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i'm not sure what bulb the 2014 crv used but if it's an H11 bulb, i'm constantly having people ask me for a pair of pigtails that match up to that bulb because they are always melting.

just in case the Dorman part number is 84783
 

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1997 185 2002 EX 2017 EX-L AWD
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60K on the car, 4 months of riding is a lot. unless I read that wrong. spare kit and a set not from the same supplier and shop, most likely the product is using a thinner wire. I can recall, if one goes, the other is ready to go. So I save the other bulb and replace both. have a spare as a backup?
 
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Everything in Moderation
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I do the same as Fishy:

To maintain equal brightness on both sides, I buy the 2-pack bulbs and change BOTH so that there is no difference side-to-side.

I'm so OCD I do the same with tail light bulbs, LOL. o_O
It's not easy being me.

😊😊
 

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I do that so I avoid issues. thanks, goto remind my neighbor his tail light right is out
 

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Discussion Starter #25
60K on the car, 4 months of riding is a lot. unless I read that wrong. spare kit and a set not from the same supplier and shop, most likely the product is using a thinner wire. I can recall, if one goes, the other is ready to go. So I save the other bulb and replace both. have a spare as a backup?
she has put 60K on the car since 2014 not in 4 months. I bought it for her new she has put every mile on the car. she replaces the bulbs in sets as I have told her both need to be replaced. so as a set they are exactly the same on both sides. said it is always the driver's side first then the passenger side soon afterwards. High beams have not burned out nor have the other front facing lights or tail lights. just low beams. Not sure what you mean by 4 months of riding? 60,000 miles on 2014 is pretty low miles in my book.
 

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the mileage I thought she put 60K on in 4 months. now I understood, sorry for not understanding? For the bulb, the driver goes first, hmm? these are what 26awg wiring? voltage is fluctuating? an alternator that points to, like said bouncing of the car. and incorrect install. other than that, no moisture in the headlight? covered it all.
 

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I feel your pain being so far away. My son and his wife just had a baby in June, our first grandchild, they are 100 miles away, an easy drive. They don't want us to visit until the Covid mess is over. My wife cries randomly. Pain.

There have been many suggestions here.. some better than others. We don't know the exact answer. Sounds like you and your daughter are doing everything right. Perhaps it's time for your daughter to take it to a repair facility?
 

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does she drive with the switch to 'auto'? she parks in a garage at night? what is her delay setting for when the car is off? filament bulbs don't like to be switched on and off.

she can try to switch the lights on/off manually for awhile.

have the alternator checked. and use papertowels to handle bulbs when replacing.

fwiw, i have a '14 civic, purchased new. i have 138K miles on it, and currently using my 3rd set of headlights - OEM, 2nd set was phillips crystal vision as is the current 3rd set. long night driving has been the norm for this car in its life.

definitely something going on with her electrical system.
 

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Yes. Halogen bulbs are very sensitive to different 12 volt current flow changes and even with steady current flow, they don't last very long. And, they don't like water exposure / water splashing conditions either....

As a suggestion, replace halogen bulbs with LEDs. If wondering, I replaced factory halogen bulbs with H4/9003 LEDs on my wife's 2014 CRV and its light output is much better. Especially after their aim is adjusted on driver's side (due to natural crown shape of many paved roads). And best of all, many LEDs lights come with "built in Intelligent module" that can handle current flow changes / self adjustment much better. Some folks call these anti-flicker modules....

For more details, search Amazon for "Hikari LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion kit / New Gen - with adjustable beam").

Note: For even better front lighting improvements, simply convert factory H11 FOG Lights with direct wiring (using in-line fuse) and convert them to DRL (using H11 LED bulbs). This change also allows one to use their FOG light with High Beams usage - which creates both short distance and long distance front lighting improvements as well. See below for picture. And yes, this simple change is easy DIY install... My wife loves this upgrade on her 2014 AWD CRV.

FOG Light mod - very simple method.jpg
 

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A few years ago I replaced my low beam bulbs with Zenon HID bulbs.
It was "VDP-6k-9006 9006 6000k Volt Digital+ Xenon HID Conversion Kit, $99.99" from XenonDepot | Specializing in HID & LED Headlights for Trucks. They lasted until last year when the car got totalled. We have a Touring now, which came with LED headlights,

Oooh, many years ago, 2011. These days I would go with a good quality LED replacement. Same outfit sells a pair of LED bulbs for $39. Look on Amazon, they list LED bulbs from $11 to $80. Maybe take a chance on these, $11 for the pair Amazon.com: 4WDKING 9006 LED Headlight Bulbs - Fanless Super Bright Low Beam Fog Light 60W 8000LM 6500K Cool White High Beam HB4 Conversion Kit with T10 x2: Automotive About the same price as halogen bulbs.
 

