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We got our 2015 CR-V Touring in Feb 2015. It's now Dec and we've only put 4500 miles on it and the oil maintenance minder says 50% oil life remaining. The rate that we drive this CR-V would extrapolate to 18-20 months before the maintenance minder says change it.

Although we get our first 6 oil changes done by the dealer as a buyer's perk, I'm curious about 2 things - both of which I've gotten conflicting info from the owner's manual, Honda's help chat and the dealer's service advisors.

1) when should this first (and subsequent) oil changes occur? when the maintenance minder says do it? or when a certain mileage is obtained? or at a certain time period, like 1 year?

2) what type of 0W-20 oil comes with the CR-V from the factory? is it regular or synthetic? will the same type be used in the first and later oil changes?
 

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*1: If a message SERVICE does not appear more than 12 months after the display is reset, change the engine oil every year.

This of course assumes you are reading your Owners Manual/Owners Guide
 

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thanks for the quick response - and i had missed that little note in the manual. however, it appears to pertain to after the first oil change based on the phrase "...after the display is reset". does this also apply to the very first oil change? the one that's supposed to have all the extra additives that Honda puts in from the factory?

also, do you know about the type of oil already in there? regular or synthetic?
 

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thanks for the quick response - and i had missed that little note in the manual. however, it appears to pertain to after the first oil change based on the phrase "...after the display is reset". does this also apply to the very first oil change? the one that's supposed to have all the extra additives that Honda puts in from the factory?

also, do you know about the type of oil already in there? regular or synthetic?
My interpretation is that it's one year, period, but otoh, oil has no clue about its age especially in this era of quality oils and well built engines with such tight tolerances.

I choose to believe what I've read in many places that Honda's factory fill has all kinds of goodies in it. When I do my first change, I'll probably get it analyzed just to partially satisfy my curiosity to see what additives it has.

It's highly likely that the factory fill is at least "semi-synthetic", and Honda's not going to tell us. That being said, unlike some countries in Europe, notably Germany, any oil blender can label their brew at least "semi" synthetic. Virutally any reasonably priced synthetic will be a combination of different grades of synthetic base stocks, some percentage of PAO, maybe esters and even some percentage of petroleum oil, along with various detergents, anti-wear additives and viscosity index improvers. Read the MSDS for Mobil 1 EP and you'll see the term "SEVERELY HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC DISTILLATE" (i.e., petroleum oil see: http://hazmap.nlm.nih.gov/category-details?table=copytblagents&id=10697)).

Any name-brand 0W-20 that meets API specs will be just fine; having said that, I'll probably spoil ours with either Mobil1 or Valvoline Synpower as a five quart container can be bought for less than $30 and I'm still a recovering 3000 mile oil change addict.

The two Honda dealers I've bought parts from almost always "lead" with their semi-syn.
Kevin
 

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John
The only added "goody" from Honda's 0w20 factory fill is high molybdenum.

Here is a 2014 Honda 0w20 UOA proving the point:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3337047/2014_Honda_Accord_Factory_Fill

All other additives are those found in typical UOA's.

You can replace your factory fill oil with another high moly oil if you so desire, though the highest you will commonly find off the shelf is in the 100 to 300 ppm range, not 592 ppm.
The factory fill is likely ordinary Honda synthetic blend motor oil. The molybdenum comes from assembly lube pastes that are applied to surfaces like camshafts to prevent scuffing during initial operation. The molybdenum is washed into the motor oil quickly and continues to circulate until the oil is changed. This seems to be beneficial to break-in (hence Honda's plea to leave the factory fill in for a normal oil change interval), but if it was important long-term I think you'd see more of it in Honda's motor oil.
 

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Any API SN-rated 0W-20 oil will work perfectly fine in your CR-V.

No need to pay the huge premium for the "Honda-brand" oil, which is actually made by ConocoPhilips (the same people who make the oil for Kendall, Motorcraft, 76, and TropArctic).

Oil should be changed when the MM gets down to 10-15%. If you prefer to go by mileage, every 7,500 miles is a good guideline to go by if using synthetic oil.

I personally use Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 in the V. You can buy it in 5-quart jugs for $25 from Wal-Mart.

