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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Long time lurker here - first time not being able to search and find that I am looking for.

As the title says - I have no heat. I checked the tubes on the firewall - both are hot. I stumbled across another thread that said he unplugged and plugged the connector on some motor that controls the heat flow, and he also provided a diagram however I am unsure of where the component is based on the diagram.

Anyway - the component I am looking for is #13 - is this behind the glovebox? Or do I need to remove the side cover on the dash and its behind there? Thanks for any help as I am going to tackle this project tomorrow.

Thanks,
Mike


SWA4B1720C.jpg
 

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Not sure, but look under the dash on the passenger's side of the center console.
This a picture from a 2004 Pilot, but it may be similar.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/14-problems/30949-2004-air-mix-motor-cleaning.html
Some 2012 had heater core problems: http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/14-problems-issues/16991-heating-right-half-car.html
OR
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aVzyMOsArw for a 2007 Civic

Hopefully someone that worked on that will be able to tell you more. #13 is probably the air/mix control motor.

Have you checked the fuse for that motor? I have no idea on which fuse it is.

Do you get any blinking lights on either the 'air recir' button or on the A/C indicator button. They can give you a trouble code.
To get them:
1)Turn the ignition to OFF and then ON II .
2)Set the Fan Control dial to OFF, the Temp Dial to Max Cool, and select the Vent mode.
3)Turn the ignition to OFF and then ON II
4)Press and HOLD the recir button, then press the 'REAR' Window Defogger 5 times within 10 sec.
5)Release the Rear Window Defogger button and the Recir button.
6)The Recir button should blink 2 times. Then the self-diagnostic begins.
7)The blower motor will run at various speeds during the test
In case of multiple problems, the recir will blink to the lowest digital trouble code only
That is out of a 2007 CRV manual so more research may be needed for your 2011 if you want to try it.


Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Buffalo- thanks for your help. I ran the diagnostic test that you recommended and I get two blinking lights , which I searched around and found it means that I have a short in the air mix controller. The manual I am looking at says to replace it. Any ideas where that is located?

DTC indicator 2: A Short in the Air Mix Control Motor Circuit
 

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Did you look at the Pilot link? It may be there or somewhere else. I don't know, but if no one here tells you , search the Internet more.
That's what I did.
Perhaps a short is indicated if the motor can't move because of stuck linkage,etc. That's the limit of my input. :eek:
Buffalo4
 

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black2010 - air mix control motor is on left side of heater unit up under dash -drivers side of car -I have 2010 fsm and it says to check linkage for free movement? Not sure if linkage is visable or not but I have a 2011 crv so I will look tomorrow -I have the test procedure for the mix control motor etc, basically it says disconnect 7 pin connector and apply battery power to pin 1 and ground to pin 2 -motor should run and stop at max heat position -remove power as soon as it stops. Reversing connections should cause it to go to max cool. If it does not run -remove it and check linkage/door for smooth movement . -might be easier for you to pm me for further info if you need it, bobcat
 

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Hi folks - same problem with my 2007 - from the thread, I disconnected the power to the air mix control motor and with the car running and heat control to max, plugged it in\out a couple of times and it started to rotate. I tried without power ie: engine off and didn't work. Hardest thing is getting at it. If you slide your hand along the gas petal\linkage your knuckle will bump right against it (after removing the plastic panel).
 

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I had the same problem with my 2011 CRV and John Wellhauser's solution fixed the problem.

My fan and the different modes worked ok but the temperature control knob wouldn't change the temperature. The air temperature was stuck on full cold.

I ran the HVAC diagnostic test and got the DTC 2 code, which indicates "A Short in the Air Mix Control Motor Circuit." I started following the 2007 service manual troubleshooting guide but then detoured to follow the steps in this thread. They worked and the problem is solved. That's good, because I really wasn't looking forward to removing the air mix control motor. By the way, this is item #13 in the OP's diagram.

The air mix control motor is located above the driver's right foot at about shin level, on a panel just above and to the right of the accelerator pedal. Basically, you disconnect the green plug from the air mix control motor, then plug it back in WHILE THE IGNITION SWITCH IS ON (POSITION II). If you plug it back in while the ignition is off, the computer doesn't recognize that anything has changed and the problem remains. It seems the computer was trying to protect the HVAC control unit by disabling power from reaching the air mix control motor, which the computer thought was shorted. Rather than potentially sending power to a shorted motor each time the car was driven, the computer stopped trying until it received positive notification that the motor's electrical connection had changed.

When everything is working correctly, you can see the white motor linkage rotate as you rotate the temperature control knob. If the problem recurs for me, I'll suspect some binding in the linkage is causing the motor to draw too much current.
 

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