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Hello CR-V Owners -
I recently purchased CR-V EX-L with Nav. I see that the Heater though set to 'Hi' both sides does not produce considerable heat. With outside temp in 50s I guess you should feel it hot inside the car when you set your temp to upper 70s. Did anyone of you see the issue with the heater? I'm not sure if this would be relevant - I had the dealer install remote key too.
 

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I just bought the 2013 EX in November and since this week is the first really cold week we've had, the heater takes way too long to get hot air , or even warm air out. A co-worker just bought an Acura and says the same thing so it must be generally how they make the heaters at Honda/Acura. I had a 2002 Toyota Camry for 10 yrs and no matter how cold it was outside, within 3 blocks the hot air would be blowing. Also had an issue with the CD player on Sunday.. the CD wouldn't come out and the message "MECHA. ERROR" appeared on the screen. Left car at dealer this morning to solve the issue.
 

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Hello CR-V Owners -
I recently purchased CR-V EX-L with Nav. I see that the Heater though set to 'Hi' both sides does not produce considerable heat. With outside temp in 50s I guess you should feel it hot inside the car when you set your temp to upper 70s. Did anyone of you see the issue with the heater? I'm not sure if this would be relevant - I had the dealer install remote key too.
If you have it set to upper 70s the difference between outside, 50s, and inside (with you and possibly a passenger in there supplying some body heat loss) 60s, the temp difference is not great enough to get the system to supply full heat. It will be still drawing in outside air to mix with the heated air to moderate it so it does not go over the set temp. I would think your outside temp would have to be 30 degrees different to get full heat. Have you checked the inside temp to see if it is at set temp? If so it's doing it's job, if not it may just take a little longer than the system that just blows hot air in with no regard for the cabin temp.
 

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Have you tried setting Heater nob to hottest (on the right side, Red section) and switch on A/C button. Also, make sure to use the air within your car by pressing air circulation button. That should do the trick. Check vehicle manual for detailed instructions. One thing you must remember that Heater will work better only when the Engine hit up. So for first few miles, have patience and do not take of bean cap :)
 

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Thanks to everyone who have replied to my post. Sorry, did not have access to my laptop so long.

I live in RI and it has been cold in the last few days. I did setup the heat to the max. (turned the Heater knob until it showed 'Hi' on both sides), the air vents pointing to the face and feet, air circulation on and a/c off. With the Heat setting 'Hi' and the outside temperatures around (sometimes below) 30 deg should you not feel the heat (like really hot with 'Hi') after 20 mins of running the engine?
 

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Thanks to everyone who have replied to my post. Sorry, did not have access to my laptop so long.

I live in RI and it has been cold in the last few days. I did setup the heat to the max. (turned the Heater knob until it showed 'Hi' on both sides), the air vents pointing to the face and feet, air circulation on and a/c off. With the Heat setting 'Hi' and the outside temperatures around (sometimes below) 30 deg should you not feel the heat (like really hot with 'Hi') after 20 mins of running the engine?
After 5 min. (of driving, not idling) at 30 ambient you should have the highest temp. available. I don't think I would describe my heat as "really hot" but it is noticeably warm to hot to me. Take it back to the dealer. Traveler03 says his is hot, so it is possible. Tell the dealer that this is a safety issue and you will not drive the car like it is. You should be able to quickly defrost the windshield should it suddenly fog up in traffic. Ask to test drive another 2013 and compare. I doubt that installing a remote key would interfere with the heater.
 

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Hello, I too am experiencing the same difficulties with my heat system. I would be interested to know if the issue was resolved since the dealer took a look at it. I don't want to waste my time if this issue is a defect in their design. I have read and reread my manual for hints and have my settings same as you. Thanks.
 

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Thanks fixer! I feel noticeably warm to hot temp. Though I do not feel really hot, it is definitely comfortable. I guess that is how the design is. I definitely feel relieved now.
 

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We just bought a 2014 CR-V EXL and live in MN. We are not happy with the heater output.