I went for AFE over standard Mobil 1 due to the higher PAO content found in AFE, meaning it is closer to a "true" full synthetic oil as opposed to a highly refined Group III oil.


As for the free dealer oil changes, you can never be 100% sure of what oil they are using. Most dealers get bulk oil in 55-gallon drums and it's very hard for you (the customer) to verify exactly what is in the drums. Any reputable dealer *should* probably be using at least a 0W-20 synthetic blend in your CR-V, but that can vary by dealer. I've heard stories of dealers putting 5W-30 into all the cars that come in regardless of what they are specified for.
 

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Lots of good posts already here on this subject. Here's my 2 cents worth....
1) Use a full synthetic quality oil that meets specs per owners manual, i.e. 0W20.
2) Change the oil filter each time with a quality filter.
3) Change the oil when the MM reaches 10-15% or every 6 months whichever comes first regardless of the MM %.

Check the oil (dipstick) weekly so you can monitor the level and note changes. Always check the level after it has been changed by anyone other than you. Then check again after you have driven it the next day. Always check the oil after the engine is in a cold condition, usually overnight or after it has sat for an hour or more.

If you park in a garage or hard pavement, be sure to observe for any liquid puddles beneath the vehicle. Learn what the different liquids look like and may smell like. Under normal conditions, motor oil is usually darker and thick with a strong petroleum odor; transmission fluid is usually a reddish color and will have a slightly sweet smell, brake fluid is clear with its own peculiar odor, power steering fluid (for CR-V's before '15) is also clear, and anti-freeze will be usually green in color and have a sickening sweet odor. In air-conditioning season you will find puddles of water beneath the drain tube area. Anytime you find a puddle under your vehicle it would be a good idea to check and see what the liquid is. When your vehicle is operating as it should be there will not be any liquids beneath it with the exception of water from the AC operation.

Cheers,
jimbob15
 

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Lots of good posts already here on this subject. Here's my 2 cents worth....
1) Use a full synthetic quality oil that meets specs per owners manual, i.e. 0W20.
2) Change the oil filter each time with a quality filter.
3) Change the oil when the MM reaches 10-15% or every 6 months whichever comes first regardless of the MM %.

Check the oil (dipstick) weekly so you can monitor the level and note changes. Always check the level after it has been changed by anyone other than you. Then check again after you have driven it the next day. Always check the oil after the engine is in a cold condition, usually overnight or after it has sat for an hour or more.

If you park in a garage or hard pavement, be sure to observe for any liquid puddles beneath the vehicle. Learn what the different liquids look like and may smell like. Under normal conditions, motor oil is usually darker and thick with a strong petroleum odor; transmission fluid is usually a reddish color and will have a slightly sweet smell, brake fluid is clear with its own peculiar odor, power steering fluid (for CR-V's before '15) is also clear, and anti-freeze will be usually green in color and have a sickening sweet odor. In air-conditioning season you will find puddles of water beneath the drain tube area. Anytime you find a puddle under your vehicle it would be a good idea to check and see what the liquid is. When your vehicle is operating as it should be there will not be any liquids beneath it with the exception of water from the AC operation.

Cheers,
jimbob15
Honda's rad fluid in these is a pretty blue, but same sweet smell :)
 

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Lots of good posts already here on this subject. Here's my 2 cents worth....
1) Use a full synthetic quality oil that meets specs per owners manual, i.e. 0W20.
2) Change the oil filter each time with a quality filter.
3) Change the oil when the MM reaches 10-15% or every 6 months whichever comes first regardless of the MM %.
Why the recommendation about changing the oil every 6 months, even if the MM % is still high. Most car mfgs rec to change it by the mileage, MM, or every year, whichever occurs first?

Buffalo4
 

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Why the recommendation about changing the oil every 6 months, even if the MM % is still high. Most car mfgs rec to change it by the mileage, MM, or every year, whichever occurs first?

Buffalo4
It is the way I prefer to change it, twice a year, regardless of the MM, unless the MM is 10-15% then change it sooner. I would rather spend a few bucks and change it like that. Since I'm still a DIY the cost is not too great. I consider it as sort of an engine protection insurance. If you are comfortable changing it as you describe, go for it. I appreciate your input. Thanks!
 
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