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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2014 CRV without rails. I'm thinking about buying a kayak so obviously I'll need to transport it. Looking online it seems like with parts and install getting factory rails and crossbars would be about $1000. I've looked at Yakima and I'm a little confused about what I would need since some parts are sold separately, but it looks like it might be close to $500. Obviously half price is better. Also curious about benefit of getting the specific kayak carrier vs just cross bars. Any thoughts or words of wisdom?
 

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This page shows you which Yakima products fit on your CRV, including what parts you need for a given rack setup. When you get to the "Fit" selection drop down, pick one of the "Naked Roof" options since you don't have the rails.

FYI, the Q Tower rack has a 125 Lbs. load limit. The comparable Thule rack has a 165 Lbs. limit. The Thule Buyers Guide is here.
 

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Here's a parts dealer that can give you original Honda OEM rails, bars, and kayak rack for about $665:

http://www.hondapartworld.com/cr-v-accessories/cr-v-exterior?page=2

I have the OEM kayak rack and find that it works well for my 16 foot sea kayak.

I used to have a Chevy Blazer which had raised roof rails (instead of rails flush to the roof like Honda's). I could strap my kayak directly to the rack, since I could pass my web straps under the rails. Can't do that with my CR-V and Honda rack, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Looks like the Honda rails are a bit more difficult to install (and requires tools I don't have). Leaning toward Thule (cheaper and easier install). Considering that many people use aftermarket racks I'm assuming that they are just a reliable as factory. It seems much more stable to have everything screwed in but I see people with aftermarket on the road and their stuff isn't flying all over the interstate.
 

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I've just installed Thule wing bars for the purpose of carrying a kayak. The install wasn't so hard. The only bits that could go wrong are removing the fixed point covers and stripping the paint off the fixed bolts. The Thule spanner wasn't really up for the job so I used a bigger spanner on the pint removal tool. Just be careful to make sure you don't cross thread it on the bolts and you should be fine.

The wing bars make no discernible noise and don't seem to make any difference to fuel consumption. The CRV is a lot higher than other cars I've had and it is a bit of a struggle to get the kayak on and off. I've even bought a folding step to help. Also you have to lean quite a way in to fasten straps the bars are also very close together and the kayak isn't very stable. I have a white water kayak which is quite short and has grab handles to pass the straps through which makes it more stable but the straps need to be pulled really tight so as not to slide on the flat wing bars.

I am considering replacing the wing bars with Thule slide bars so they I won't have to reach as far over the car to load and fasten. Also I think I'll get a couple of J kayak carriers. Thule make a rack that drops down to make loading easier called the Hullavator but it's costly and apparently not available in Europe due to safety restrictions.

Digested read Thule wing bars aren't very good for transporting kayaks, get something else.
 

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A thule rack will take you about an hour to install. The hardest part is identifying all the parts.

I've carried my kayaks on standard Thule square bars for the last 20 years with no problems. I bought wing bars a) so that I could leave them on all the time and not use too much fuel and b) because I thought they'd look cool. I'd still use them but it's awkward to reach up and sideways as the CRV has a higher roof than I've had before. I'm going to use slide bars from now on.
 
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