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Recently, I've been noticing that at 30-45 mph I occasionally (other than the issue happening between 30-45, it appears to be random and doesn't always happen..)experience a shudder (like I'm driving over rumble strips) that happens momentarily, and goes away. If I take my foot off the gas pedal as soon as I feel it, the problem goes away.

I also experienced this in my 2003 Element before trading it in, but never did anything to remedy the issue.

After doing some research, I found that most people are suggesting the three drain/refill method with Honda ATF as it seems to alleviate the issue.

I should note that I'm at 62,000 miles now and have never changed/serviced the transmission fluid (also never got a code/reminder to do so with the maintenance minder..)

I'm happy to do the service as it seems simple, and easy enough. Just one area I'm a little hazy on..

After the first drain and fill, how long/how many miles should I drive to mix up the transmission fluid before draining and filling again? Is there a set speed I should reach for a set amount of time? And after the three drain and fills, how many miles before I do the service again? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer!

-scott



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Discussion Starter #2
****Also, does anybody know the total fluid capacity of the auto transmission in my 2011 CRV?

I'll probably just order a case of 12 quarts of DW-1 on amazon as it seems priced right.
 

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For the capacity check the owner's manual. Or you can download it on the Honda site. If you would like better than the DW-1 go with The Amsoil. I have read & seen this Amsoil in action from the Honda Odyssey forum. I have a friend whom I told to use Amsoil to prevent of the transmission from going bad. I have seen his Odyssey after using the Amsoil the Hood Temp dropped significantly. Just my 2 cents. Plus it will help prevent future problem. I'm not sure if your year has an inline filter.
 

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Warranty void with non-equivalent fluid.

****Also, does anybody know the total fluid capacity of the auto transmission in my 2011 CRV?

I'll probably just order a case of 12 quarts of DW-1 on amazon as it seems priced right.
Good plan.

Looking on eBay, of the first 4 versions of Amsoil Transmission Fluid I found, 3 listed Honda Z1 and the third did not list Honda at all. Their web site does list equivalency with Honda DW-1 for something though.

Be VERY careful with any brand of fluid that it has Honda DW-1 listed on the bottle.

From the 2012 Owners Manual;

DW_1WarrantyNotice.jpg

Honda began using DW-1 in 2011 so the above is likely to apply to 2011, 12, 13, and 14?
 

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Don't be surprised if you use more than what your manual calls for in a drain and fill. I have a 2012 and did a drain and fill just yesterday. Second time I have done it. And both times I used about 3.33 quarts. Instructions say around 2.7 quarts is needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all!

In the owners manual, it does recommend DW-1 for my 2011:
Screen Shot 2016-06-26 at 7.06.55 AM.png

I've never been able to get behind Amsoil anything..at first it was because of price--but nowadays it's more because I trust Honda far more than any third party brand. I'm sure Amsoil makes a fine product, just not for me.

Plus the case of 12 Honda DW-1 quarts on amazon will be perfect for my purposes.


thanks again!


-scott
 

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The driving in between drain and fills is mainly to just get the fluid (old and new) totally mixed up. Normally go through all the gears and into torque converter lockup (overdrive) and also into Reverse. Drive it through all those gears and get the ATF up to operating temp. Many will drive it for a week or longer between changes.
If the fluid looks clear and good and doesn't smell at all burnt after the first drain and fill, why change it again?

The owner's manual for the 2011 states 2.6 qts for 4WD per drain/fill and 7.2qts total capacity. So, a single drain and fill with those numbers gives you approx 36% new fluid. If as DIY Guy drained 3.3 qts when he did it, he replaced aprox 46% with his first drain and fill.

If your AT has an external atf filter, you would probably want to look into that also.

Buffalo4

PS: As far as the "Honda knows best" theory when referring to their ATs, it SURE wasn't true for the heavier Odysseys. Their old recommended Honda Z-1 atf was not up to par for the heavier Odysseys and was blamed for the multitudes of AT failures in that vehicle. Yes, Honda also stated that their Z-1 was the ONLY fluid to use to avoid AT damage. Total BS.
However, almost no performance complaints about their Honda DW-1 atf. So, yes, it sounds like an excellent atf now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Buffalo4! I appreciate the info with regards to the amount of drive time and Honda ATF fluid--

Based on what I've read over the last 48 hours about Honda transmissions and the "shudder" issue and solution, the general consensus is that Honda transmissions require a little more loving than most other brands. Either way, thanks again for the info!

-scott
 

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If the fluid looks clear and good and doesn't smell at all burnt after the first drain and fill, why change it again?
Buffalo, doesn't one have to be concerned that the "additive" package in a lubricant can become depleted even when the fluid itself "looks" clear?

The additives being, among other things, anti-foaming and also conditioners for the belts, etc ?

The OP is at 62K miles. The recommended service interval is 90K (I think), which means his ATF has reached 2/3's its life. Wouldn't atleast two drain/fills be prudent at this mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's kind of what I was thinking...

Since I'm only at 62k, shouldn't one drain and fill be enough..?

