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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The green headlights indicator is ALWAYS on, even when my headlights are turned to off. This makes the car beep when I turn it off and open the door. How do I reset or replace the fuse? The headlight indicator? Help!!!!

I just purchased this car used (of course).
Thanks for the ideas!!!
 

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can you start the engine if you leave the fob outside of the car,possibly another fob inside the car
 

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Took me time to learn the keyless system and warning on my 16.
Mistakes I made to upset it include, car not in park, fob in car, car not fully off.

Download the owners manual from Honda's site. It's very helpful.
 

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check that all your bulbs or lights are working front and back. It might be that way to tell u a light is out
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Took me time to learn the keyless system and warning on my 16.
Mistakes I made to upset it include, car not in park, fob in car, car not fully off.

Download the owners manual from Honda's site. It's very helpful.
I've read the owners manual. Even the techs at the Honda dealer don't know. I'm ordering a new relay and going to put it in to see if it makes a difference. But it might be the actual physical switch on the stalk, though the lights do turn on and off when I twist it. (though the indicator on the dash is always lit green)
 

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The green headlights indicator is ALWAYS on, even when my headlights are turned to off. This makes the car beep when I turn it off and open the door. How do I reset or replace the fuse? The headlight indicator? Help!!!!

I just purchased this car used (of course).
Thanks for the ideas!!!
Hello,

Let me give a brief and simplistic explanation of how the circuit works, and some ideas on how to help your dealership diagnose the problem in order to isolate it to the correct component to replace.

How the circuit works:

In essence the combination light/turn signal switch signals or "tells" the computer that is built into Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box (UDFB) what you want (OFF, PARK, ON, FLASH, etc.).

This computer called the "MICU", then does all the magic with the lights, and in turn tells another computer built into the gauges what the headlight status is and then the gauge computer controls the indicator you see. All the communications between these two computers takes place over a digital communications network called BCAN.

There are many other computers on the BCAN as well, but these are the main players for this issue.

If the MICU in the UDFB detects you have left the headlight switch ON when exiting the vehicle (NOT Auto), it will "remind you" with a chime.

How to troubleshoot:

Assuming the lights are truly OFF (and there is no low voltage backfeed on the bulb circuit like a poor centralized ground), have the technician connect the scan tool (I-HDS) and verify there are no body electrical codes. If there are and any returns after clearing them, troubleshoot these first.

Next, have the technician go to the body electrical section of the scan tool and look at the headlight switch input commands. Are any of them indicating ON when the switch if OFF? If YES, troubleshoot this next.

If all ok this far, go to the body electrical> gauge section and look at the headlight indicator command. Does it say ON with the headlights OFF? If yes, this means the MICU in the UDFB is commanding it ON, and the problem is narrowing down to the MICU.

Next, have the tech remove the battery cables and hold them together for at least 2 minutes, then reinstall them to see if this cures the issue. Keep in mind the MICU is a computer and sometimes "resetting" them will fix a problem.

If at this point you're still having the issue, it appears the MICU is bad and will need to be replaced, meaning the whole UDFB since the MICU is built into it. Be sure to check for water leaks on to the UDFB and repair any found before replacing it.

This is a meant to be a general troubleshooting approach for this problem. Obviously I don't have direct access to your vehicle, but this should get them going in the right direction. If these steps lead to the MICU (or just in general), you can always encourage the technician to reach out there technical support line (Tech Line) for any additional steps they might suggest or history they have seen.

I've attached the three main parts of the system I've just described for a reference.

I hope this helps,

Cheers!

SmartSelect_20191122-005802_Chrome.jpg


SmartSelect_20191122-005723_Chrome.jpg


SmartSelect_20191122-005647_Chrome.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
holy smokes -
you know your stuff.
I was hoping that there would be a fix that I could do myself. I'm going to try and put a new relay in,
unless you think that's a fruitless idea.

I really appreciate your thoroughness, though.
Not sure it's worth spending a ton of money on at the deal, since it's out of warranty.
Do you think there's any problem with leaving it? The lights are on after I turn the car off,
but then turns off in around 15 seconds or so.



Hello,

Let me give a brief and simplistic explanation of how the circuit works, and some ideas on how to help your dealership diagnose the problem in order to isolate it to the correct component to replace.

How the circuit works:

In essence the combination light/turn signal switch signals or "tells" the computer that is built into Under Dash Fuse/Relay Box (UDFB) what you want (OFF, PARK, ON, FLASH, etc.).

This computer called the "MICU", then does all the magic with the lights, and in turn tells another computer built into the gauges what the headlight status is and then the gauge computer controls the indicator you see. All the communications between these two computers takes place over a digital communications network called BCAN.

There are many other computers on the BCAN as well, but these are the main players for this issue.

If the MICU in the UDFB detects you have left the headlight switch ON when exiting the vehicle (NOT Auto), it will "remind you" with a chime.

How to troubleshoot:

Assuming the lights are truly OFF (and there is no low voltage backfeed on the bulb circuit like a poor centralized ground), have the technician connect the scan tool (I-HDS) and verify there are no body electrical codes. If there are and any returns after clearing them, troubleshoot these first.

Next, have the technician go to the body electrical section of the scan tool and look at the headlight switch input commands. Are any of them indicating ON when the switch if OFF? If YES, troubleshoot this next.

If all ok this far, go to the body electrical> gauge section and look at the headlight indicator command. Does it say ON with the headlights OFF? If yes, this means the MICU in the UDFB is commanding it ON, and the problem is narrowing down to the MICU.

Next, have the tech remove the battery cables and hold them together for at least 2 minutes, then reinstall them to see if this cures the issue. Keep in mind the MICU is a computer and sometimes "resetting" them will fix a problem.

If at this point you're still having the issue, it appears the MICU is bad and will need to be replaced, meaning the whole UDFB since the MICU is built into it. Be sure to check for water leaks on to the UDFB and repair any found before replacing it.

This is a meant to be a general troubleshooting approach for this problem. Obviously I don't have direct access to your vehicle, but this should get them going in the right direction. If these steps lead to the MICU (or just in general), you can always encourage the technician to reach out there technical support line (Tech Line) for any additional steps they might suggest or history they have seen.

I've attached the three main parts of the system I've just described for a reference.

I hope this helps,

Cheers!

View attachment 136343

View attachment 136344

View attachment 136345
[/QUOTE]
 

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Hello,

IMO replacing the relay box is pointless. The relay in this circuit simply supplies the headlights power when the MICU commands it (by grounding the BLUE wire in the attached diagram). There is no detection circuit between the relay box and the actual headlights, so the reality is the MICU doesn't even know if there's power actually flowing to the lights, it was designed under the premise it just is (cost down on a circuit with a low probability of failure).

I would try at least disconnecting your battery cables and hold both leads together for a few minutes (or longer) in hopes this will "reset" the MICU in the UDFB (small capacitors are usually used on the printed circuit board [PCB] to maintain the non-volatile memory when the key is OFF or if the battery is disconnected).

Holding them together will help these "Caps" to discharge, allowing the MICU to clear non-volatile memory so the embedded OS would need to reload.

If that doesn't work, I'd save the money and use it to buy holiday gifts and think of your vehicle as having some character, but no it'll be fine 👍🏼

Cheers!

SmartSelect_20191127-185913_Chrome.jpg
 
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