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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife just purchased a 2011 LX 4wd. I ordered one of the DEI 545T kits to automate her headlights, as she is the queen of dead batteries...Even with the warning chime, I'm sure that I'll be jumping her battery at some point.

Has anyone installed this kit on a 2011 or model with the same V wiring harness? I would like to know the color codes and locations of the wires needed for this installation.

I have installed remote starters on other vehicles, so the actual work is no problem. I haven't been able to find a wiring diagram anywhere yet.

If anyone is able to help me out, I'd sure appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update

I still have not received my DEI 545T. But I have done some research into the wiring, and thought I'd post an update as I have seen a few other posts with related questions.

First, the 2011 V is positive switched.

On the relay connector for the 545T, I'm planning on the following:
1) Run a large gauge wire from the + Battery connector through the firewall
2) Purchase three inline fuse holders
3) Run three wires from the wire installed in step #1 above, and use a fuse that is rated the same as the parking light circuit, headlight circuit, and whatever the rating on the 545T power input is (Red +12v Constant on the Main connector of the 545T - will update when I get the unit). The wires for the parking light and headlight will be the Brown and Violet relay inputs.
4) determine location of headlight fuses and parking light fuses under dash and install the relay output wires to the corresponding fuse using a piggy back connector if I can find one for the mini-fuses Honda used.
5) Connect the Yellow + Ignition wire to a blue wire, pin 6 on the brown 7 pin ignition plug. I still need to locate this wire in the car.

I have not yet decided if I am going to connect the wiper switch wires or not yet. I probably will not.

Once I get the DEI 545T I'll update with further information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update 2

On the 2011, there is one single fuse for the lo beam headlights, it's a 20 amp, and is clearly marked on the fuse map. I had about 5 minutes this morning to look at it before work, and forgot the exact fuse location, or I would post it. I will post the location in my final instructions.

Hopefully someone can help me out with this one... Which fuse controls the parking lights? There is no fuse labeled as just for the parking lights, so it must be in with another circuit. I could pull fuses until I find it, but if someone knows, it'd save me some time.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Final Update including corrections

OK folks. This is a pretty simple install. I have no pictures, so don't ask for any. :)

OK, first off you need to get your +12 constant and +12 ignition. These are in the steering column, easily accessible by removing the shroud around the column. While you're at it, take off the fuse map and the bottom knee panel that it attaches to. It'll make your life a lot easier. There are 3 phillips head screws that hold the steering column top and bottom together. Make note that the center screw is a machine screw and the other two are just sheet metal screws.

Once you have the shroud off, look for a BROWN 7 pin connector. It will have large gauge wires in it. The white wire is +12 constant. The Blue wire is +12 ignition. Oh yeah, if you haven't already done so, disconnect + from your battery. To splice in the wires, I usually will get about a 3/4" section of insulator removed from the wire I'm splicing into and then poke my volt meter probe through the center of the strands to make a hole. I slide the splice into the hole, wrap the splice around the other wire, solder it, tape it, and then put a small wire tie to help hold the wires together. You don't want +12 floating around loose.

Run your two new wires down along the wire harness that runs up the steering column. Zip tie it here and there to make it look nice, not that you'll ever see it again.

Now you need to get all of your +12 constant wires hooked and fused. To do this with the amp rating and separate headlight circuits for left and right headlights, you'll need to get some atm inline fuse holders and some fuses. Run all of the +12 wires (two from the relay pack and one red one from the main harness) towards the +12v constant wire you have hanging down. Put a 7.5amp fuse in both the brown wire and a 20 amp in the violet wire from the relay pack (I cut out the bigger atc holders and put in atm's as all I had was atm fuses). Wire nut and tape the +12v constant from the steering column, the two wires from the relay pack, and the red +12 from the main harness. The red +12 already comes fused (5amp).

Next, go ahead and run your ground. There's a nice set of eight or so grounds right behind the traction control button on the left side of the frame. Hook into that if you want. There are also tons of other places to hit a chassis ground.

Feed the photocell connector down through the corner where the a-pillar meets the dash closest to the door. It'll feed down nicely near the fuse box. The photocell has sticky tape on the bottom. I put mine approximately where the factory cell would be, and tucked the wire in between the a-pillar and the dash by carefully using a flathead screwdriver. Pull all the slack down below.

Next, you need to split the green headlight output wire into two wires to handle the separate lo beam left and right circuits. This part of the install is actually the trickiest due to the location of the appropriate fuses in the fuse box and the shape of the piggy back fuse connectors. You really only need two piggy back connectors for this job. Hook one of your two piggy backs into one of your new 10 amp lines and install the fuses in the piggy back.

Next grab another piggy back and install it onto the blue parking light relay output wire.

Remove fuses 15, 16, 17 if memory serves properly. Double check your fuse map to make sure I have the correct numbers, but for now I'll use the numbers I remember. They are marked something along the lines of "Ext Small" (Parkling lights, tail lights) and "LH Lo" and "RH Lo" or something along those lines. They are all three in a row, which makes the final hook up a little tricky.

Insert the parking light piggy back in fuse 15. next take the headlight output wire that you did not install a piggyback on and wrap the end of it around one leg of a 10amp fuse and install it into fuse 16. Next take the piggy back connector you made up for the other headlight output and insert it into fuse 17.

Next, plug all of the harnesses into the computer unit of the 545t and test it out. Something goofy with mine was that I had to have the switch for the 545t in "off" in order to make it work properly. Not sure why that is, maybe it says in the manual. If you've got everything hooked up properly, everything should work. High beams will only be available via the light switch on the steering column.

If everything tests out OK, it's time to find a place to mount the boxes and hide all the wires.

My specific application notes:

I did not fool around with the rf wires or the wiper switch wires. I cut them off, leaving about 4 inches in case I change my mind later on.

I used some industrial strength velcro that you can buy in little packs at lowes and home depot to attach my main box and my relays. I attached the main box on the backside of the knee board where there's a little covey. I then velcroed the relay's to the main box, and then tied up the wires werever I could to get them hidden.

I also cut the DRL wire inside the main box. There are four screws that hold it together, one of which was under a piece of tape. Just snip the wire and put a piece of electrical tape on each end if you choose to go that route.

Regular ATM fuses fit in the low profile fuse box, which is what I used for everything.

Hope this helps you guys out. Enjoy!
 
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