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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am purchasing a new-to-me 2011 CR-V EX-L AWD with 46k miles on it. I plan on performing the following/below maintenance items. Does anyone have anything additional they would recommend? TYIA!

-Chris

1. Replace oil and filter (Warren oil, Mobil 1 filter).
2. Replace air filter (OEM).
3. Replace cabin air filter (OEM).
4. Drain and fill transmission with ATF DW-1 (~3 quarts).
5. Replace spark plugs (Bosch Double Iridium Spark Plugs 9619).
6. Replace coolant (~2 gallons Honda Long-life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2).
7. Drain and fill rear differential with Honda Dual Pump Fluid II (~1.5 quarts).
 

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2007 CRV
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Would use NGK spark plugs. I think that is OEM.
The drain and fill of the rear differential (I did it today) got to use a pump to fill the rear diff
Makes it easier with the right tools.

Couple of other things, ...
Check the brake rotors and pads
And bleed brakes and fill with new brake fluid
And, replace power steering fluid (check youtube for some tips and tricks)

Do visual inspection of shocks and struts
Looking for leaking fluids
Also look at the CV axle, are the boots in good condition?
Test struts and shocks by bouncing vehicle

Oh, with front end up in the air, check ...
The outer tie rod ends
And lower ball joints
And sway bar links
For play

Last but not least, inspect under side for rust
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would use NGK spark plugs. I think that is OEM.
The drain and fill of the rear differential (I did it today) got to use a pump to fill the rear diff
Makes it easier with the right tools.

Couple of other things, ...
Check the brake rotors and pads
And bleed brakes and fill with new brake fluid
And, replace power steering fluid (check youtube for some tips and tricks)

Do visual inspection of shocks and struts
Looking for leaking fluids
Also look at the CV axle, are the boots in good condition?
Test struts and shocks by bouncing vehicle

Oh, with front end up in the air, check ...
The outer tie rod ends
And lower ball joints
And sway bar links
For play

Last but not least, inspect under side for rust
Thank you for your reply and suggestions. I am having the vehicle professionally inspected prior to purchasing it.

I have added replacing the brake fluid as well as the power steering fluid to my list, and switched the spark plugs to NGK! :)
 

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2007 CRV EX
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check sway bar bushings (front/back). If they are still good, I'd take it off, apply a little silicon grease.
also, check to make sure sway bar links have no play in it. Another thing to check is the power steering pump, they have a tendency to leak on the bottom in the middle where to two halves mated together. If that leaks, you can buy an o-ring kit and bearing and rebuild it. It's an easy job. Youtube has video on how to do it.

if you have the belt off, I'd check the tensioner pulley, make sure the bearing is still good. But before you take off the belt, run the engine see if the tensioner pulley is stationary and not fluttering/oscillating. If that's good, turn on the A/C and make sure it still stationary under load. If fluttering/oscillating in either case, I'd replace the tensioner pulley assembly. In the case, just the pulley bearing is bad, you can just replace the bearing (approx $7 from Amazon), provided your pulley is still good (smooth and no rough spots) , or can you do the whole pulley for about $17.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
check sway bar bushings (front/back). If they are still good, I'd take it off, apply a little silicon grease.
also, check to make sure sway bar links have no play in it. Another thing to check is the power steering pump, they have a tendency to leak on the bottom in the middle where to two halves mated together. If that leaks, you can buy an o-ring kit and bearing and rebuild it. It's an easy job. Youtube has video on how to do it.

if you have the belt off, I'd check the tensioner pulley, make sure the bearing is still good. But before you take off the belt, run the engine see if the tensioner pulley is stationary and not fluttering/oscillating. If that's good, turn on the A/C and make sure it still stationary under load. If fluttering/oscillating in either case, I'd replace the tensioner pulley assembly. In the case, just the pulley bearing is bad, you can just replace the bearing (approx $7 from Amazon), provided your pulley is still good (smooth and no rough spots) , or can you do the whole pulley for about $17.
Thank you, Austin! I will be sure to mention these items to the shop performing the pre-purchase inspection.
 

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Seems to be very low miles for a 2011! Good find! Do you know any of the history?
 

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2011 Honda CR-V EXL
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To me you've made a good choice. My wife and I have an '11 with 37K on its clock. This car has been 100% bullet proof since we bought it 10 years ago. I wish you the same luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To me you've made a good choice. My wife and I have an '11 with 37K on its clock. This car has been 100% bullet proof since we bought it 10 years ago. I wish you the same luck.
Thanks, Whaap.
 

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Avoid Bosch products. Unknown to me, the Civic we bought in 2014 had Bosch spark plugs. Well, the ceramic insulator inside cylinder #2 decided to shatter and ended up burning the valves, thankfully not scoring the cylinder walls. But that cost me the use of the car, a rebuilt cylinder head and dozens of unpaid hours fixing it. Their sensors are useless--on another forum, many who replaced their OE O2 sensors with Bosch found that they were still getting error codes; replacing with Denso (one of the OE brands) cured it.

NGK plugs will work properly and last a long time, and the NGK and Denso plugs are what is recommended. 👍👍
 
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