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My daughter has a 2014 CRV she bought new and she keeps having issues with her low beams burning out. She lives 8 hours away so I can not run and check to see what the problem is. She says she is careful to not touch the bulbs when installing them and wears medical gloves so she says she is certain she is not transferring oils to the bulbs. She said first the driver side goes and then the passenger. high beams and amber lights are working. Any ideas. her car has low miles around 60,000 miles. this is at least the 3rd set she has gone thru. thanks.
@jadm

Their are a lot of ideas bouncing around here... a good thing, but let's start with the basics of bulb failure.

Their are 3 failure modes for incandescent bulbs (assuming we're talking about standard replacement bulbs):

1) Fractured filament where there's a clean break = Vibration damage.

2) The filament ends are "balled" at the break = Over voltage (under voltage will not cause a premature failure.. see "trivia" below).

3) The globe is opaque, dark colored like "filled with smoke" = loss of gas seal.

Once we have some photos of the failed bulbs, we can then start down the path of diagnosing the root cause. Please post up some when you get the chance.

Also does a bulb on one side last longer than the other?

Trivia: A hot filament (i.e. DRL) will tend to be more immune to vibration failure. Why? A warm filament is more flexible therefore they're less brittle. It's why way way back in the day off road racer (think Baja 1000) use to run the light all the time, night and day when they were incandescent fixtures. It was one easy way they made the filaments immune to vibration failure.

Cheers!
 

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My daughter has a 2014 CRV she bought new and she keeps having issues with her low beams burning out. She lives 8 hours away so I can not run and check to see what the problem is. She says she is careful to not touch the bulbs when installing them and wears medical gloves so she says she is certain she is not transferring oils to the bulbs. She said first the driver side goes and then the passenger. high beams and amber lights are working. Any ideas. her car has low miles around 60,000 miles. this is at least the 3rd set she has gone thru. thanks.
The daytime running lights may contribute to the lights burning out in a short period of time. The last set I bought for a 2011 CRV suggested disabling the daytime running lights feature, so it may be a known factor in the life expectancy of the bulbs. Even that should not be an excusable reason for them burning out prematurely. You can try pulling the daytime running light fuse to see if that makes a difference, or switch to a different bulb manufacturer.
 

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Years ago, Osrams were the most reliable bulb.

Another factor might be the age of the battery...a weak battery has been proven to 'spike' the circuit when one bulb burns out, reducing the life of the other side.
Agree, the basic cheapest halogens last me around five years. Those fancy hi output high priced units die after a few months.
 

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I put higher-output bulbs into my '09 when I was on a road trip a couple of years ago (I think that was 2018) and they still work fine. I like the LED option except that there is often no way to incorporate the DRL into the bulb without modifications (like an external module). In my '09 at least, I think the DRL is 7 volts on the high beam.

Honda's bulbs will be no different from aftermarket bulbs--Honda does not manufacture bulbs. They buy them in bulk from one of the major suppliers, at whichever source provides the best price. So it's the luck of the draw as to how long they'll last, just like any other bulb.
 

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I put higher-output bulbs into my '09 when I was on a road trip a couple of years ago (I think that was 2018) and they still work fine. I like the LED option except that there is often no way to incorporate the DRL into the bulb without modifications (like an external module). In my '09 at least, I think the DRL is 7 volts on the high beam.

Honda's bulbs will be no different from aftermarket bulbs--Honda does not manufacture bulbs. They buy them in bulk from one of the major suppliers, at whichever source provides the best price. So it's the luck of the draw as to how long they'll last, just like any other bulb.
Correct, Honda bulbs is only a suggestion to try if in fact the OP's daughter has high output bulbs that are burning out too frequently.

Hopefully, some of our great ideas/suggestions have/will help the OP/daughter.
:D
 
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I put higher-output bulbs into my '09 when I was on a road trip a couple of years ago (I think that was 2018) and they still work fine. I like the LED option except that there is often no way to incorporate the DRL into the bulb without modifications (like an external module). In my '09 at least, I think the DRL is 7 volts on the high beam.

Honda's bulbs will be no different from aftermarket bulbs--Honda does not manufacture bulbs. They buy them in bulk from one of the major suppliers, at whichever source provides the best price. So it's the luck of the draw as to how long they'll last, just like any other bulb.
I have these in both high and low beams for about a year now. They are plug and play. They work great with the DRL high beams and are way more noticeable than the church-candel-like halogens that the car came with.
I am sure there are better/newer bulbs out there but these work well with the housing and the DRL high beams-I decided not to experiment with others for as long as these hold up for.


these could be better:
 
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