Thanks again


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Since I am not certain of the specific recommendations for a 2011 MY, I will offer a generic formula:

If a recommended complete ATF change interval is 90K miles and it requires 3 drain/fills to complete the recommended fluid replacement, then one drain/fill would be required at 30K and two drain/fills at 60K in order to replenish the additive packet and remove contaminants suspended in the fluid.

IMO.
 

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That's kind of what I was thinking...

Since I'm only at 62k, shouldn't one drain and fill be enough..?

Thanks again
I don't know the number of miles that the atf should be changed at on the 2011 CRV.
A 'change' usually means 1 drain and fill, AFAIK.
But, since you are experiencing a shudder and your OEM fluid is DW-1( a high quality synthetic atf), I would really consider at least 2 drain and fills with driving time in between each.
If you tow a lot, etc, perhaps that is causing the shudder. The fluid change is for the additive pkg also, as ArcticDriver points out, and it gives you the chance to see and clean the particles off the magnetic drain plug. A new washer is recommended, although many just reuse the old one.

On the 2001 CRV the ATF change was stated at 96 mo or 120k miles. A change is a single drain and fill. A flush is 4 drains and fills.

So, yes, if it was mine, I would do at least 2 drain and fills because of the shudder. A fairly low cost and pretty easy to do procedure and it could really help prolong the life of an expensive AT.
The following link is for a 2009 CRV and you may find it interesting: http://maultech.com/chrislott/blog/20120723_crv_atf.html

More research on the cause of that 'shudder' should be done. Perhaps it is not the atf at all.
Check some of the links below these posts under the Similar Threads header.
Do some research to see if it could be a Torque Converter issue or PCM software update problem.
I would also call a Dealer and ask about any AT warranty info for your yr CRV.
Since it is possible that some AT warranty could be in effect (even a 'goodwill' one), I would only use Honda DW-1.

AND, if the ATF is real dark and there are a lot of particles on the magnetic drain plug, I would do the 'flush' (4 drain and fills).
The shudder at those speeds seem to be related to a Torque Converter issue. Google.



Buffalo4
 

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i had exact same shudder like what you described.

did three drain and fill and shudder is gone.

i've used honda dw1 ordered from amazon.com
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i had exact same shudder like what you described.

did three drain and fill and shudder is gone.

i've used honda dw1 ordered from amazon.com

Thanks Tango,

From what I've read (here..and various other spots on the world-wide-interwebs..) the drain/fill procedure seems to be the logical place to start--

BTW..I never knew that color was called Red Tango..LOVE it! (makes my 2011 opal sage metallic look lame as anything :)
 

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Today I did the three drain/fill procedure--

wow

I would have never said my transmission shifted hard, or abnormally--however the difference after just the first drain and fill was immediate and drastic.

Shifting is now smoother; the transmission is more willing to get into (and stay in) top gear -- fantastic.

I got the case of 12 on amazon, and with each drain I got out about just under three quarts so I have just over three quarts remaining--I was contemplating doing the drain and fill once more, but by the third drain, it was coming out the same color and consistency as I was putting back in; so I figured I'd hold on the the remaining fresh transmission fluid and do a drain and fill within my next two or three oil changes.

Thanks all for the advice and opinions--BTW, the shudder has gone and after about an hour of driving (combined city, and highway) I can't replicate it at all--but most of all, I'm happy to report that the shifts and general performance of the transmission seem to be completely refreshed. Thanks again!

-scott
 

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Mine was shuddering between 3/4 gears and 4/5 gears. RPMs were limited to 3000. CEL produced P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). The problem was a broken wire to the CPS. The 5-volt signal wire between the engine control module and the CPS was broken at the 1st connector (there are two connectors, the 2nd being down by the CPS).

A way to check this is to see if voltage is at the last (2nd) connector. If there is no voltage on one of the wires (12v, 5v or ground), then one is broken.

After splicing the wire, the shudder is gone and RPMs go above 3000. There must be a "limp" mode that is enacted when the CPS is not getting a signal (versus the vehicle not running). Not sure what caused the wire to separate.

Hope this helps. Always check/trace wiring.
 

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Recently, I've been noticing that at 30-45 mph I occasionally (other than the issue happening between 30-45, it appears to be random and doesn't always happen..)experience a shudder (like I'm driving over rumble strips) that happens momentarily, and goes away. If I take my foot off the gas pedal as soon as I feel it, the problem goes away.

I also experienced this in my 2003 Element before trading it in, but never did anything to remedy the issue.

After doing some research, I found that most people are suggesting the three drain/refill method with Honda ATF as it seems to alleviate the issue.

I should note that I'm at 62,000 miles now and have never changed/serviced the transmission fluid (also never got a code/reminder to do so with the maintenance minder..)

I'm happy to do the service as it seems simple, and easy enough. Just one area I'm a little hazy on..

After the first drain and fill, how long/how many miles should I drive to mix up the transmission fluid before draining and filling again? Is there a set speed I should reach for a set amount of time? And after the three drain and fills, how many miles before I do the service again? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer!

-scott



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Check dealer for transmission software update.
 
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