to add 4th gear lock up? Then it would be OK.
3. The engine belongs to a sports car, not a heavy SUV. It's very top end power, hi revving beast.
Otherwise, I can't complain EXEPT the lousy seat! It's a real back braker. The lumbar suppot is too high and wrong shape. I'm looking for a RECARO or SPARCO update.
So, what would be better for me? Maybe Saturn VUE with excellent Honda 3.5 engine, but Saturn's gone so no resale value.
 

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Direct from Uhaul (net store)
------------------------------------
- A few thoughts after 2000+ miles of towing small car trailer:
1. Excellent gas mileage. 29MPG flat land, 22MPG hilly high ways while towing.
2. CRV is NOT good for towing :( No torque. The tranny hunts for 4th and 5th gear all the time. There should be a 4th gear lock out. 3rd gear lock out is ok for up hill but too low for normal use. To keep tranny on 5th gear I must go 75MPH, at least.
- I wonder if there's a way to add 4th gear lock up? Then it would be OK.
3. The engine belongs to a sports car, not a heavy SUV. It's very top end power, hi revving beast.
Otherwise, I can't complain EXEPT the lousy seat! It's a real back braker. The lumbar suppot is too high and wrong shape. I'm looking for a RECARO or SPARCO update.
So, what would be better for me? Maybe Saturn VUE with excellent Honda 3.5 engine, but Saturn's gone so no resale value.
Actually it has a fairly flat torque curve. Not as good as the Nissan 2.5L, but still pretty good. The real problem is the gearing is so tall. Good for fuel economy with a light load, but not ideal for a SUV. With it's size and weight, Honda would do well to add 100cc and a 10% boost in peak torque.

I do agree that a 5th gear lockout would be ideal, instead of just 4th & 5th. Although I found the trnasmission tends to lock up the torque converter when towing and hold 4th gear anyway at higher speeds where 5th doesn't have enough power.

Either that or a 6 speed transmissoin with maybe a towing or "hill" mode that holds a lower gear with the torque converter locked.

I find the seat to be excellent. But everyone's body is different.
 

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To the OP... the blue locktite is a good idea. I found that I had plenty of space to work without raising the rear of the vehcile on jack stands.
 
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