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I would be curious on what would happen when you drive it like that in the summer heat.

Since it is winter and in the -1(f) temp then I would assume that the outside air shouldn't be a problem since air can still come from under the CRV, I think the air intake points down behind the battery? I wonder how low it is since sometimes when roads get flooded people go through it. It was unusual since most other cross over I have seen the air intake is usually just above the grill or right behind the headlight. The ones right on the grill are screwed if they go to fast and the water goes to the grill. The ones behind the headlight are somewhat better since it is shielded by the headlight.


Anyways, I didn't think the CRV heat was a problem, the lowest I manage to test it on so far is 13(f). This is coming from someone who leaves the house at 60 when it snows out and 62 if it is windy and freezing out to prevent pipes from freezing.

What I do miss is the old R-12 Freon in automobiles. Those ran COLD. You could ship frozen meat in your car by driving east to west coast and the meat would still be frozen. This new R-134a stuff is just ok.. In the summer I notice it isn't as cold as I would like just "dry".


Does anyone notice that when the CRV is up to operating temperature, the gauge is less then half? Every Toyota I have driven has had the temperature gauge at the half way point when everything is warmed up. With the CRV I notice it is just below the half way point. I wonder if they did that to allow for some extra tolerance from towing or under heavy load conditions?


Maybe the Honda's are design not to run so hot so it won't be hard on the oil? Since new cars today can run up to 10,000 miles for oil changes. I think the Subaru's are listed at 7,500 miles. Turbo charged vehicles are still at 5,000 miles I think.

I had my oil change at 5,000 miles.. now I have 8,000 miles not one drop of oil burned still at the full mark.
 

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I would be curious on what would happen when you drive it like that in the summer heat.


Does anyone notice that when the CRV is up to operating temperature, the gauge is less then half?
I won't allow this car to be driven with the foam inserted in the grille above 30F.

The gauge on most vehicles today are nothing more than glorified idiot lights. In general, anything from about 140 to 220 reads the same.

HerCR-V
 

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I just had a heater core replaced on my 2012 CRV 33,000 miles on it. The passenger vents the air was a little warm but not hot like it is now after they replaced the core. The driver vents was warm and over time got cooler and cooler. They said that theres been several come in with failed heater cores and he thought there may eventually be a recall on it because theres too many coming in with them. SO not sure if that may be the same problem with yours
 

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I just had a heater core replaced on my 2012 CRV 33,000 miles on it. The passenger vents the air was a little warm but not hot like it is now after they replaced the core. The driver vents was warm and over time got cooler and cooler. They said that theres been several come in with failed heater cores and he thought there may eventually be a recall on it because theres too many coming in with them. SO not sure if that may be the same problem with yours
butlerbulldogfan1,

I heard about the 2012s having coolant problems that plugged the heater core. I suspect it has been straightened out by now. The lead mechanic I was talking to said they had issues trying to get the air bled out of heater cores after they replaced them. They run the cars at 4000 rpm for about 15 minutes while jacking the car at all kinds of weird angles. He said they still haven't figured out how to bleed them out. :confused:

I'll be watching that stuff at every oil change. My neighbor is a heating and ac guy. I'll probably used some test strips to check the ph level. I suspect I'll replace everything with Peak/distilled water after a couple of years. For years Ford had problems with their coolant quality.

HerCR-V
 

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My wife also bought a 2014 Honda CR-V Ex-L in November. Your analysis of the heating problem is right on.
It takes forever for the heater to blow warm air. If Honda designed the heater to perform poorly they should warn the buyer " Do not use in cold climates without adequate winter clothing " We live in Saskatchewan and today the temperature was -26 C with a wind chill of -38.
 

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Hi There

I am having a similar issue with my air con in my 2013 CRV. it worked fine for a year but now it has a mind of its own! if you set it to a temp all of a sudden it will turn the blowers to full and blow cold air! If it is set to say, 22deg's and it does this, and i turn it up to 26degs it still blows cold air. the only way to stop it is to turn it onto high and it will then blow really hot. I even videoed the car doing this and an engineer saw it happen to and after having it for a week they still say there is nothing wrong.... Is anyone else having or seen this issue.....I love the car but this is driving me nuts
 

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This pipe insulation is closed cell foam. I did not open the slit, except for the small pieces around the "H". Only one of the two 1" diameter bottom pieces is visible in the picture. There is plenty of room for air to get up into the radiators in front, and over, the bottom pieces. The open space at the bottom right needs to be there for the engine's air intake. The top pieces are 1/2" diameter pieces.

This foam cost less than $4 and took less than 5 minutes to install. We will have to watch them at the car wash.

It's -18 today and just received a call from my wife, who is out running errands, and she is lovin' the performance of the heater and the car's gauge is in the normal operating position.

View attachment 15025

HerCR-V
I am looking at the photo and trying to make out the set up for the lower three holes. Any chance of a better photo to see how this is set up? I got a 2013 CRV last year at the ending of winter and all seems well. But this winter i am putting it through it's paces with single digits and the car is cold. I had the core flushed but no improvements. My mechanic is going to look at the heater box to make sure the actuators are doing what they should be doing. I am desperate to try any thing to get more heat in the cabin.
 

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Both heater hoses (under the hood, between the motor and firewall) should get very hot to the touch. If not, possible plugged heater core. If the heater hoses are hot, possible blend door problem under the dash. Is a/c off?......if the compressor is on, it’s likely the electric radiator fans are on as well. Selector set to recirculate?
 

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Both heater hoses (under the hood, between the motor and firewall) should get very hot to the touch. If not, possible plugged heater core. If the heater hoses are hot, possible blend door problem under the dash. Is a/c off?......if the compressor is on, it’s likely the electric radiator fans are on as well. Selector set to recirculate?
When I got home from work today I checked the hoses, the supply side was Very HOT but the return was warm. The AC is off and the selector setting is not on recirculate. I had the car in the shop on Fri to have the core flushed and there was no noticeable debris from the core and the mechanic indicated that there was good flow through the core pointing to a clean(unclogged) core. But then again the hose temp indicate differently. Could it be partially blocked?
My other issue beside just warm air(even at High setting) is on the driver's side the left vent is warm but the right side is dead cold, on the passenger side both the vents have warm air. My mechanic is suggesting possibly the actuator or one of the doors on the heater box could be malfunctioning. any suggestion?
I know the dash has to be torn out to get to the core and or the heater box and I am at the point of just getting it done so I could enjoy my CRV in comfort. The only problem is I want to pin point the exact problem so I don't spend money needlessly.
 

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Try recirculate......it’s easier to re-heat warmer, inside the cabin, air than it is to heat colder outside air.

Sometimes debris in a heater core can’t be removed regardless of how it’s flushed. If the heater is partially plugged, obviously it’s efficiency is reduced. I don’t see how the heater core can have “good flow” without both heater hoses being very hot. Seems to me both driver and passenger sides receive heat from a single heater core.........unless dual blend doors/actuators are malfunctioning. Kinda hard to pin point an exact problem in a forum. I understand “not spending needlessly“. I would think your ”mechanic” would be able to verify a properly functioning left/right blend/actuator without removing the dash. If all of that is good, then unfortunately the dash may need to be removed.

Again, I don’t see how both heater hoses can not be hot AND the heater core have “good flow”.🤷‍♂️ Hope you get the problem resolved.
 
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