There’s a tiny model name in the corner of the head unit. Mine’s 2VN3 (Alpine).
Lol mrtn, I'd suggest re-wording that for accuracy... something like:Once you discover podcasts you'll never worry about radio signals again.
I decided to drill the holes before ever installing it, due to comments other buyers made about very hot units. It makes sense because taking it apart (which is very simple), you realize it's completely shut, no air at all. I used some drill bits but found subsequently it would have been much easier to use a 'step bit'. They are made for sheet metal and would do a much better / easier job (and better looking).I may give it a try in a couple months when I have more time. I have a used 2016 LX with basic radio/cd and don't like the FM sound quality but don't want to spend the money for a new aftermarket headunit.
Does your unit get that hot requiring drilling all those holes?
What do you use to tap into the two #10,#28 fuses?
thanks for posting.
Thanks for posting the links for the antenna adapter and fuse taps. It will save me many hours searching.I decided to drill the holes before ever installing it, due to comments other buyers made about very hot units. It makes sense because taking it apart (which is very simple), you realize it's completely shut, no air at all. I used some drill bits but found subsequently it would have been much easier to use a 'step bit'. They are made for sheet metal and would do a much better / easier job (and better looking).
The 'add a circuit' thing I got on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BU59QA8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll also find that where these plug into the fuse box, there's a 'common ground' bolt there. That's what I used for the ground connection.
They work perfect. I'd get a soldering tool also if you don't have one to be sure you have solid connections. And heat shrink.
Was in the same boat as you, just didn't want to spend the enormous sum for a new head unit with HD-R, then have loss of some of the basic functionality, etc.
It's worked out very well. The only 'adapter' needed is for the antenna (I got the one by Metra). It's needed because the Honda antenna plug is proprietary (it includes not just the antenna wire but also a low voltage power wire in it's harness). So the adapter 'splits' these wires out, and results in your having a basic antenna hookup that can be used for the HD-R tuner (the 2 blue wires have to be soldered together so the oem antenna still gets the power).
This is the adapter on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003R7KYUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm ecstatic with it honestly. Having HD-R is astounding compared to regular FM. The reception difference alone is massive. I can only speak for where I live of course, but it's much much better. Here's a website that can give HD-R broadcasts in areas by zip: https://hdradio.com/stations/
For me, because I am not changing channels constantly, I installed the 'controller' against the far panel inside the glovebox. So it faces me in the drivers seat (when I open it). That way I can open the box and use the remote control (from the drivers seat) for the occasional channel change. So the remote can actually be handy.
Good luck with it. Cheers
No worries, glad to help. This is the ebay seller I bought from: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Directed-E...rentrq:a71aca8716c0a4e883b1d7f2fffff71c|iid:1Thanks for posting the links for the antenna adapter and fuse taps. It will save me many hours searching.
Now to search Ebay for the radio unit.
Also, thanks for taking the extra time to post a comprehensive summary of your installation with photos and explaining why you chose this HD-R unit. It helps others, like me, understand if your solution will fit their needs or not.
So I guess I'm about half way there. Made some mods (according to comments on Amazon) that are 'shortcomings to this specific device. The first one was to ground the rca output jacks (seems to be a design flaw all units had). To do that, soldered in a piece of 24ga wire between the input ground pin and a common rca ground pin. The 2nd, because the units are said to get quite hot, was to drill holes top, bottom, sides. It doesn't look new anymore, but no one see's it
Also, have removed the kick panel and getting ready to wire it up, have the harness all set. Removed the vents next to the H.U. but not the unit itself just yet. Also have the antenna adapter. It has the male input on one end and the female on the other, so just unplug from HU and insert in this, then insert adapter end into HU. That way just the antenna is split out and can go into the new module.
Decided to mount it in the glove box. The module itself is about 5" x 4" x 1". it's a bit large to put under the dash somewhere. And in the glove box, it will be easy access if needed. Also, the lcd display / control will go in the glove box. I don't change stations a lot, usually on only one, so in the box should be fine for me.
These are some pics of the mods I made. If the thing still gets hot I'll put a 50mm brush-less fan on the top Have already identified the fuses to use for 'add a circuit', the #10, unoccupied if you don't have trailer harness, is an 'always on'. And #28, washer, I'll use for 'ignition'. Common grnd is right there behind the kick plate. It's a pretty fun project, not without it's issues though.
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Hi, good questions. The reason for the soldered wire is because the rca outputs aren't grounded well. That was noted by people who used this originally and there are 2 options: 1) wrap a wire (multiple times) around the 2 rca outs, and then ground it, or 2) solder the wire as I did.So, if i May ask, why did you have to solder wires to the inside of the circuitry ? And if I want the box to turn off when I shut the ignition off, what method do I want to use ? Did you have to install a fan onto the case ?
Hi, good questions. The reason for the soldered wire is because the rca outputs aren't grounded well. That was noted by people who used this originally and there are 2 options: 1) wrap a wire (multiple times) around the 2 rca outs, and then ground it, or 2) solder the wire as I did.
It's important to understand though, there are 2 ways to get the sound to your Head Unit; 1) obviously, the just discussed rca outputs (into an aux jack), or just use the built in FM (over the wire) modulation. So, if you plan on using the 2nd option, wiring the rca outputs to ground isn't necessary.
As wired (by the directions), the box shuts off when ignition is off. There is a feed to it that is 'always on', but that wire is just to keep the pre-sets in memory, it uses like no noticeable power.
A fan? no, if you drill the holes like I did, it does not warm up at all. I thought I might need a fan initially, with prior reviews indicating it got really hot. But, without the holes, it's basically a completely closed system, absolutely zero air flow, no dissipation of the heat whatsoever. So, with the holes though, it doesn't warm up at all, it's ideal.
Here's a few pics I've been meaning to take, I put everything in the glove box with that 3m pronged tape connection type and it could be completely removed if desired, thus no trace of the install. Also, leave enough loose wire above the glove box, so it can be lowered down, then unplug the plugs and it can be lowered all the way for a new cabin filter if needed.
I'll tell you this, every time I drive the vehicle, I get a smile on my face with how happy I am having done this and how great the radio sounds.
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And boy did I ever look for one! Even bought one I thought I could just plug in the back of the Head Unit. But no, sadly. Even pulled out the head unit to see all the various connectors. There are many possible options, use the XM radio plug etc etc. But you'd loose xm, or use the cd changer plug if you have one... It seemed every possible plug (using the pin out website) also had other things plugged in, and you'd then lose that functionality.Oh...and how did you get the RCA connectors into the radio sytem ? Is there a harness junction that you bought for that ?
Yes, that's exactly what people said was the problem. And those that wrapped a wire around them and grounded it said it went away. One person did the wire solder thing and I decided to do the same, just in case I wanted to use the rca jacks. Glad I did now.So were the soldered wires necessary to prevent a 'humming or static'y' sound ?