I connected my ScanGauge II to the OBD-II port. This device provides access to values the ECM is receiving, so I am able to see the exact temperature of the engine coolant. When the car is cold and is started, I can watch the temp rise as the motor heats up. In our case, the thermostat starts to open at about 130 deg. I can discern this because the rate of rise in temperature flattens out because the thermostat is starting to allow coolant to flow to the radiator.

I can drive the car for 30 minutes around town and the temp is only in the low 160s. The car has to get out on the freeway before I see 190 deg and get good heat out of the heating system.

I took it to the dealer and told the service writer that the thermostat is opening early and my wife is complaining of poor heat output. He said, "CR-Vs don't have thermostat problems".

I tried to explain it to the service writer and later the service manager, and they still refused to agree there is a problem. I am extremely disappointed with the lack of any mechanical sense, or customer service.

I love everything else about the car. I plan to complain to Honda until I'm blue in the face. I also plan to fix it myself if they don't come through.

HerCR-V
 

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I've placed a complaint with Honda and they will have someone contact me. I'm looking forward to hearing what they have to say.

Saying that, I have to admit that after further study the car appears to be operating close, if not as, it is designed to operate.

What I've learned, on my own through internet research, is that the engine uses a "reverse coolant flow design". The temperature sensor is at the water inlet (top side of motor) and the thermostat is at the water outlet (bottom side of motor). Thanks to God for mechanical/physics knowledge (rudimentary), which allows me to understand that this means that the heater core sees the coolant AFTER it flows through the aluminum block, and the temperature sensor sees the coolant after the heater core. This "reverse flow design" is far superior to the conventional approach to engine coolant flow from a motor efficiency and reliability perspective. However, it sacrifices a little bit of creature comfort for the type of driving my wife uses the car for.

I'm glad we opted for the EX-L version with heated seats and an aftermarket auto start. I also will be installing a cold front (home made because no one offers one commercially) for the terribly cold months. (Today the forecasted high is below zero Fahrenheit, and tomorrow night is forecasted to be -25!)

HerCR-V

edit:
PS: I still will be conducting further research to be sure the radiator is not seeing coolant flow too early because of a thermostat that is opening too early. This will probably be done with an IR temperature sensor, comparing the thermostat housing and the radiator inlet temperatures during the warm-up process.
 

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Don't you love it when they make these stellar improvements that make the vehicle less useful to you?

Ha Ha LOL! FLCRV, I never thought I would find someone from Florida reading this thread.

It is -15F and I just went to town to pick my wife up from work. She had to turn down the fan on the way home. I can't tell you how happy that made her.

I used a couple of pieces of pipe insulation to close out the grille and partially close out the lower three holes on the bottom. 1/2" pieces cut to length filled out the grille openings and two 1'' pieces laid at the bottom, behind the three lower holes, cut to length so they fit tight, made the trip to town and back tonight much more enjoyable.

I don't think the foam is that noticeable. I'll try to post some pics if I get a chance to see it when the sun is shining and the temp is decent. I didn't have the Scan gauge II hooked up so I can't report any actual temps. The CR-V's gauge read normal.

HerCR-V
 

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Insulating the lines is a good way to reduce loss. It will make the ac cooler and the heater hotter. My friend did that and had a great improvement.
 

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This pipe insulation is closed cell foam. I did not open the slit, except for the small pieces around the "H". Only one of the two 1" diameter bottom pieces is visible in the picture. There is plenty of room for air to get up into the radiators in front, and over, the bottom pieces. The open space at the bottom right needs to be there for the engine's air intake. The top pieces are 1/2" diameter pieces.

This foam cost less than $4 and took less than 5 minutes to install. We will have to watch them at the car wash.

It's -18 today and just received a call from my wife, who is out running errands, and she is lovin' the performance of the heater and the car's gauge is in the normal operating position.

CRVColdFront.jpg

HerCR-V
 

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I should add: If anyone plans to do this, be extremely careful when inserting the bottom pieces. The fins on the condenser are VERY soft and will bend if you jamb the foam into them.

Also, make sure whoever is driving the car when the ambient air temperature rises knows to pull the foam pieces out so the engine doesn't overheat.

HerCR-V
 
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