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Discussion Starter #1
Found an interesting brake problem today. The left rear brake has been dragging enough to over heat the rotor and cause it to crack in 3 places. The caliper piston is NOT stuck and moves freely. No dirt behind the boot. The brake pads move freely in their fixture. The mounting pins are well greased and move freely. This leads me to believe the problem is not mechanical but is hydraulic. Is there a know problem with traction control causing ware on one corner?

Thanks for your responses
Richard
 

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Was anything done before this happen? How about the parking brake is it not stuck? Just wanted to check are the pins lube with silicone grease? Have you tried to bleed the fluid on this Caliper? How many miles on the odometer? You could have a bad brake hose. Check out if the brake hose have the same part number on the right if so you can swap it. If the problem moved with it your hose is bad. I hope this helps. Let me know.
 

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What he said. If the brakes were functioning correctly then the only thing left is the wheel bearing. I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Was anything done before this happen? How about the parking brake is it not stuck? Just wanted to check are the pins lube with silicone grease? Have you tried to bleed the fluid on this Caliper? How many miles on the odometer? You could have a bad brake hose. Check out if the brake hose have the same part number on the right if so you can swap it. If the problem moved with it your hose is bad. I hope this helps. Let me know.
Other than scheduled maintenance and tire balancing, no major mechanical repairs have been done. 35,000 miles on the clock. Another 27,000 on the chassis from towing behind the motor home. The heat is definitely from the disc brake area, not the parking brake. We are not in the habit of using the parking brake. As previously noted, the pins are clean and lubed.
Ah! bad hose. I didn't think of that. THANKS! I'll swap them, if possible.

Richard
 

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Despite the fact that you said the calipers are free and have no dirt, you cannot have looked BEHIND the piston.

So yeah, if the brake hose doesn't fix the issue, I'd go for new rear calipers. (I've been 'bit' by the same thing...)
 

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Yeap I wouldn't assume the brake hose either. Though very possible, the caliper can be free when cool and locking up when hot. Just had to replace one doing just that. Having to use the brakes on a down hill heated them enough the Piston locked up. After a few hours it freed up and was fine for a week then did it again. Replaced the caliper.

Wheel bearing is something I would check as well. Make sure it is not loose or dragging, can cause rub that will overheat things.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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The guys are right, it could also be the square seal. If the hose has been swapped & it's still sticking when hot. It'll be the square seal.
 

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By the way, I've had excellent results with the braided steel brake hoses, replaced as a set. They last pretty much forever, and give a more solid feel to the pedal. I plan to do this on my '07 next brake job, as, while my brakes are fresh and up to snuff, the pedal fell is somewhat squishy soft to me, and I hate that. I prefer a lighter, firmer, more precision feeling pedal action.
 

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Richard, what motorhome do you tow the Honda with? Do you have a Toad braking system installed on the Honda? In another forum, a member had a similar problem to yours and it turned out to be a faulty valve in the "break away" system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Despite the fact that you said the calipers are free and have no dirt, you cannot have looked BEHIND the piston.

So yeah, if the brake hose doesn't fix the issue, I'd go for new rear calipers. (I've been 'bit' by the same thing...)
After noticing the over heated rotor I purchased pads and caliper rebuild kits. So, yes I have looked behind the piston. In my younger years (1960-1970) I worked as a mechanic.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Richard, what motorhome do you tow the Honda with? Do you have a Toad braking system installed on the Honda? In another forum, a member had a similar problem to yours and it turned out to be a faulty valve in the "break away" system.
I tow the Honda with a 95 Bounder F53. Brake Buddy auxiliary braking system, with remote indicator on the dash. No brake away valve. Has brake away cable and switch.

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Richard, what motorhome do you tow the Honda with? Do you have a Toad braking system installed on the Honda? In another forum, a member had a similar problem to yours and it turned out to be a faulty valve in the "break away" system.
I tow the Honda with a 95 Bounder F53 460/528 stroker engine. Brake Buddy auxiliary braking system, with remote indicator on the dash. No brake away valve. Has brake away cable and switch.

Richard
 

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Now I'm just thinking out of the box, and food for thought.

The other motorhome owner found the toad brake system he was using was constantly putting just a small amount of pressure on the toad master cylinder causing one of the four braked wheels to touch slightly. Over the miles and miles of towing that pressure was enough to cause friction in that one wheel, heating and a damaged rotor. It took for ever to figure it out because the motorhome engine had to be running, and air pressure built up in the break away cylinder.

Since you use the Brake Buddy, you don't have the air pressure input, but a slight miss-adjustment in the BB could cause the same thing. When a person touches the car brakes, usually one wheel's brake pads/shoes will touch first, then another one then another. You don't notice the slight pressure on one wheel but it's there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks BigD

Maybe, just maybe the Brake Buddy is sliding forward and offering some pressure on the brake pedal. It now sits snug to the seat and clamps on the pedal. I'll make a fixture to hold the Brake Buddy in place and see what the next few 1,000 mile brings. Me thimks you guide me in the right direction. :banana:

Richard
 
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